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No good answer.
First try the remote from INSIDE the garage. If it does not work then it would appear to be a “mechanical” problem in the opener. (I am assuming that the receiver is in the opener. Some older ones had separate receivers. Some mounted next to the opner, other part of the wall switch). If yours is a separate mounted receiver by the opener get up on a ladder and check it with the as the door opens and closes. It might be moving enough break the connections.
While I don’t think that this is the problem go ahead and replace the remote battery. It is cheap.
Look for an “antenna” on the opener/receiver. It is typically just a wire a couple of inches long. See that it is extended out.
If the two openers are of the same type and age then swap the remtoes and reprogram them. If the problem goes with the remote then the remote is the problem replace it.
If it doesn’t then the problem is in the receiver/opener.
Depending on the age of the opener you can get replacement controller boards with built in receiver for about $75.
Or for $50-75 you can get universal replacement receiver/remote.
http://www.aaaremotes.com is one source.
First you need to figure out what income that you want to make. Then you need to add to that you expenses such as for the truck, insurance, advertising, etc.
Then you need to figure out what percent of time that you will work. Realizing that you won’t get paid for travel time, time doing estimates, vacation and sick time. So you need to adjust your rates to cover that time.
On the material you want to mark those up to cover you if you get some bad material and have to replace it. Or have to make a 2nd trip because of missing parts.
Then walking through the job and see how many hour you think that it would take you.
For things that you are not sure of you can get estimating books. RS Means and Craftsman Books are two publishers.
I saw some at Lowes and at Barnes and Noble.
If it works the same from the wall control then check to see if the door works smoothly and is balanced when operated manually.
Then check the opener by it’s self.
After verifying both the door and opener if it still does not work then try increasing the force limit adjustment.
This is a common problems.
You can get box extenders which are just a shield so that the gap around the box is closed off. And they come with long screws.
The receptacels and switches are mounted on the surface (or flush) with the tile.
This link some some Zing Ear and Zing Ear equialent CB’s. (near the bottom)
http://www.kenselectronics.com/lists/fuses.htm
And standard electronic supply house have similar types of breakers. Don’t know exactly what you have.
But here are some examples.
One of these will probably work. The Potter and Brumfiled (TYCO) W23 series, W31 series, W54/57 series, W58 series, or W51 series.
They also have other brands and styles.
INSTALLATION just consists of plugging them in and connecting up the hoses and vent. Anyone should be able to do that.
If you don’t have the plumbing supply, drain, and dryer venting then you need a plumber to do that.
If you don’t have the electrical receptacles then you need an electrican to do that.
Depending on the area and local codes and also how difficult the are is to run the new lines sometimes a handyman can do it and also repair the drywall if that needs to be cut for running the lines.
Voles are a rodent and you can use mice posoins and mice traps on them.
They have no relationship what soever with moles.
That is not the part number of the opener. You need to find the opener number. It will be in the form of 139.5—-
Look in around the area where the wires connect. You might have to remvoe the light cover.
Then go to this site.
http://www.aaaremotes.com/liftmastercompatibilitychart.html
And look up the model number.
Then click on the Current remote. On that page it will have programing instructions for the remote.
And it will also have the matching keypads.
Then click on the keypads link and on that page you will find programming instructions for the keypads.
1-877-527-0313
1-800-749-3267Try these number for Hampton Bay support.
Note that Hampton Bay is a Home Depot house brand.
First disconnect the opener and check the DOOR. It should open and close without any binding.
And it should be BALANCED so that if you open it about 1/2 way it should stay. Open it more and it will continue to open. Close it some more and it will continue to close.
AFTER fixing any problems with the door then check the opener without the door.
Run it up and down. It should work soomthly and have catch and go full travel.
After that reconnect the door.
If it still does not open then increase the OPEN FORCE LIMT on the opener.
What about the electrican that wired the house?
What you are experience is caused by a bad connection or an overloaded transformer.
Generally I suggest contacting the power company as they have more connections that are located in the weather and more likely to fail.
But in your case you have already contacted the power co.
An electrican, with a voltmeter, should be able to quickly determine the problem.
Measuring the voltage from each hot to neutral at the main panel with a heavy load (iron, heater, toater) both on and off. And then move it to a receptacle on the other hot leg and repeat.
That will quickly show if it is in the hot or neutral connection and which one.
If it can’t be fixed by tightening up the connections at the main breakers then he needs to move to the meter and feeder cables.
There are lots of variables about where the meter is located and who is responsible for what part of the feeder cables. It will vary alot from power compnay to power company inaddition to the type of connection.
If the electrican determines that it is powrer company side and you can’t get then to fix it then contact the state Public Utility COmmision (or what your states name for the group that regulators power companies).
This is potentionaly dangerous and if when some lights dim, other get brighter, it is doubly dangerous and needs to fixed.
What you have is a gypsum board or rock Lath with a brown coast (the sand cement layer) and the plaster top coat.
Here is some background information.
http://www.cr.nps.gov/hps/tps/briefs/brief21.htm
Normally I would suggest cutting out the whole area. But with the electric radiant heat that will be a problem. You might try calling around local Plastering companies and see if they have done any of this type of repair.
Out local yellow pages has a list of people that do plastering although it is no longer common in this area.
If you don’t do any good that way try to looking for the Dry Wall Supplies and the yellow pages and then call them and know if they know people that do plaster work.
Also check with local electricans that have been around for a while and see if you can find one familar with the system and if they can do repairs, which would allow the area to be cut out and replaced, or if they know plasters that can work on that system with the wires in place.
You might try asking here. More likely to find a professional that is more familar with this.
http://discussions.tommmymac.us/BBS/Paint_Paper_and_Plaster-1-C8.html
Also you might try the garden web and DIY forums.
You might try coating the existing surface with a plaster bonding coat to help “seal” it.
NOTE THIS IS NOT A SUGGEST, BUT RATHER JUST A WILD IDEA. TRy to find out as much about this or find experts that can do the work first.
http://www.larsenproducts.com/plasterweld-specs.htm
http://irc.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/pubs/ctus/11_e.html
