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Here is a good place for information.
http://www.aaaremotes.com/allisterpulsar.html
And they have remotes and some parts.
And here are instructions.
http://www.aaaremotes.com/olmogadoop.html
While they don’t have your model opener manufactures often have similar features. So try looking at the different models.
You have way too much humidity.
Humidity in the house can come from roof or wall leaks, moisture from a basement crawlspace (specially with bare earth) and from humans.
Humans generate lots of moisture by breathing, cooking, bathing, and house plants.
Try running vent fans when bathing and cooking. The vent fans must discharge to the outside. Note – that many microwave “vents” just recirculate the air though a filter.
You need to verify that the fill level is not too high so that the water is continously running out the overflow tube.
And check that the end of the refill tube (samll plastic tube that goes from the fill valve to the overflow tube) is ABOVE the full level in the tank. Other wise it can cause water to be syphoned out of the tank.
I just replaced a Schlage. It orginal had 2 caps over the holes. One was missing or I would have had trouble figuring it out.
You had to look carefully with a strong light to see that the recess was a small head screw that took a #1 square drive.
Now the thread on this screw is different, but it will give you an idea of what I am talking about.
http://www.hardwareworld.com/1-6×1-58-Sd-Trim-Head-Screws-p9W7CFF.aspx
You need an Energy Rater to do an energy audit of your house.
Energy audits are not just about insulation, but also include ventalation and heating sources. Moisture control is a very important part of energy management.
They can do things like blower door test to see where air (and moisture) can move through the house to the outside (including attic).
The insulation that was done might have helped or might have hurt depending on the type, location, and how it was installed.
While you might have needed an electrical upgrade THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM HAD NOTHING TO DO WITH THE CONDENSATION PROBLEMS.
I think that a typical cost will be $300-500.
Some utility companies will provide free or reduced price energy audits.
And check with your city and state. Start with the “energy” department and if they don’t have one then the “housing department”. If you can’t find either of those then department of aging.
Cities and states all have different programs. Some just informtion. Other will do winterization. Other will pay for energy audits, etc.
Even if you don’t qualify for the programs ask if they have a list of energy auditors.
Here is another source for energy auditors.
The electric furnace, as an air conditioner is a 240 volt load.
Not a 240/120 like most stoves and dyers. And they are only mixed voltage for historic reasons. They could as well be made to work on just 240.
On a 240 load no neutral is used. So two wire cable is usually run. Tape is used to remark the white wire to any color other than while, gray, or green.
Some houses have indoor water meters with remote read outs. Sometimes they are removed when the water is shut off.
The water company might not have put that in their records or possibly it was stolen.
You titled it garage door sticking, but you never checked it to see if it was sticking.
Using the quick disconnected disconnect the opener from the door.
Then MANUALLY open and close the door. It should work smoothly and be balanced so that if you open if about 1/2 way it will stay there.
If the door is ok then run just the opener and see if works smoothly and does not bind.
After seeing that both of those are OK then reconnect the door and adjust the UP Force Limit on the opener.
GDO have a MOVEMENT limit and a FORCE limit.
Looking here;
http://www.aaaremotes.com/liftmastercompatibilitychart.html
This is the logic board that your unit uses.
http://www.aaaremotes.com/lifcirboarno1.html
Here is a link for the manual for the 700WH.
Chamberlian makes the Sear units and the functions are similar.
Look at page 20 and 21
The size of the sub-panel can be larger than the size of the main. There is no safety problem.
The main can supply any more power than the size of the breaker.
The requirement is that the main can’t be any bigger than the SAMLLEST of the sub-panel feeder wires, the sub-panel rating, and the sub-panel “main” breaker.
The only problem is that someone in the future might think that you have 125 amp service by looking at the breaker on the sub-panel. If that is a concern you can either replace the main breaker with a 100 amp one or maybe put a small lable like “panel supplied by 100 amp service”.
But if you have are having an electrican do this change out let them find the panel. There are 100’s of sizes that aren’t available at the home supply stores.
Also Cutler Hammer (Easton) makes a Retrofit Interior Kit what can replace the whole guts of the panel with new CH or BR series bus bars and breakers.
http://www.eatonelectrical.com/unsecure/cms1/TB00300001E.PDF
Don’t know if it will fit or is cost affective in your case or not.
That sounds like the Opening Force limit needs to be increased.
If you don’t know where the adjustment is on your model try Genie.
http://www.geniecompany.com/GenieCompany.aspx?cid=322
If the manual does not match yours then look at the FAQ and the Customer Support links on that page.
That is a classic symptom of a problem with the sensors.
I don’t have access to a manual for the older units.
This one is for a newer model.
http://www.chamberlain-diy.com/pdfdocs/114A3165.pdf
Now all of the details like the flashing of the trouble light is probably different. But look at the trouble shooting startiong on page 25 and the installation and alignment of the “eyes” on page 17.
Verify that the LED’s on the both the receiver and transmitter are on.
If it is Corain brand solid surface material contact Corian. They have a long INSTALLED warranty on their products.
