Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
The model number of the remote is of no help.
You need the model number of the opener. It is on the opener label.
And with that model number the you can sometimes google it and find a manual.
Or find a replacement control board that you can cross reference Chamberlain model and get the manual for the Chamberlain.
But all of the models for a number of years have had the same basic features and adjustment.
The main difference is they change the remote frequency a couple of years ago, versions with standby batteries, and different control panels. And cosmetics.
Pick the one closes to yours.
http://www.chamberlain-diy.com/doityourself/pages/productfamily.aspx?famid=134
Click on it and their is a link to the manual.
There is a product called mirror mastic that is used to install mirrors on walls.
Most stores will have it in the area of the construction adhesives.
In addition to the breaker in the circuit breaker panel there should be a Disconnect by the outside unit.
That is a small box on the house next the the compressor. The wires go from it to the compressor.
The purpose is to disconnect the power when working on the compressor.
Some are just a switch and others have block that you pull out. Sometimes the block contains fuses. Sometimes the “switch” is a circuit breaker.
You did not indicate how or when the light comes back on.
It can be a bad switch. A defective light socket or loose wire connections.
Also many have a over temperature limit switch that will turn them off if the can gets too hot. If that is the problem it might be cause by some one installing more insulation over or around the fixture.
Even the metal flex vent should be the minimum length to allow installing and removing the dryer.
It has too high of pressure drop. It would only be a 2-3 ft long. The remainder of the run should be hard metal pipe.
You have the changes the code in the receivers also.
Often they are under the canopy. That is the cover at the top of the fan that is next to the ceiling.
You did not give the brand and model number for the opener. But the problem is most like a stripped gear set, loose set screw, or broken belt.
The garage door, by it self is suppose to be balanced so that it can be opened and closed easily.
The opener is should not be needed to work the door. It is only a convinence.
If after you trip the release and you can’t open or close the door then you need to get the door fixed also.
They make boxes with a screw that you can move them in and out. Designed specifically for this purpose.
Look for them at Lowes and HD. They are blue Carlon box.
Most likely the remote control uses an electronic switch that produces a chopped electrical output similar to that produced by a dimmer.
There are some CFL’s designed to work with dimmers. I have not used them, but I understand that they don’t dim that well. IE, you can only dim to about 50 to 60%.
But since this is “full on” they should work.
There are different types of ballast used within the CFL so different brands/styles may work differently.
But there is no simple way to tell which is which.
You did not indicate the model number.
But
http://www.chamberlain-diy.com/doityourself/support/faq
Then under Hand-held remotes there are links for the different types of systems.
This manual should be somewhat similar to your unit.
http://www.chamberlain-diy.com/doityourself/pdfdocs/A1773M.PDF
It does not show any such washers on the motor.
But this might be it.
2 41C4220A Gear and sprocket assembly
Complete with: Spring washer,
Thrust washer, Retaining ring
Bearing plate, Roll pins (2)
Drive gear, Worm gear
Helical gear w/retainer
GreaseThis is the replacement part.
http://www.aaaremotes.com/gearsprocask.html
You can also ask technical support.
GU7 bulbs are not common.
I was looking for some and only had the term “Twist and Lock” and no one at local lighting stores or several light bulbs supply houses.
However, once I did find online that they where GU7 base then I was able to find several online sources. But even then several said that they where special order.
So I have a problem recommending them.
If you go the line voltage bulb there are GU10 bulbs that are also MR-16, but 120 volts. Some type of base, but the spacing of the pins differ.
But in the same house with track lights with the GU7 bulbs there where many others with the more common bi-pin bulbs and sockets.
But they had a lens cover with a bracket that held it in place over the bulb and keeping them from comming loose.
It depends on the load that the header over the door needs to carry.
Now there IS A SOLUTION. You might need to put the header in between the rim joist and the ceiling joists.
That can be made to work, but it can also require LOT$ of work.
But there are many, many variables depending on the loads that this has to carry and local codes.
You will need an engineer to design this.
I have never heard of pressure treated white pine being used for any structural purposes. So I would not listen to that guy.
Generally east of the Rocky’s the standard wood is southern yellow pine, SYP.
On the west coast several different woods are used. Douglas fir is one.
I would go with the 25-50 years.
That said that are ways of building a deck that will cause it to not last that long.
The two main ones are not allowing the materials to dry. For example burrying a post in concrete. The standoff bases are much better.
And not using corrosion resistant fasteners.
As to the PVC trim.
I depends. If you are only doing some repairs and replacing like for like then it might be reused.
But if doing a whole rebuild there is a good chance that dimension will end up being slightly different and the stuff won’t fit right.
