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Try here
There are lots of resouces includind Find a Professional that might help.
But under Questions is the link to their forum.
Lots of people there that understand steam systems.
If you post the model number (139.xxxx) and the manufacturing date. Typically the labels are under the light lens and some have 2 labels on each end with different parts of the number.
From that information I can sometimes find a manual for a similar Chamberlain or Liftmaster.
http://www.chamberlain-diy.com/doityourself/support
Then click on Programing Instructions
You will need to erase the memory and the reprogram for the remote(s) that you have.
Contact them.
First check the data sheet.
http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/docs/data_sheets/TLGLSS%20DS%205_08.pdf?user=diy&lang=en
If that does not help then look at the FAQ’s.
http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/Support/?user=diy&lang=en
If that does not have the answer, then look at the Contact page.
You can either email them or call the 800 support number.
Some how the relative position of the chain (or belt) moved with respect to the limit switches.
You need to either looses the chain and disconnect it enough so that you can move it on the sprocket. Or remove the limit switch and manually turn it.
Watching it close see which way it is turning.
Then with it loose turn it the opposite direction. Then reinstall it.
“I can’t claim insurance because the person who did the previous work, was not a general/licensed contractor.”
Look at your insurance policy.
I would be very, very surprised to see if the policy would have such a limitation. Specially if this was an existing roof when you bought the house.
Now some insurance companies will not write a policy or require that it be replaced within a month or 2 if it is not in good condition when the policy is first written.
But that is not what you describe.
Check with your agent.
By the sound of it you would be wise to have the whole roof striped and replaced.
There is a good chance that there is flashing, valleys, and other things that are not done correctly.
That can end up making a worst problem.
You might need to remove the toilet and turn it upside down.
Then push it out backwards from the bottom end.
Some in the flow of water is moving and blocking and releasing making the noise.
Most likely it is a loose washer on the sink faucet.
Second place is loose washer on the stop valve under the sink.
In rare cases it might be a worn stem or some debrie in the line.
I looked at a manual on one newer model and apparently they how have an internal reset. They say to unplug and to reset it.
If yours has one it is will be a little square red button, about 1/4″. Not the bigger learn button which is red on some models.
It will be on the side where the wires connect, which might be under a light lens cover.
First check the reset button on the opener.
However, I don’t think that is your problem.
It should have a years warranty. Look at the back of the manual. Don’t remember what the terms are. If it is only carryin or if they will come out and work on it.
I am orginal from Louisville.
I posted this in anohter forum.
“I emailed my sister and see called me back. They are in florida.
But my 2 nieces and nephew in Middletown are all out of power. She said that he had a kerosene heater in the single nieces house. But she is going out of town for a dance recital for one of her kids. So he was winterizing it and moving the heater to someone elses house.
My nephew had be Fire Chief in Middletown until last fall. He said that St Mathews had 3 fires yesterday.
I suspect most where from improvised heating sources.”
And this is from a friend of mine that works at LG&E. He normally does building maintance, but for the duration he is living at LG&E and doing coordination work.
“Got 4 hrs. last night (sleep).
We sent a generator to Greenville, KY water company two days ago. It got there late and the crew couldn’t finf anyone to let them hook it up. They finally got it installed and the plant running early today. But like Bill’s post they are playing catch up now refilling towers.
We are suppose to getting another 800 crews in tommorow. All hotel rooms are filled throughout the areas. We got about 2000 rooms Tuesday, but that wasn’t enough. A lot of people with out power have flooded into hotels, limiting waht is available to us. Renting or begging anyplace we can put these guys up. Even getting bunkroom trailors hauled in for several locations, but they are not here yet. There are nearly 400 crews sleeping in thier trucks tonight.
Feeding them is another issue outside of the metro area. We have started providing generators and hook ups for any business that can cater the food to them. One of our site coordinators got a Wal-Mart without power to open so he could clean out all the snack food still on the shelves.
Ike cost us $40 million. They won’t even give an estimate of how much higher this one will go.
When I think of the conditions those guys are working in and the lack facilities to take care of them, it make what we are doing a cake walk.”
“I gotta give this a bump and call out to anyone in GA and AL. There are many other states that have sent help, but i just came back from the staging area for Georgia Power and Alabama Power.Those guys are great. They rolled in here ready to rock. Self contained on everything except housing and food, even their own security (don’t mess with Georgia Power -They have an armed security force that would rival some SWAT units)
You guys try not to break anything while we have your crews up here. We are going to hang on to them for a week or two.”
In the past they have had problems with people stealing copper wire right off the trucks.
It is best to use compressed air to blow out the lines as there are often low places in the lines.
But unless you can get one with a gas engine that is out.
You want to flush all of the toilets. And get some NON-TOXIC antifreeze (RV or Marine) and pour some in the toilet bowl and all of the other drains; tubs/sinks/showers.
The most power for the furnace is used by the blower.
In most cases I suspect that it would take a minim of 2000 watts to start the blower. And maybe bigger depending on the size of the furnace and the type of motor.
You say 220, but what does the label say.
Most likely it say 230 that is the Standardized European voltage rating.
And the US is 240. So it would probably work OK.
While induction motors like might be on a washer will run 6/5 faster it will not overheat. (Running US motors, unless they are dual speced as 50/60 hertz can overheat because of the saturation of the magnetic parts).
That is not a large increase in speed, but it might too much for things.
If it has analog clock or timer that will run too fast. But if it is used only for adjustable timing then you can just set for different amount of time. If it is a fixed cycle like washer it will run that much shorter which may or may not be a big problem.
If it is has an electronic controls then may or may not have the same problem as the analog version. Some electronic systems use independent clocks (oscillators) and some count powerline crossings and some are able to detect the difference in frequency and run on either frequency.
Standard residential power in the US is 120/240 volts and sometimes 120/208 in larger condos or appartment complexes.
In many cases it would not be too expensive to run a 240 v circuit to this.
But the only way to tell how functional it will be will to try it.
