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You did not indicate what kind of counter top that this is.
If it is laminate there is no repair.
However you can cut it out and install a glass cutting board kit.
I was figuring that the same person that would be iron would not blow dry their hair at the same time.
If you think that you will need to use both at the same time then you want to install 2 20 amp circuits.
Chamberlain makes the Sears Openers and while there are some variations in things like the number of lights the guts and functioning is the same.
This unit uses the same control board at the lasted replacement board.
Your might have dip switches for program rather than the learn button.
First pull the emergency release and manually operate the door.
See that it is balanced and works smoothly.
If the door is about 1/2 open and released it should stay in that postion.
Then run the opener with the door disconnected. And watch the chain and see that is runs smooth and is not catching.
If that does not show a problem then the closing force limit on the door needs adjusting.
Chamberlain makes the sears unit and the guts are the same.
This manual should help.
http://www.chamberlain-diy.com/doityourself/pdfdocs/A2466M.PDF
I don’t know enough about the cost to give you a specific answer.
But
“We have been offered a show case offer”
That is a “scam” that has been around since the time that people went around chinking log houses.
Sometimes it is just a marketing ploy “we are giving you this special discount, don’t tell your neigbhors.”
And your neighbors get the same pitch.
Other times it is a right out scam where they will offer a rebate for each job sold by people seeing yours. But there will never be any.
“We are not looking at ROI but we are wanting it to make a difference when considering purchasing our home over other homes in the area.”
Almost none of the buyers will even know the difference or care.
All they will see is that you have replacement windows. If that.
The power company transformer. But it could also be that the drop lines from pole to the house are undersized.
But the pump connection would not be the problem.
It has to be some place in the system that is common.
It can be the breaker panel or the connection at the breaker panel. Or connection in the meter.
But most likely it is the power company connections as they are exposed.
So call the power company first.
Flickering lights are caused by a bad connection some place or possibly an overloaded transformer.
Any loose connection generates heat and will get worse over time.
And if it is the neutral connection you can get dangerous high voltages on the receptacles.
You can get ones that mount between studs.
You can get toekick heater that you mount under cabinets.
And you can get vent fans that also include heaters.
“One of the garage door doesnt open when it gets too cold. (less than 50F)”
You mean the OPENER won’t open the door.
The garage door is completely separate issue from the opener.
Pull the release on the opener and manually operate the door.
It should work smoothly over it full range of motion. And it should be balanced. If you open about 1/2 way it should stay there. And if you open it all of the way it should say there.
If not then you need to get the door serviced.
If the door is not the problem then you need to adjust the opening force limit.
If you list the model number I might find a manual. The number will be in form of 139.xxxx. It might be under the light lenses. And some have labels on each end with different infomration.
There are several methods.
NONE GUARANTEED.
A non contact electrical proximity detector. Also know as Tick Testers. These run about $10-25 and HD and Lowes has them. Then are pen shaped devices. For your purpose the ones with adjustable sensitivity is better.
The heat as to be on at the time that you run the test. And if there is metal lathe behind the plaster it might not work.
As with all of the test don’t just find a small spot. But map out a large area and verify that what you have found is an evenly spaced pattern.
But from other threads on ceiling heat that the wires might be on 6″ centers and don’t really leave much room for anything else.
The other methods are to look for the heat. For this it is best to have the head off for couple of hours so that the ceiling is cool.
Then turn on the heat.
The cheapest is to mist the ceiling with water and watch the patern as it dries. Don’t know how well it will show on the ceiling. This method is used on concrete floors.
Use infra red. Non contact infra red thermometers are fairly inexpensive. But most of them have too wide of view so that you need to be a few inches from the ceiling.
A thermograph. This is an infra red picture of the ceiling. This is used to find insualtion and energy problems in homes. People that do energy rating have them. The HVAC contractor should know people that do this.
It is not CHEAP.
There is no separate ground wire. You should be using a 4 conductor cable and 4 conductor connectors.
That include the ground.
2 hots, neutral, and ground.
Efficiency is the ratio of the useful energy out compared to the (paid) energy that goes into it.
For all practical purposes electric heaters are 100% efficient. They are that way at the start and will be that way until they burn out.
Now hydronic style electric heaters MIGHT be more comfortable in some cases because the “smooth out” the heat. For example if you had one under a desk so it real close to your legs.
But in most applications you would not know the difference.
For truly portable generators OSHA requires them to be grounded. And unless there is something specific in the OSHA rules about what can serve as a ground electrode then it follow the NEC.
But the typical small portable generator there is no real practical need to connect it to a ground electrode system. You don’t have the conditions that exist on system run from high tension power lines.
However, if you already have “grounded strucutre” such as metal pipe or a framework for a steel building bolted to concrete base then it should be connected to that.
I am talking about 3 to 7 KW generators that might be found on a job site.
But the neutral is bonded to the generator “ground” terminal.
However, more and more “portable” generators are being connected standby power to a house, HOPEFULLY THROUGH A LEGAL TRANSFER SWITCH.
In that case the grounding is down through the house ground electrode system.
The generator neutral is kept isolated from the generate case. And 4 wires are run to the house. 2 Hots, neutral, and ground equipment conductor.
