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There are way, way too many details to try and list them.
I would start with Black and Decker “Completely Home Wiring” book. Also “How to Wire a House” by Rex Cauldwell.
Also
http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/homewiringusa/2002/maindwelling/newdwel/newdwelshow.htm#10
http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/homewiringusa/2002/maindwelling/newdwel/newdwelshow.htm#22
But you want to check with your local building authority has some areas have amended the code and has different requirements.
If it is a true fungus then it will clean off with a little bleach.
But I susepct that it is either mineral from the water or the water brought “salts” out of the foundation wall.
That kind of stuff is more of a hard crytalain stuff. A wire brush will remove it, if not then some muratic acid will.
About the basement it is hard to tell what the conditions are. At least run a big fan down there.
If it seems at all humid or musty then get a humidifer. You should be able to rent some “commercial” dehumidifers used for water damage restoration.
Heat from a heat gun or even hair dryer will help soften up the adhesvice.
Also putting dry ice down on the tile will make it brittle and crack off when prying.
Also you can get floor scrapper tools at the home improvement stores.
They have sharper edges and more mass behind them to make it easier get up the old tiles.
Code is that a vent can’t be over 25 ft Developed distance. I am not sure of the numbers but I think that each 90 is equal to 7 ft.
But that is for SMOOTH WALL PIPE. ALUMINUM flex pipe should ONLY be used as need to make the connection.
And plastic flex pipe should not be used at all.
So unless you have nots of bends in it then you should not be too long. And most dryer manuals allow for upto 40-50 ft.
Now if they used flex all the way or the pip got crushed that could be a problem.
Also if this is a tight house then makeup air could be the problem. You can verify that by openin the closes window a couple of inches and keeping any doors from the window to the dryer open.
In any case this is a NEW house. Contact the builder.
Note all furances don’t have STANDING pilot lights. They have electronic igniter that start the pilot and the main burner only when the thermostat calls for heat.
For those with standing pilots they are all similar, but the location of the pilot and the valve design varies.
These I am showing several different links with pictures to help you find your parts.
http://homerepair.about.com/od/heatingcoolingrepair/ss/pilot_light.htm
http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-maintain-a-furnace1.htm
http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/articlefurnace.htmThe gas valve with have knob with 3 positions; Off, On, Pilot. On many of them you will have to depress the knob to turn it from OFF.
Turn it to Pilot. Then next to it will be a red safety reset button.
You need to hold down that safety while you light the pilot and unitl the pilot heats up the thermocouple.
The pilot should remain burning after you release the button.
Then turn the main know to ON.
Best is if you have a moisture meter. But most likely you don’t.
Can’t really tell how wet it got from here or the details of construction.
But if you have the DW off and the insulation out of the bay then blowin a fan on it for a week should be more than enough.
But I would also open the bay on each side. Becasue water could have run along the bottom plate and got those areas wet. And if they are wet at the side farest from the leak then also the bays after that also.
Actually it depends a lot on where you are in the room. And also the type of heat and the heigh of the ceiling.
In the winter you want the heat down low and not at the ceiling. But at the same time you don’t want feel the breeze. In a modern, well insulated home with lower ceilings and good placement of the vents the fan won’t buy you anything.
You want the fan on the lowest speed. If you are closer to the center of the room then try it with the fan blowing up.
In the summer you want to feel the fan. It increases the bodies evaporative cooling. Typicall you want the fan to blow down.
Did you look in the manual for the trouble shooting pages.
That is the exact description of bad or blocked sensors?
Did you check the lights is on BOTH sensors? Did you see if there is anything in the way when the door starts to move.
If the lights on the sensor blink it might be a loose wire that might move as the opener or door moves.
Under rare circumstance sometime strong sunlight can hit the receiver and overload it. If that is the problem then swaping the sensor transmitter and receiver fix it. You can verify it by using something (or even someone) on the outside to block the sun from the receiver.
If the light on the wall controll goes out, but those on the “safety eye” stay on them it is a problem in the connections. It can be inside the opener, the wire connections at the opener, connections at the switch, or the wire is broken someplace.
Does the opener work from a remote at this time?
If you can get to the opener when this happens (ie the car is not in the garage) then try a jumper right on the back of the opener where the wall switch connects.
If that works then the problem is in the wire or wall switch.
Looking at the connections on the wall switch are the first thing that I would do.
The problem is that you are meausring the SAME 120 volts. If you measure between the the two hots it will be zero instead of 240.
I could not find the drawing that I was looking for. And these don’t have both 240 and 120 loads on the same drawing.
http://www.vias.org/feee/poly_02.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Split_phaseWith a properly working system you will have V2 180 degrees out of phase with V1. That is when V1 goes to positive peak V2 goes to the negative peak so that they add together.
But if one leg is broken (say V2) then at the panel that leg woud read zero if you only have 120 volt loads.
But in addtion you have 240 loads. So that connects the, for example, water heater from L1 to L2. The current for the loads on V2 now flow through the WH. Many of the 120 loads would be much less than the WH so you don’t have much voltage drop across the WH.
IPL? Indpendence, Iowa, indianapolis Power and Light.
While this does vary in most power companies you are responsible for the meter socket, riser and weather head. The power company is responsible for the meter (but not connections) and the connections at the weather head.
So they may still require you to get an electrican out.
But I believe that sometimes Indpendence, Mo PL and will make some repairs on risers.
Current issue of Fine Home BUilding ahs an article on this. Should be available at most every magazine stands.
You lost one leg of the 240. By it self it would only allow 1/2 of the lights and receptacles to work.
But the 240 volt appliances are back feeding the the other leg so that they work.
I have no idea where this junction box is where the water was dripping. But I susepct that was not your problem.
But it sounds like your like the one leg of the feed is out.
THAT IS BEFORE THE CIRCUIT BREAKERS AND NO PROTECTION ON IT. YOU NEED A PROFESSIONAL TO LOOK AT IT.
You might call the power company first as there is a good chance that it on the part that they support.
Depending on how the table is made it would be a lot of work. The table would have to be disassembled and inviidual parts cut and joints recut for the aprons and stretchers.
And edge on the top would have to be recut and refinished.
Better to sell it and buy a new one.
Neither reverse polarity or a “grounding issue” will have any affect on how the washer operates.
How it will affect how safe the installation is, but no how the washer runs.
To the OP ask your question in the appliance forum and give the model number.
There are a couple of sharp appliance repair techs in that forum.
First you need to figure the demand load from this garage.
You need to figure the LARGEST combination of loads that will be operating at ONE TIME.
Do that based on the nameplate data.
That gives you the minimum size of the feeder that you need to the garage.
That sets the size of the feeder breaker that need at the main panel. You can go up in size if wanted, but the following equipement will also increase.
The wire needs to be able to handle that amount of current.
See NEC table 310-16. In most cases you can use the 75*C column, but you need to verify the type of wire that you are using.
If this is going to be 100 amps then will be #3 CU. You are not allowed to use the special table (310-15(b)(6)) as this is NOT a feeder to a DWELLING UNIT.
The sub-panel has to be as big or bigger than the feeder breaker.
If you have anyother mectallic connection between the buildings (water pipe, gas pipe, telephone or cable connection) then a 4 wire feeder needs to be run. Otherwise you can run a 3 wire feeder. But some locations only allow a 4 wire feeder.
If 3 wires are run then the sub-panel is treated as a main panel with the neutral bonded to the ground.
With 4 wires the neutral is unbonded and the neutral and ground busses are kept separate. With some panels htat requires installing a ground bus bar kit.
With either a 3 or 4 wire system you need to install a ground electrode system at the garage.
