Forum Replies Created
As the previous poster stated, matching into another line never guarantees perfection!!
(We’re at an independant retailer of RL Paints…and VERY HAPPY that HD shed RL!!!)
I coud post the formula, but it would be “near-meaningless” if going into another brand.
* Every companies colorants are different, and the actual tinting-strengths vary too.
* Our RL paint color-deck is built upon the ACE/Ralph-Lauren formula database. HD had another database for their colorants to tint RL.
* In light-white shades, most tinting-equipment can’t shave down a formula small enough for a pint (& I’ve got a very expensive scanner & tinter at my disposal…).
FaronJanuary 23, 2009 at 1:04 am in reply to: Sultan Red Ralph Lauren Paint color Looking for Formula #298383
These tint-bases have changed twice since then. The formula 8 years ago wouldn’t exactly match in todays bases. The sheens have changed some too.
Unless you can find a store/someone with an old tint-base, you’re out of luck for an exact match!
We MAY have old RL formula’s, but again, it wouldn’t exactly match using todays bases anyway….
(I’m at an independant RL-paint retailer, NOT a HD!!)
If it’s for touch-up, it won’t match anyway, mainly because of wear/fade on your existing walls.
(sounds like you need to ADD texture)
If so, this is easy!
At most hardware stores, there’s a texture-spray by Homax. It has an adjustable top for changing the droplet size that sprays out.
>>> Have your repair-spots sanded smooth, ALL dust removed, and lightly primed.
>>> Then do a quick, spiral-motion spray over the patched areas.
>>> Let texture dry, and, IDEALLY…prime/paint the whole wall for the least noticeable result.
BUT, I don’t know for sure!!
Any Co. phone# you can call if no definate help surfaces?
Maybe try some flooring-stores in your area?!
You’ll HAVE to get a certified building-inspector to look at it.
This could be serious, and may involve backhoe-digging/repouring of a wall.
Sorry to say…but it may not be cheap either…:-(
As with good a good dental-cleaning, it’s NOT a quick process once the surface gets to the state you’re describing!
The ONLY way to get back to “square-one” is by sanding, and possibly using a stripper in detailed areas. Even these areas may need a Dremel-sander touch-up.
* Get a good 1/4-sheet Palm-sander, and lots of 50-grit paper for initial coating removal.
* Use 80-100 grit for final smoothing.
* Dust-mask & eye-goggles are important too…the dust will be a flyin’!
* Vacuum ALL dust off, and lightly wipe with a paint-thinner dampened cloths. You’ll be surprised how much more dust comes out of the grain!
>> NOW you’ve got a clean, sound surface that’ll absorb and hold stain evenly.
>>> FORGET Lemon-Oil & Linseed oil!! These are VERY SLOW to dry, are mold magnets, and not that durable.
>>> Use 3 coats of a good SPAR polyurethane, or, better yet, a Sikkens exterior siding product that forms a sheen.
* It’s very popular up here for beautiful wood garage doors, siding, etc.
* Not the cheapest stuff in the world (Log & Siding series is ~ $75/gallon), but it’s the only game in town for many uses.
* 2 coats mandatory, 24 hrs. apart.
* Check out:
* This stuff is used frequently in MN Lakes country on Log homes, etc.
* Couple years ago, we ordered in a $3,000 pallets’-worth for ONE newer home!!
* On a properly prepped door, it looks beautiful!
An old home like that almost certainly has lead in a lower layer.
If your trim is going to be removed and stripped, you can use the “harsh stuff”! Meaning…the Methylene-chloride based stuff in the garage, where there’s LOTS of air!!!.
If trim is staying inside, I strongly recommend you consider a newer class of strippers: http://www.dumondchemicals.com/smart-strip.htm
They’re more expensive and slower, but you can use them inside, and they’re No-VOC. They DO work though!!
This stuff has been used on many old restoration projects where the “harsh-stuff” just isn’t an option.
A gallon averages about $50.
In a few years, the harsh strippers will be getting rarer.
Sorry to burst the balloon here, but 90% of the time, paint failures are due to lack of prep, and/or poor prep.
We used to handle Behr paints (independant store…NOT HD), and had good luck with it. We’ve since dropped Behr when we obtained the C2 line (a high-end paint).
1) How old/what material is your existing trim substrate?
2) Was the trim washed, let dry, scraped/sanded and primed?
* It only takes a LITTLE chalking to screw up the best of paints/primers.
* A chalking surface is considered an “unsound substrate” and renders any warranty void.
3) What exact base # is on your cans? Should say on the lower front.
4) What was the weather like when painting?
5) What condition was existing paint in? Any cracking, peeling, etc.?
>>> MOST Pre-primed doors, etc., need to be lightly sanded, dust removed & re-primed. Low-grade primers are usually used; and after shipping, storage, etc., are so dried-out & dirty by the time someone actually BUYS them, that they won’t hold paint very well anymore.
>>> Even a high-end primer is too dried-out in 1 MONTH to hold anything.
I’ll never understand how this rumor got started!!!
Freezing ruins the paint on the brush, AND takes time for bristles to return to a workable consistency.
Wrap tightly and use the Refridgerator!!
What brand/series is your brush?
If you blast away at it with a p/washer, you’ll be buying a new deck anyway cuz you just ruined the wood!
For the main walking area…
Rent a 12″ x 18″ vibrating-plate sander.
* Buy a couple of backer pads,
* Get a half-dozen 60-grit sanding-sheets.
* Optional…finish with a pass or two of 80-grit.
* Sand with the direction of the lumber,’till wood looks even and smooth.
* Vacuum all dust off, then wipe with paint-thinner.
NOW…you’ve basically got NEW wood that will absorb & hold stain evenly!!
>>> All old, degraded wood is a memory now.
Sorry about the difficulties you’re having!
Yes, chalking paint can ruin the adhesion of even top-notch primers, etc.
* Try the P/W on some of it, to see how easily the paint will come off.
* Zinsser’s Jomax cleaner is decent for exteriors.
* Pump-spray the Jomax on the house…from the bottom-up.
* Usually, bad chalking needs to be scrubbed-off…probably with a long wand, like a car-washing pole.
* Scrub from bottom-up too!
* Now you can haul out the pressure-washer!!
* Don’t have pressure too high (less than 1,000 psi!!), or you’re destroying the substrate; and keep the tip a foor away.
* Drytime…hmmmm…you’re driving water into wall…probably a WEEK or more!!
* Rinse from top-down.
Finally ready for a top-notch primer!!!
* Buy the best Exterior Latex you can find…C2 Exterior, ACE-Royal, Good-‘ol 123, etc.
* Same thing with the Topcoats…THE BEST LATEX you can afford. Don’t spend under $20/gal.
* 2 FULL COATS…nothing less.
* This may raise some eyebrows, but I’d use a Satin-sheen for the main body. Flats hold dirt too easily, especially on Stucco.
Good luck Buddy!
Keep us posted…
Because it’s a soft wood like Pine,
AND it was basically destroyed by pressure-washing…
Sanding is now the only option.
Forget the harsh strippers!
* All you’ll have is a stripped, ruined deck surface!
* Any pressure-washing over 500 psi will gouge/shred soft cellulose fibers.
* They won’t hold anything now.
* Sanding renews wood…in the sense that the shredded-wood is sheared away, leaving strong/open wood cell-structures that will HOLD stain evenly.
* Your deck is too low to consider a solid paint or stain…too much moisture near the ground.
* Use a semi-transparent Oil. These breath better.
* Think of (sanding) it as a “skin peel”! EXACT same principal!
Your deck isn’t ruined…just the stain releasing from the wood.
Some questions 1st though…
* How high off the ground is your deck?
* What species of wood?
* How old is it?
* How has it been cleaned b4?
* What stains have been used b4?
The easiest way (believe it or not…) to change stains is to sand off existing stain.
* Rent a vibrating-plate sander, usually a 12″ x 18″ sanding-plate on the bottom.
* You have to buy a couple of sanding backer-pads & the actual sanding-sheets.
* Use 80-grit sheets.
Lemme know the info. asked above.
There is almost automatically Lead in the old paints.
This has to be removed by licensed contractors!!
You can’t do it on a “piece-meal” basis, or you’re constantly having to re-seal areas off.
Same with Electrical…can’t be done room-by-room. You may be able to do a “floor” at a time, but with all the ducting, etc., etc., to be run…you’re talking some SERIOUS $$$ HERE….
You MAY pay for this home twice-over…
* New insulation, New wiring…
* Asbestos and/or Lead removal…
* Probable new ducting/heating supply…
* New Primers, paints…..
A lot ahead of you!
I often (mistakenly!!) call any small knife a “putty-knife”!!
Yes….a 1″ scraper typically has a “angled/chisel” end to it. Better for slicing under paint edges.