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Yep…as usual you guys are right!
After a LONG dry time, use one of those primers.
>>> If your ceiling is the “popcorn” texture, I’d spot-prime the stain area, then prime the whole thing (so there’s 2 coats of primer on the stain).
>>> Then…2 coats of ceiling-white (or whatever you’ve used up there). It’s the only way to have everything look totally perfect.
Thanks!
FaronHi Gail!
We used to sell the Behr stains like you have, but SO MUCH depends on prep and maintenance for a good look. We always counsel our clients how important the RIGHT kind of prep is.
***- Pressure-washing is the preferred way to rinse off a deck cleaner, BUT you’ve got to be careful. The SIKKENS stain company has very good tips on this…
1) Keep the tip of the wand about 1′ away from the surface.
2) Dial down the PSI to about 500.
3) Get a good deck-cleaner, lightly scrub it in, & wait the proper time…usually 15 min.
4) Then rinse correctly with the pressure-washer.
>>> If the pressure is any higher than this, and your tip is too close, you end up doing more harm than good! The outer wood fibers (Cellulose & Lignin) can only take so much pressure before they get crushed. Sunlight on a horizontal surface does enough damage!
>>> Even the SIKKENS stains stress “recoat when visually neccessary”. That can often mean EVERY OTHER YEAR ON THE HORIZONTAL portion. Vertical portions should last 3 to 4 yrs. between recoats.
>>> If your deck is over 10 years old, it’s time to sand the walking area. To much damage has happened to be fixed by a simple “cleaning”. It would be like an 80-yr. old woman trying to look like Christina Aguilara just by using a good make-up…IT WON’T HAPPEN.
>>> Not what you wanna hear, but it’s the truth. I have a 10-yr. old Redwood deck that never gets any shade. I sanded the walking area and steps in the 8th yr., and I have to put a refresher-coat of SIKKENS Redwood SRD on this yr. to stay ahead of the damage.
Good luck!
FaronOne of the easy things to do would be using a Light-Cream color, mixed with a Glaze, to “mute” the your deeper base color.
>>> First…If you have some of your original paint left, put a couple of coats on a primed piece of 2′ x 2′ cardboard/foam-board, then experiment with using different ratios of glaze and the new coordinating color.
>>> When your “sample-boards” are dry (1 day!), start with a ratio of 1 part paint to 3 parts latex glaze. Use disposable dixie-cups or measuring cups for this. Dump your “mini-mix” into old plastic butter- tubs. Sponge this glaze/paint mix onto the sample board. Try another sample with 5 parts glaze to 1 part paint.
>>> For another cool look, brush on a thin coat of your glaze/paint mix, then lightly tamp a crinkled-up plastic bag on it!
>>> Do 6 sample-boards, let-’em dry for another day, and place them on the wall for a while to see them in different lights and times of day.
>>> You’ll eventually find a technique you like before you ever touch your “real” wall.
The toughest part is deciding on a coordinating color, because this will be the most noticeable tone. The glaze just gives a translucent property to this top-color, letting it reveal some of the original shade.
This will help!
FaronTo have a decent, wearable surface, most of those paints are baked on at the factories, with electrochemical bonding. You’d never get as good a look as the original.
>>> However, it never hurts to ask at an appliance store if there are some special paints they’re aware of…!
Thanks,
FaronHi Debbie,
You MUST put up cement board on the walls too, if you’re gonna have a tiled shower-stall!! I believe it’s required as code. Only the actual shower-stall area has to have cement board behind it, but doublecheck with some tilers/builders.
It’s also very heavy!! Have some friends handy!!
>>> Ask your tile retailer what should be tiled first. Also inquire about your subfloor requirements. Most remodels DON’T have a stiff-enough subfloor!! Usually you have to lay additional plywood.
>>> DON’T skimp here…you’re not gonna want to see cracking grout lines/tiles because your floor flexes too much!!
Thanks!
FaronThose are goood suggestions. Yes,if you have a “regular” basement, run the dehumidifiers. If it’s just a crawl space, there are power-vents that can exhaust air periodically.
>>> If it’s new paint, the smell should go away in a couple of days.
>>> If it doesn’t change after a week, there’s something else going on! You may need to hire a home-inspector. There might be a slow water leak behind a wall or something…caused maybe by a bad weather-seal somewhere, or, unlikely, by a plumbing leak.
Thanks,
FaronThis is such a classic problem with some builders/painters!!!
Typically, some builders and/or painters think using a cheap flat paint is good enough to consider a wall “primed”.
>>> Paint and Primer are 2 DIFFERENT THINGS, and will affect subsequent coats of paint differently. It kind of concerns me when you say “they didn’t re-prime with flat paint”. Cheap flat “builders paints” and primers do look similiar on the wall, but there’s one BIG difference…”builders’ flat” wall paints are fairly porous, whereas primers ELIMINATE any porosity!!
>>> This uneven porosity is what’s dulling the SHEEN of your Satin paint. The sheen will appear duller where there’s no primer, and glossier where there’s ACTUAL PRIMER UNDERNEATH. Satins and Semi-glosses are very sensitive to having a good quality primer underneath. This lets the sheen develope in the actual paint layer, as opposed to being absorbed into the cheap flat paint.
>>> SOLUTION: Prime everything you plan to paint for the most even appearance of your chosen sheen. Use 2 coats of actual paint too!
Thanks!
FaronHi CW,
You may want to consider a CLEAR or lightly pigmented interior sealer from SIKKENS. This company makes SUPERB stains/wood protection coatings.
Their interior products protect pine from UV “picture-fading”…if you move a picture that’s been in one spot for some time.
These are Premium coatings…not the cheapest in the world, but if you’re fussy about keeping a new appearance…check this stuff out!
It’s not available everywhere, so check out their website “http://www.nam.sikkens.com”
**** Check out the “Cetol UV Interior”, “Cetol Interior Clear”, & the water-based “Cetol BL Clear”.
**** They are very specific about application procedures, etc., so find a store that sells it, and get the brochures.
**** You could easily spend $200 or more, depending on your surface area, but this is good stuff! We have Sikkens in Fargo, ND at our store.
Thanks!
FaronFlat-sheen paints can be very tricky to clean unfortunately! If you had used a “Satin” (medium-gloss) paint, the cleanup would be much easier. Also, do you know if primer was used under the paint?? Were 2 coats of paint put on??
If only ONE coat of color was used, you may always see the cleaned area in certain light.
**** Flats don’t have any sheen to resist water penetration/abrasion, so are much more affected by cleaning, bumps, etc.
**** I hate to say it, but…for the most even look, I’d put on another coat of paint on that wall. You may also consider jumping up to a Satin-sheen of the same color, BUT you’d need to use 2 coats.
**** Another alternative – ACE Hardware stores have a Premium flat called “Sensations.” It has 3M Scotchguard in it, & cleans up SUPERBLY. I’ve rubbed dirty motor-oil with peanut butter into it, used a spray 409 cleaner…you can’t even tell anything was on it! It’s about $27/gal.
Thanks!
FaronDo you mean the water started after the new DOOR was put in??
*** It might not have anything to do with your porch itself…but more likely with some bad sealing around the door; such as not caulking the right areas, or not using flashing correctly if it was required, etc.
*** Does your porch slab slope AWAY from the door??
*** What kind of siding do you have on this wall where the door was installed??
*** Where do see the water starting…on the interior WALLS, or just at the door bottom???Do some investigating and get back to us!
FaronWow! This is not a good thing you have goin’ on here!!!
First…
Is the chimney all brick, or just a steel-sided “box” going up the side of the house??
Most likely, there’s some bad metal flashing and/or sealant around where the chimney comes through the roof.
Also…
At the very top, if it’s a masonry cap, the mortar/cement should be sloped away from the metal sleeves of the pipe.
Further…If it’s been leaking a while, you could be soon developing mold between walls if some of the leak is BEHIND the walls! This happens more than you think.
The Builder…You’ll have to have them get after any subcontractors. You must have some kind of warranty period with the builder.
Hope this helps!
Faron“Professional” painters know how to put on paint well (usually!), BUT there are segments in any profession who don’t know the “why’s” about doing tasks.
For starters…
1) I hope the surface is being cleaned with a house cleaner…pressure-washer hopefully! You HAVE to get off the dirt, etc. before painting over it.
2) Primers DO need to be used! ESPECIALLY on exteriors! Good primers are “resin-rich”, meaning they stick to surfaces better than paint itself. Paint & primer might look the same when you shake them up, but similarities end there. In turn, paint sticks to new primer better than to a 5+ tr. old surface!
3) Primers give an “even drying surface” to new layers of paint. Over the years, some walls/paints can develope “dry spots” that aren’t that visible until new paint goes on. Without priming, the paint will absorb slightly differently in those areas, therefore affecting the SHEEN of the paint slightly. These areas will appear “duller” than others. NOT the result I’d want after spending $$ to paint MY house. The higher the sheen of paint, the more sensitive it is to unevenly absorbing substrates.
4) To summarize, the “Ideal” paint job needs to go on a CLEAN, SANDED, DRY, & PRIMED substrate. THEN 2 coats of the paint color. Some colors, like burgundies/reds, MUST have a gray primer under them, with (often) 3 coats of color.
5) OIL primers are fine under Latex topcoats. Many painters like that. The Oils stick slightly better, while the latex paints have more “flex” in the film.
Hope this helps!
FaronI’d REALLY like to tell you this will be easy, BUT I can’t! The BEST way to do this is to scrape all the loose crap off the walls. Have the Aleve handy!
>>> If you just repaint over this mess, your new paint might just tear off some of the older layers as it dries!! In effect, your new paint would barely be clinging to a shaky surface. Paint HAS to be applied to a clean, sound, & PRIMED substrate to look and perform it’s best.
>>> After you’ve gotten down to the “sound” paint layer, wash the walls with a TSP cleaner, rinse well, let dry, and PRIME the wall with a top-quality primer. This is SO important for good adhesion & eveness of the sheen.
>>> If there’s any wall repairs to do (gouged paper, nail holes, etc.), do them B4 you prime.
>>> Use the appropriate SHEEN of paint for the room(s): SEMI-GLOSS for a main bath, SATIN for a kids room, entries, kitchens. TWO coats are necessary over the primer.
>>> If you’re doing a deep red, use a gray primer, & 3 coats of red.
Good luck!
Faron1) Get a tool from Zinsser called the “Paper Tiger”. It’s a palm-sized round tool that pierces many small holes through the paper. This enables the actual stripper solution (like Dif) to reach the glue layer. You have to keep the area damp for a few applications of the stripper. TIME is your friend here…follow the instructions on your stripper.
2) The paper should come off pretty easy IF there was SIZING put on the wall b4 the paper went on!! If there was NO sizing applied…good luck…it’s gonna be a long afternoon! You may have to tear it off using a rented wallpaper-steamer.
3) After everything is rinsed off WELL…let wall(s) dry, and put on a coat of STAIN-BLOCKING primer. Give a slight nod to an oil-based primer.
4) NOW you’re finally ready to apply TWO coats of paint. Use top-quality rollers & Brushes. This isn’t the stuff to skimp on!!
>>> Hope this all helps!
FaronWhen you say “wallboard”…Do ya mean drywall, or another type of hard panel? I’ve seen differing types.
*** Bottom line….YES, priming is a must. NO way around it. If you don’t prime, bad adhesion will be a factor; along with uneveness of the desired “sheen”, due to uneven absorption of the paint.
*** If using dark colors like Burgundy, you MUST use a gray primer, then 3 coats of the deep color.
*** Use top-line products for best results!
Thanks!
Faron
