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  • in reply to: paint touch ups #304680

    As the previous poster stated, matching into another line never guarantees perfection!!

    (We’re at an independant retailer of RL Paints…and VERY HAPPY that HD shed RL!!!)

    I coud post the formula, but it would be “near-meaningless” if going into another brand.
    * Every companies colorants are different, and the actual tinting-strengths vary too.
    * Our RL paint color-deck is built upon the ACE/Ralph-Lauren formula database. HD had another database for their colorants to tint RL.
    * In light-white shades, most tinting-equipment can’t shave down a formula small enough for a pint (& I’ve got a very expensive scanner & tinter at my disposal…).


    in reply to: Sultan Red Ralph Lauren Paint color Looking for Formula #298383

    These tint-bases have changed twice since then. The formula 8 years ago wouldn’t exactly match in todays bases. The sheens have changed some too.
    Unless you can find a store/someone with an old tint-base, you’re out of luck for an exact match!

    We MAY have old RL formula’s, but again, it wouldn’t exactly match using todays bases anyway….
    (I’m at an independant RL-paint retailer, NOT a HD!!)

    If it’s for touch-up, it won’t match anyway, mainly because of wear/fade on your existing walls.



    in reply to: Removing Texture from Drywall #298221

    (sounds like you need to ADD texture)

    If so, this is easy!
    At most hardware stores, there’s a texture-spray by Homax. It has an adjustable top for changing the droplet size that sprays out.

    >>> Have your repair-spots sanded smooth, ALL dust removed, and lightly primed.
    >>> Then do a quick, spiral-motion spray over the patched areas.
    >>> Let texture dry, and, IDEALLY…prime/paint the whole wall for the least noticeable result.


    in reply to: Laminate Flooring #298220

    BUT, I don’t know for sure!!
    Any Co. phone# you can call if no definate help surfaces?
    Maybe try some flooring-stores in your area?!


    in reply to: wall pulling away #298219

    You’ll HAVE to get a certified building-inspector to look at it.
    This could be serious, and may involve backhoe-digging/repouring of a wall.

    Sorry to say…but it may not be cheap either…:-(


    in reply to: Refinish Wood Garage Door #294738

    As with good a good dental-cleaning, it’s NOT a quick process once the surface gets to the state you’re describing!

    The ONLY way to get back to “square-one” is by sanding, and possibly using a stripper in detailed areas. Even these areas may need a Dremel-sander touch-up.
    * Get a good 1/4-sheet Palm-sander, and lots of 50-grit paper for initial coating removal.
    * Use 80-100 grit for final smoothing.
    * Dust-mask & eye-goggles are important too…the dust will be a flyin’!
    * Vacuum ALL dust off, and lightly wipe with a paint-thinner dampened cloths. You’ll be surprised how much more dust comes out of the grain!

    >> NOW you’ve got a clean, sound surface that’ll absorb and hold stain evenly.

    >>> FORGET Lemon-Oil & Linseed oil!! These are VERY SLOW to dry, are mold magnets, and not that durable.

    >>> Use 3 coats of a good SPAR polyurethane, or, better yet, a Sikkens exterior siding product that forms a sheen.
    * It’s very popular up here for beautiful wood garage doors, siding, etc.
    * Not the cheapest stuff in the world (Log & Siding series is ~ $75/gallon), but it’s the only game in town for many uses.
    * 2 coats mandatory, 24 hrs. apart.
    * Check out:

    * This stuff is used frequently in MN Lakes country on Log homes, etc.
    * Couple years ago, we ordered in a $3,000 pallets’-worth for ONE newer home!!
    * On a properly prepped door, it looks beautiful!


    in reply to: best stripper to remove paint? #294735

    An old home like that almost certainly has lead in a lower layer.

    If your trim is going to be removed and stripped, you can use the “harsh stuff”! Meaning…the Methylene-chloride based stuff in the garage, where there’s LOTS of air!!!.

    If trim is staying inside, I strongly recommend you consider a newer class of strippers: http://www.dumondchemicals.com/smart-strip.htm

    They’re more expensive and slower, but you can use them inside, and they’re No-VOC. They DO work though!!
    This stuff has been used on many old restoration projects where the “harsh-stuff” just isn’t an option.
    A gallon averages about $50.

    In a few years, the harsh strippers will be getting rarer.


    in reply to: Home Depot & Behr Paint #294734

    Sorry to burst the balloon here, but 90% of the time, paint failures are due to lack of prep, and/or poor prep.

    We used to handle Behr paints (independant store…NOT HD), and had good luck with it. We’ve since dropped Behr when we obtained the C2 line (a high-end paint).

    Some questions:
    1) How old/what material is your existing trim substrate?
    2) Was the trim washed, let dry, scraped/sanded and primed?
    * It only takes a LITTLE chalking to screw up the best of paints/primers.
    * A chalking surface is considered an “unsound substrate” and renders any warranty void.
    3) What exact base # is on your cans? Should say on the lower front.
    4) What was the weather like when painting?
    5) What condition was existing paint in? Any cracking, peeling, etc.?

    >>> MOST Pre-primed doors, etc., need to be lightly sanded, dust removed & re-primed. Low-grade primers are usually used; and after shipping, storage, etc., are so dried-out & dirty by the time someone actually BUYS them, that they won’t hold paint very well anymore.

    >>> Even a high-end primer is too dried-out in 1 MONTH to hold anything.


    in reply to: toss it #293979

    I’ll never understand how this rumor got started!!!

    Freezing ruins the paint on the brush, AND takes time for bristles to return to a workable consistency.

    Wrap tightly and use the Refridgerator!!

    What brand/series is your brush?


    in reply to: deck #292873

    If you blast away at it with a p/washer, you’ll be buying a new deck anyway cuz you just ruined the wood!

    For the main walking area…

    Rent a 12″ x 18″ vibrating-plate sander.
    * Buy a couple of backer pads,
    * Get a half-dozen 60-grit sanding-sheets.
    * Optional…finish with a pass or two of 80-grit.
    * Sand with the direction of the lumber,’till wood looks even and smooth.
    * Vacuum all dust off, then wipe with paint-thinner.

    NOW…you’ve basically got NEW wood that will absorb & hold stain evenly!!
    >>> All old, degraded wood is a memory now.


    in reply to: Paint Prep #292110

    Sorry about the difficulties you’re having!

    Yes, chalking paint can ruin the adhesion of even top-notch primers, etc.
    * Try the P/W on some of it, to see how easily the paint will come off.
    * Zinsser’s Jomax cleaner is decent for exteriors.
    * Pump-spray the Jomax on the house…from the bottom-up.
    * Usually, bad chalking needs to be scrubbed-off…probably with a long wand, like a car-washing pole.
    * Scrub from bottom-up too!
    * Now you can haul out the pressure-washer!!
    * Don’t have pressure too high (less than 1,000 psi!!), or you’re destroying the substrate; and keep the tip a foor away.
    * Drytime…hmmmm…you’re driving water into wall…probably a WEEK or more!!
    * Rinse from top-down.

    Finally ready for a top-notch primer!!!
    * Buy the best Exterior Latex you can find…C2 Exterior, ACE-Royal, Good-‘ol 123, etc.
    * Same thing with the Topcoats…THE BEST LATEX you can afford. Don’t spend under $20/gal.
    * 2 FULL COATS…nothing less.
    * This may raise some eyebrows, but I’d use a Satin-sheen for the main body. Flats hold dirt too easily, especially on Stucco.

    Good luck Buddy!
    Keep us posted…


    in reply to: deck #291766

    Because it’s a soft wood like Pine,
    AND it was basically destroyed by pressure-washing…
    Sanding is now the only option.

    Forget the harsh strippers!
    * All you’ll have is a stripped, ruined deck surface!
    * Any pressure-washing over 500 psi will gouge/shred soft cellulose fibers.
    * They won’t hold anything now.
    * Sanding renews wood…in the sense that the shredded-wood is sheared away, leaving strong/open wood cell-structures that will HOLD stain evenly.
    * Your deck is too low to consider a solid paint or stain…too much moisture near the ground.
    * Use a semi-transparent Oil. These breath better.
    * Think of (sanding) it as a “skin peel”! EXACT same principal!


    in reply to: Behr stain ruined our deck! #291734

    Hi Monica,
    Your deck isn’t ruined…just the stain releasing from the wood.
    Some questions 1st though…
    * How high off the ground is your deck?
    * What species of wood?
    * How old is it?
    * How has it been cleaned b4?
    * What stains have been used b4?

    The easiest way (believe it or not…) to change stains is to sand off existing stain.
    * Rent a vibrating-plate sander, usually a 12″ x 18″ sanding-plate on the bottom.
    * You have to buy a couple of sanding backer-pads & the actual sanding-sheets.
    * Use 80-grit sheets.

    Lemme know the info. asked above.


    in reply to: Tearing down plaster and replacing with drywall #291440

    There is almost automatically Lead in the old paints.
    This has to be removed by licensed contractors!!
    You can’t do it on a “piece-meal” basis, or you’re constantly having to re-seal areas off.

    Same with Electrical…can’t be done room-by-room. You may be able to do a “floor” at a time, but with all the ducting, etc., etc., to be run…you’re talking some SERIOUS $$$ HERE….

    You MAY pay for this home twice-over…
    * New insulation, New wiring…
    * Asbestos and/or Lead removal…
    * Probable new ducting/heating supply…
    * New Primers, paints…..

    A lot ahead of you!


    in reply to: Paint #291380

    I often (mistakenly!!) call any small knife a “putty-knife”!!

    Yes….a 1″ scraper typically has a “angled/chisel” end to it. Better for slicing under paint edges.


Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 141 total)