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WOW!! I wish you guys would’ve come to our store! (East-central ND)
That “contactor” doesn’t know SQUAT about wallpaper projects!!
** Just the stripping alone can take a day…especially if no sizing was used under the paper. If the paper is a decade or more old…have the Aleve handy!
** After the paper is off, the walls have to be rinsed to make sure all glue bits are off.
** The next day, when the walls are DRY, a stain-blocking primer MUST be used to prevent any bleed-through of unseen glue remnants. Preferably, the Shellac-based primer from Zinsser.
** NOW the walls can be spatter-textured. If using the spray-cans, it could take a dozen cans…they don’t go very far! >> I would’ve hired a traditional texture-sprayer.
Lots of taping off areas with plastic, but there’s no neat solution when re-texturing.
** This texture needs to dry for a DAY…then prime AGAIN with any latex primer, and do 2 coats of paint. Preferably Semi-gloss in a bathroom! If using a deep Red or Wine color, a grey primer must be used, plus 3 coats of the color.
** Also, use TOP-QUALITY rollers/brushes. DO NOT skimp with your painting tools.
I hope this info. helps with any future projects!
FaronI mix/sell a lot of RL paint at the Hardware store where I’ve worked for a few years. If they’re painting with ANY bright/deep red/burgundy, we don’t let them out the door without a grey primer too!! We use a medium-grey primer, and insist they put on 2 coats MINIMUM…sometimes 3 of any red.
Also…use TOP-quality rollers & brushes.
Some “painters'” know these facts, some don’t!!
Thanks,
FaronHi there! You’ll need to rinse/sand off any residual glue that remains. When you’re pretty sure you’ve got it all, let dry for a day, then prime with a STAIN-BLOCKING Primer, OR “BIN 123” by Zinsser. The “BIN” is kind of smelly (alcohol based), but it’s the best choice. Reason: it has shellac resin in it, which does a superior job of “locking-out” any teeny bits of glue from bleeding through the primer/paint films.
If you’ll use a light paint color, white primer is fine…If using a DARK color like Burgundy – use a GRAY primer followed by 3 COATS of the DEEP color. 2 COATS of a light color.
This’ll help!
Faron (see some of my other posts, or Mr. Paint’s)Hi Guys! Just a note to concur with Mr. Paint. At our hardware (NOT Home Depot or Lowe’s!!) store in Fargo, ND, we’ve always used a medium/dark gray under our RL (or ACE ROYAL & BEHR lines) reds/burgundy’s with great success. I can’t even count the # of gallons of Ralph’s “Kilim Red, Balmoral Red, etc.” that I’ve made the last 4 years! We’ve usually counseled clients to put on 3 coats of these kinds of Reds – even over the gray – in strongly lit areas, or high-wear areas like kitchens or an entry. It’s just extra insurance for a quality job because these bases are so transparent…sometimes with up to 12 oz. of Red &/or Violet colorants.
Thanks!
FaronYes you do need to prime! I’ve worked in a paint store for a few years, & priming is VERY important for good adhesion of the TWO topcoats of paint you’ll put over the primer.
If you’re using a light color, a white primer is fine, but if you’re using a dark color like burgundy, you have to use GRAY primer followed by 3 coats of the red/burgundy.
Fill nailholes first, sand any rough spots when filler is dry, prime, then finally…the topcoats of paint!
Thanks,
FaronPlease don’t give out formula’s online! I believe they are for business use only. I’ve noticed some incorrect formulas in some of the postings here before, & would hate to have someone get a goofed-up color from someone transcribing a letter or number wrong.
Also, there are obviously Quart & Gallon formulas! I’ve made a lot of RL paint, & sometimes cringe at the bad advice out there…whether it’s misconceptions, or just plain ignorance.
