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You HAVE to hire this done by a qualified crew!!! There are regulations about how they dispose of the removed material…LEGALLY.
*** There are good strippers out there, usually a penetrating liquid, so as not to “aerosolize” any lead.
*** Call contractors and get some bids. Don’t take this lightly! It’s a BIG job, and has to be done right. Don’t put yourself through it.
Thanks!
FaronEven if there was wallpaper previously, you have to remove the peeling paint, because it will “shield” any primer/sealer from adhering to the substrate.
*** I hate to say it, but sand the flaky stuff off the walls, using a drywall sanding screen.
*** Rinse off the sanding dust well, and any wallpaper glue. When that’s DRY…
*** Use the Shellac-based primer from Zinsser. It’s kinda smelly, but the best product for this use. You can’t clean this stuff off a roller, so just toss it…BUT use top-quality equipment though!!!
*** Now your ready for TWO coats of (preferably) Semi-gloss paint.
*** Follow these steps and you should get a great result.
Thanks!
FaronI’d have to agree with Dodgeman. That’s gonna be a bit of work to sand all that! Depending on estimates, you may be better off hiring a drywall/plasterer to do a “skimcoat” or two over your walls, as this takes a practiced touch to get it right!! Get references too!!
*** Note…for best results- PRIME the room before AND after (when the skimcoat is WELL dried out), then TWO coats of the paint color, even if it’s white.
*** If you intend to use a deep burgundy/similiar color, use a GRAY primer on top of the skimcoat.
Good luck!
FaronYes, Yes…you MUST buy top-of-the-line products for TOP results!!
*** Also…DO NOT forget to prime!! It’s more important than you think for good paint adhesion, & eveness of the sheen.
*** If using deep colors like burgundy’s & reds, you HAVE to use a gray primer, & 3 coats of the actual color.
*** Even if you’re using plain old white…prime first, then TWO coats of paint.
This always produces the best results…assuming clean, sound walls/substrates. Use TSP as your wall cleaner, then rinse well, let dry, & prime away!
Thanks!
FaronHello from Fargo, ND USA!!!
*** We’ve still got some snow on the ground up here…I s’pose you guys are about 85 degrees?!
*** If you’re painting your new walls, MAKE SURE you prime the entire room. Your paint sheens will be WAY off if you don’t. Use 2 coats of finish color, even if it’s white.
*** If using a deep color like Navy Blue or a Burgundy, you MUST put on a gray primer, then 3 coats of the color.
*** If using a spray-on texture, prime BEFORE AND AFTER its done. THEN 2 coats of paint.
Thanks! (and hello again from “snowland”!)
FaronI’ve made a lot of “Wicker Rocker” the last few years. It’s a nice color, BUT it hasn’t been in the last couple of RL color collections.
We kept our older RL formula notebooks (going back about 6 yrs.), however…there’s a new problem!
RL just changed the bases themselves, so many of the most popular colors have slightly different formulas than before.
*** Bottom line…Old formulas won’t make the same color in this new base. The price of progress I s’pose!!
If you can find cans with base numbering like 1591, 1291, 1191, etc., We could get the formula. The “eggshell” sheen had the 1591 # for the brilliant white base.
In the newest base, the base numbering is 3591, 3291, 3191, etc. Also, the lid now says “Exceptional Quality”.
*** Sorry to burst your bubble
Thanks,
Faron (@ a Fargo, ND ACE store)Sorry I didn’t re-read this thread earlier!!
If you want a SMOOTH wall to repaint, you may have to hire a Pro to “skim-coat” your wall(s). You could do it yourself, but it can be tricky to avoid “wavy” spots. Check for painters/plasterers in your area, or at your paint stores.
** Ask if they prefer to use PLASTER or Drywall compound. Plaster will have to dry for MANY days before priming over, depending how thick the plaster has to be.
** Priming BEFORE AND AFTER these skimcoat(s) is BEST.
** See what a few estimates are. Paying for a quality job is never dumb! YOU have to look at the wall everyday after all!
** The EASIEST way?>>>> Just keep your textured wall, prime it, put on TWO finish coats, and enjoy!
Thanks,
FaronYES, YES, you DO HAVE TO prime…Use a “stain-blocking” primer, such as the shellac-based 123 primer by Zinsser; Or, any top-line latex (water-base) product by KILZ or similiar.
** You may have to SAND some glue bits off. Give your walls a very close eye from different angles to spot bumps.
** Do 2 or 3 rinses with water, let dry for a day, then prime.
** Put on TWO coats of your finish color, preferably the SEMI-GLOSS sheen to best resist moisture penetration.
** Use TOP-LINE rollers/brushes!!! I can’t stress this enough. $4-$5 for a roller, and $10-$15 for a brush isn’t out of the question. That’s how the PRO’S do it…they want to get good references! Awfully wordy here, but it’ll help!
FaronWow…I always get a little leery when I hear someone wanting to do this! I hope to God your not doing a FLOOR! Wall-tile is OK to do ONLY IF you use a Shellac-base primer such as BIN by Zinsser co.
** Then use 2 coats of a Semi-gloss paint.
** Use a good quality roller for the primer & Paint.
** Throw the primer-roller away. You CAN’T clean it after using this primer.
** I hope you’re not painting in a shower-stall itself! NOT good results usually.
Thanks!
FaronI have to agree with “Fred”!
You do have to strip off the finish (I like the Back-to-Nature stripper), sand to perfection, probably re-stain the panels, then put on a few coats (3 preferably) of polyurethane.
You’ll be out of the kitchen for a week!!!
Thanks!
FaronSammy, you’ll probably have to call a siding contractor to have a look at exactly how it was fastened.
What area of the country do ya live?
Thanks,
FaronYou betcha! Altough “ohferd” also needs to do the 3 coats of “mud” over his taped joints & nail-holes, each one feathered-out a little farther than the previous one.
** Then, comes the real fun!!! SANDING all the joints/nailholes with drywall sanding screens. This is a VERY dusty step…But VERY necessary to have a smooth wall.
** Make DA*N sure you prime the wall before you paint it!!
Thanks!
FaronCan you provide some more details about these areas?
** Such as…Plaster or drywall walls in the house, age of home, remodeling done near these areas, past repairs by these doorways, & paint colors??
** Is the foundation near these doors in good shape, or cracking seen nearby?
** Is the ground sloping TOWARD or AWAY from the affected walls??
** Any water leaks on nearby walls??
Let me know!
FaronWhen you say “textured” walls…do you mean the “orange-peel” type of texture (some call it spatter-finish), a “sandy/gritty” surface, or is it a heavier stuccco/knockdown-plaster look?
*** What color are the wall(s)??
*** Why do you want to “remove” the paint??
*** Are you going to repaint, or put up wallpaper??
>>> First of all, DON’T use any kind of stripper on the walls!!!!
If you’re gonna paint again, you MUST prime the walls, then put on TWO coats of your finish color.
>>> Let me know more details if you want…Lately, I try to check this b-board every day.
Thanks!
Faron (PS-I’ve worked in a paint store for a few years, & heard all the horror stories!)Kinda depends on what type of primer…
** Some stain-blocking latex’s are tougher to get off, but the sooner you scrub with warm/soapy water the better!
** Oil paints…usually paint thinner, followed by the above.
** If you were using the Shellac-based Zinsser BIN…good luck! The lac resin in this is carried in an alcohol suspension. Try some ammonia on your fingers, or maybe paint thinner. It’s tough to get off…but that’s why it’s such a damn good primer!
Hope you “come clean”?!
Faron
