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For any new coatings to adhere, what they’re applied TO makes all the difference!
Use a narrow scraping putty-knife, and gently scrape loose paint off.
Next…get out the sanding-sponges!
* Start with a 100-grit to sand quickly through all degraded wood/paint.
* When down to a sound wood-layer, sand again with 150-grit, then finish with a 220.
* Remove ALL dust.NOW you’ve got a good, sound, smooth surface that will HOLD ONTO new paint!
* Use a top-notch Latex primer applied with a GOOD brush.
* 3 hours later, inspect your primer well. If ya notice any lingering roughness, primer-runs, etc., wait a few more hours so primer will sand well. Use the 220-grit sponge.
* Remove dust and prime again. Inspect smoothness again.
* If smooth, you’re ready for TWO full coats of a QUALITY interior Semi-gloss LATEX paint.
* Check out ACE’s new Cabinet, Door & Trim paint…this stuff’s nice!
* Let paint cure 2 days b4 a load of steam hits it. Full cure takes a month.Oil paints are irrelevant now, and soon will be extinct. Modern 100% Acrylic-Latex paints are so good now, that oils aren’t needed.
Faron
If that wall is soft, it’s gonna have to go!
Cut a small square through the wall…maybe 6″ x 6″…in a soft area. Use a flashlight to inspect the wall cavity for other damage. Also study the back of the removed piece. Stick a mirror through the opening too.If even ONE moldy area is found back there, replace that whole wall section with “greenboard” wallboard.
* Install or improve the bathfan capabilities. Make SURE it’s vented OUTSIDE, and not into the attic!!!
* Inspect studs for other water-leak sources…coming from roof leaks, pipe leaks, etc.Sorry…but a squishy wall is NEVER a good sign!
Faron
If the home is THAT badly constructed, consider the harsh reality that you may have to throw more $$$ into it, than the house is worth.
The foundation/flooring itself may need to be re-built…then the roof has to be replaced….
These are LARGE expenses, and cause major time/mess to put up with. I’m sorry, but maybe moving IS the best option. They are NOT easy fixes if you’re not hiring anyone.
Faron
Hello!
Peeling can be caused by a number of factors…whether alone, or all-at-once.
* “Chalking” of old paint if not cleaned off WELL.
* Existing paint was letting-go anyway…
* Age of existing paint,
* Moisture problems behind the claps,
* Excess moisture inside house…
* Applied in “too cool” weather…
The list goes on…If it’s an older home, the possibilities-list can be very long.
So…please provide a “background” of your homes’ paint/siding history…
What exact prep was done (or NOT done!), how big an area involved, and exact brand/types of paint and primer used.(Some older oil-base paints, that aren’t well-adhered anymore, can literally be pulled off the substrate due to the “pulling” nature of modern Latex paints!)
>>> If the peeled-off paint is a different color on the backside, that means your old paint has just “let go”, and needs to be removed.Faron
Hi guys,
* Use a thicker nap TOP-QUALITY roller…I’d use a 3/4″. Pay attention to fully re-loading the roller each time.At least you primed b4 starting!
* Don’t push your coat(s) too thin! Most avg. D-I-Y-ers are guilty of this.
* Your 3/8″ cover isn’t enough nap to properly coat a ceiling.
* If your 1st coat was mainly E & W, apply a FULL 2nd coat going N & S.
* A full 3/4″ roller should only fill-in ~ a 4’x4′ area.
* Once you roll-out, say, a 12’x4′ rectangle, do a long LIGHT-continuous sweep of this area, feathering-out the end. This evens-out sections very nicely. Leave each “open-side” of this rectangle as a light, “feathered” border.Faron
B4 anything…
Wash the walls with Dirtex, & rinse with clean water. Let dry a day.Use a top-quality primer. Apply with good tools/brushes.
Then, 2 full-coats of your paint color.>>> The primecoat is the key here!!!
>>> What color(s) are you using?End of “issue”!
FaronI marvel at the great advice from the Moderators & other advanced DIY-ers here; on subjects from electrical to plumbing. I’m very much a novice there!
But Paint? I can at least hold my own in that small subject area!
Faron
…Is in your correction-post!
If you meant your primer was applied with a brush…Brushes can’t lay down an even, full coat if you’re doing a wall surface.
* Primer should’ve been applied with a roller….a good full coat.
* This would’ve stopped the variance in sheen/color at these seams.
* Then two full coats of paint.
* I normally reload (I know you’re using the paintstick) a traditional roller 4 FULL times in a 8′ x 3′ “column” on the wall.
* Then, a LIGHT, vertical-sweep, from ceiling-to-floor over what you just did, evens-out all the roller-turns, thin-spots, etc. Don’t reload for this step though. ALL “sweep”-passes…ceiling-to-floor.>>> Your paint is a white-base I think. These have the best “hide”, or opacity. Your coats might’ve been pushed too thin, on a “too thin” primer.
Faron
Hi Cerny,
1) Exactly what brand, sheen, series-name, & color did you use for paint & primer?
2) What tint-base is mentioned on the bottom-front of the can?
3) What brand/model roller-sleeves/brushes were used?There’s a reason I ask!
Faron
Shannon,
> What exactly is on your ceiling now???
> Is the existing paint well-adhered??
> Are there any existing problems?
> Age of existing paint, etc., ??
> Is there a bath-fan??Faron
I’m NOT an energy pro, but I turn our central-air on when we leave b4 8am, if temps over 90 are expected.
* If we don’t turn it on then, it takes A WHILE to cool the house down!!
* I’m NOT gonna come home to a stuffy house and wait an hour to haul the temp down a little!
* Compressor has to run a long time to haul the temp down enough, because the warm air builds all day.
* By not letting it get as warm inside IN THE FIRST PLACE, it doesn’t seem to run as much after 5pm.
* We have a dog at home too though, but someone comes home at lunch to let her out, and adjust the temp if needed.Faron
Use a sanding sponge in the 180-grit area. It’ll be tedious, but you’d be surprised how little a ridge will show through to new paint film!
* Make sure you prime after all the sanding! Remove all dust first, then prime.
* Once the primecoat is dry, inspect wall very closely, at different angles, to find other flaws/ridges leftover. Repair/sand again as needed, and brush on a hazy coat of primer on these areas.
* Finally…ready for 2 full coats of paint!!Faron
Call around to some paint/decorating centers, and inquire about Modern-Masters or McClosky “Dead-Flat Varnish”.
* It’s not cheap normally…~$45/gal…but the HIGH-quality Latex finishes that are FLAT aren’t cheap!!!
* You could use RL Suede in a master-bath, cover it in 2 coats of this stuff, and you’d hardly notice it was there!
* Check into this…it’ll be worth it!Faron
Hi Dave,
Enough degradation has occured that it doesn’t matter if it’s clean or not. It won’t hold stain NEARLY as good as it could’ve.
The Remedy:
* Rent a vibrating-plate sander. It’ll prob’ly use 12×18″ sanding sheets, which stick onto a fiber backing-pad.
* Obviously, it’s only usable on the main deck area. Use a ROM-sander for handrail-tops/steps.
* You might have to start out with a couple 60-grit sheets. Make a final pass or two with 80-grit.
* Vacuum off ALL dust, and do a light wipe with paint-thinner.>>> NOW you’ve basically got a new deck again!!
* Because you sanded, degraded wood is gone, leaving strong, open wood fibers that will absorb & HOLD stain!!
* There’s no magic stain though! If your deck has little shade, you’ll have to lightly recoat every 3-4 years…
* Low decks have the toughest time. Water-vapor from soil goes straight up into the wood, trying to “push-off” stains.
* We go through a LOT of Sikkens where I work. Very good stuff…use the SRD (Siding/Roof/Deck) line. It’ a 1-coat penetrating OIL with no sheen.This’ll help!
FaronUsing Kilz to “help” would be like shutting the door to stop a tornado from hitting your house!
* I’m not trying to be gloom&doom here, but this could be serious!
* Older homes have settled wall insulation, unseen leaks, etc., etc.
* The North side rarely receives much sun to keep things dryer.
* Therefore water-vapor transmission is pretty heavy in these situations…which only feeds the mold.
* Have an inspector do some tests in a few areas…prob’ly has to drill a couple holes here & there.
* It’s entirely possible you may have to tear out these walls. There’s no other method to clean INSIDE the walls.Here’s hoping!
Faron
