[Faron79]

Short & sweet here…
No tape = cracking! It’s kinda like the re-bar mesh used in concrete. The tape give the mud something to bind to in addition to the actual drywall.

Faron

[Faron79]

I haven’t made any changes for months, & my AOL Security Edition SE & XPsp2 display everything fine. Thankfully!
Faron

[Faron79]

Hi Guys,
Different caulks need varying “cure-out” times b4 a primer film can adequately adhere. It’s often a day or more to fully gas-off.

Thanks,
Faron

[Faron79]

Hi Pam,
Depending on the age of your deck, the BEST prep is to rent a 12″x18″ vibrating-plate sander & sand all exising stuff off the walking area.
This does 3 VERY IMPORTANT things…
1) Strips coating with no harsh strippers to worry about, AND
2) EVENLY removes crushed/fuzzed wood fibers which can’t hold a stain/paint anymore anyway!
3) Leaves structurally sound, NON-degraded wood fibers open to accept AND HOLD new stains/paints.

I have an 11-yr-old Redwood deck facing west, 0 shade. Two years ago I rented the plate sander, bought 2 80-grit sanding sheets, a 1″ thick sanding backer pad, and sanded with the board direction.
>> Keep sanding till surface is clean & even looking.
>> Sweep/vacuum off ALL dust…then a quick wipe with paint thinner.
>> For handrails/steps, use a palm-sander/mouse-style sander.
>> PRESSURE-WASHERS CAN DO MORE HARM THAN GOOD!! If cleaning with one, keep the tip a foot away, & pressure down to ~500psi. Otherwise, you’re just destroying the surface fibers/cellulose structure. Sure it’ll be “clean”, but basically destroyed for the purpose of holding stain/paint.

Because my deck is Redwood (which you can’t buy anymore…unless you mortgage your house again…!), I used Sikkens SRD “Redwood” color deck stain.
>> I DO have to clean (not sand though!) & recoat this year. Even the best finishes need recoating every 2-5 yrs.
>> Visit nam.sikkens.com for excellent wood care advice/cleaning-regimens.
>> You solve a LOT of problems by sanding. Otherwise people are just cleaning and re-staining crappy wood fibers that will soon fail regardless of what’s applied!!

Any ?’s…post back here!
Faron

[Faron79]

Hi KM,
We tint a lot of RL-product where I work (NOT a big-box store!!). If you can find a RL retailer near you, AND if they’ve saved the older fandecks (from ~2000-2005), you could have them match the color into your chosen paint line.
>>> Couple of notes though…
* If using RL paint…RL (like many other paint co.’s) periodically change bases, & some formula’s from time-to-time.
* Since Barn Red isn’t in the current electronic fandeck, you’d have to use the pre-2005 formula in the NEW base, numbered as 3xxx. Older bases were 1xxx.
* Since 2005, RL increased the sheens slightly in each base, along with other slight changes…Sooo you COULD use an old formula in the new base, but the color will be SLIGHTLY different.
* Use a GRAY primer under this or ANY deep red!!! TWO coats minimum of red about 4~5 hrs. apart.

Thanks,
Faron

[Faron79]

Hi Rascal,
1) What do you mean by “the walls are uneven in spots now”?? Physically, or coverage-wise?
2) Exactly what primer did you apply?

If you have “physical” uneveness on the wall, sanding is the only answer. Whether manually, or using a mouse.
** Rinse all dust off & let dry.
** Find & apply GARDZ by Zinsser. This primer penetrates & locks down pastes, etc.
** Then, TWO coats of finish-color!

Good luck,
Faron

[Faron79]

“Overworked” also had a reply (on Sunday the 11th) where he stated “I don’t stick my fingers in p**p to check the temperature…”; in reference to a toilet issue.
(hint: the middle two letters were o’s)

Come on here…how’s that kind of “bovine-scatology” appropriate??!! There were some other rambling, incomprehensible posts too.

Thanks for your attention Moderators,
Faron

[Faron79]

Keith,
Did your painter use the “stringy” RL-roller to apply it? It’s made specifically for the Metallic paint.
* Firstly; If it wasn’t used, that paint is hard to apply correctly! I know…our store sells a lot of RL paint, including metallics.
* Secondly; this particular paint doesn’t have any “sheen” to resist the moisture in a Bath.
* You’ll have to apply a couple coats of a Latex “Dead-flat-Varnish” to protect the metallic.
* This metallic is a nice paint! Just not for water-use areas, or kids rooms!!

Thanks,
Faron

[Faron79]

Was there any staining on the walls when you first saw the room?
>> Was it ever wallpapered?
>> Is there a bath-fan, & where does it vent to?
>> Are the stains scattered across the walls, or just one or two spots?

My prelim. guess is that it’s wallpaper glue bleeding through.
>> Did you prime b4 painting…if so EXACTLY what kind/brand?
>> What brand/series/color of paint?

Thanks!
Faron

[Faron79]

I’m not trying to ridicule here, but this would be a he*l of an expense and mess just to gain a foot or less!!
>> Is floor all concrete?
>> Get a PRO down there first for structural concerns-mainly at the wall/floor joint.
>> Personally, I don’t think this would remotely be worth the expense!
Faron

[Faron79]

Can you please be a little clearer on your situation?
>> How old is the home?
>> If older, is the bathroom area drywall or older lath & plaster?
>> How many walls is this present on?
>> What is the painting/priming history?
>> Has any wallpaper been removed or painted over?
>> Are any areas soft/spongy?

Let us know to help narrow down causes.
Thanks!
Faron

[Faron79]

Yes Lemon…,
A clear shellac finish might look better than a paint job. If desired, sand lightly with 220-grit, vacuum/tack-cloth off the dust, and follow Rocket’s advice.
2 choices then:
>> Solid paint color, or
>> The varnish/shellac look.
Faron

[Faron79]

Should only take a day. If you can, prop a small-box fan in a window blowing out. Seal the opening around the fan with plastic so no air comes IN that window. Have another window open for the fresh-air “inlet”, and the “fan” window as your sealed outlet.
The odor isn’t THAT bad anyway!
Faron

[Faron79]

Find a Home-inspector/foundation expert before demo-ing further.
>>> Is this a full-basement?
>>> How old is the structure?
>>> Was there any mold on the backside of any panels?
>>> Was any plastic vapor-barrier used behind or in-front of the studding?? You NEED to have this done when re-doing the rooms.
>>> Another factor in foundation protection is the slope of your ground at the house, and the extensions of your gutters into the yard. get them out 6′ at least!!
>>> My house is only 10yrs. old, and I’ve added over 2 YARDS of dirt on only 2 sides! I tamped it all down well (Advil by the case…), laid out plastic, and added rose-quartz rock with edging. Now I’ve got a nice slope away from the foundation out to 5′.
Faron

[Faron79]

Sorry, I should’a seen that! YES it’s just fine to do that. Again, you’ll need 2 coats of BIN. Ventilate the room well when applying BIN. My throat got kinda dry when I was using it, but that’s a good excuse for a “refreshment” break!
Faron

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