Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Wow! great info. there HarryC!
I’m sure if they hired a Home-Inspector, &/or a structural engineer who deals in these matters, they’d be better off…right?
I couldn’t tell ya what it would cost for the hiring, but a phone-call would help.
FaronLynda,
I could’a sworn it was this year! You are correct. I checked my magazine I still had. All the info. in this mag. is usually laid out so well, with great photos.
They usually have a back-issue order phone# somewhere. Pick up a copy/check internet.
Good luck!
FaronLynda,
Check out “The Family Handyman” magazine. Recently, they had a VERY detailed story about your EXACT conversion. Great pix and other details. Check on internet or library for back-issues.
>>> I’ve found this mag very helpful for many things.
Thanks!
FaronHi Guys!
“Grading” is adding dirt/other fill next to your foundation edges, so the water runs AWAY from the house.
>>> This can take a LOT of dirt! Over the years, dirt next to the house will settle a lot, since it was once disturbed to dig the initial basement (if any).
>>> How extensive was this addition? Did you do it yourself? Did you have to excavate very far along the “old” foundation?
“Tiling” is kind of a weird description, but it refers to “Drain Tile”, which is actually a round black tube with holes in it. This “drain tile” is placed at the bottom of the foundation, on the OUTSIDE, and dirt is backfilled on top. If you have a full story below ground, this tile/tube should skirt the whole perimeter of the foundation at its base.
Water then drains into this tube, flows around the home, and drains into a “sump hole”. This “sump-pit” is just INSIDE your home. A “Sump Pump” will pump the water out of the pit into PVC pipe, and routed out of the home. Usually a long hose is needed to get the water well away from the house.
>>> Being you were “told to tile” kind of concerns me…A decent contractor should’ve at least advised this! Where do you live?
Thanks!
FaronHi All,
You could probably go with Slate, if some patio-installers in your area say it would be durable enough.
>>> How the slate (or whatever flat stonework is used) is textured (rough or dead-smooth) might determine how you have to tamp each piece into the sand base for solid contact.
>>> Some slate can fracture easy!!
>>> Inquire at your nearest patio installer…IF they have brick/stone patio’s as a main part of their business!
>>> Getting a decent base ready can get difficult. I know…I’m digging out for a brick paver-stone patio in front of a 22′ x 5′ 3-level retaining wall for roses/flowers.
>>> My wheelbarrow is groaning loudly…and so am I…thank God for Motrin…
Thanks!
FaronExcellent stuff Giddaymate!! It seems too easy…! I s’pose “Myths” would potentially need a few (??) concrete bits and some water to periodically cool the bits??
>>> Any decent Home center should have these/similiar wedge-bolts.
>>> Would he/she need a percussion/hammer-drill too?
Thanks guys,
Faron (Fargo, ND)Hi guys, Maybe you were aware anyway, but…
you have to prime the walls with a good STAIN-BLOCKING primer such as BIN primer from Zinsser, or a KILZ Oil-based primer. Latex “stain-blocking” versions are a good second-choice.
>>> These primers are mandatory…you’ll probably have glue bleeding through if you don’t do this step.
>>> After all the glue is removed, AND the wall is rinsed a couple times and DRY…then you can prime. Then TWO topcoats of your paint color.
Thanks,
FaronPaint is too cheap to mess with. Like milk, you can’t “unsour” it!! Adding vanilla…wow, that’s a good one!
Thanks,
FaronWow! That’s a new one (to ME anyway…!)
What do you mean by a “locker system”?
What kind of subfloor are we talking?
Is this in your home/what level is it on?
>>> more info. please.
Sounds a little risky so far…
Thanks,
FaronHi guys!
First…Latex over Oil works just fine.
HOWEVER…The surface you’re painting has got to be in paintable condition!
>>> This means: Washed, rinsed, dry, & sound (no flaking, peeling, chalky), and any holes filled.
>>> Are you painting inside or outside? Use appropriate paints/primers. Many are only for INSIDE use. Some can do double-duty.
>>> Any ?’s…just post on this thread and I’ll help you out!
Thanks,
FaronAbsolutely right Thiggy! Also, if you’re VERY fussy about the look of the smoothness of the door, SAND the primer when it’s very dry.
>>> Wait about 5 hrs. (DOUBLE this time if using OIL primer) b4 sanding. Use 220 grit paper. Remove all sanding dust.
>>> Now use 2 coats about 3 hrs. apart of your topcoat. Use TOP-quality brushes…I mean $10 to $15 for ONE brush here! Make sure it’s for LATEX paint if that’s what you’re using.
>>> You CAN coat oil primer with latex paint just fine.
Hope this helps!
FaronRichard,
JayJ hit it on the head. There are lots of good paints out there…just specify that you want “company X’s” BEST interior paint line. Then, go by color. Next, use the correct “Sheen” (shine level) for the room/use.
>>> IDEALLY, you’ll use a good interior primer b4 you paint!! Primers eliminate uneven absorption of the paint layers, which dulls the sheen in some areas. You DO want a uniform appearance don’t you??
>>> So…if you’re painting a bathroom, wash the walls, Prime, and apply 2 topcoats of Semi-gloss paint 3 hrs. apart (longer for deep colors).
Sorry Richard, there’s no such thing as a TOP-quality 1-coat paint. We used to have a Behr “1-coat” line but dropped it ‘cuz it just wasn’t very good.
Thanks,
FaronDON’T use Muriatic-acid!! It’s normally used for etching/cleaning bare concrete to prepare it for Garage-floor paints, etc.
NO, the house doesn’t need to be stripped-good news! Paint that’s well-adhered is fine to leave on.
YES it does need to be pressure-washed to remove surface dirt, etc. Let dry a few DAYS…concrete block can hold water for a while!
>>> Do you have wood-trim to be painted too? If so, don’t pressure-wash it too close! Scrape & sand it though.
>>> Now, use a TOP-quality LATEX Exterior Primer. If you’re using a very dark color, have the primer tinted GRAY per the tinting limits on the can.
>>> Next, 2 coats of your actual exterior paint about 3 hours apart-assuming a good drying day…5 to 6 hours apart for the real dark colors (lotsa colorant takes much longer to dry).
Thanks!
FaronIs your wall itself cracked?
Or, did you have a coat of new paint over the paste which cracked?
>>> IF you haven’t painted yet…
* Rinse off the wall thouroughly with water a couple times & let dry.
* Repair cracks/nail-holes with drywall mud & let dry. Feather-sand any ridges in these repairs. Remove any sanding dust.
* Spot-prime the repairs with a STAIN-BLOCKING PRIMER…Such as the Shellac-based BIN from Zinsser, or any Oil-based stain-blocker from another manuf.
* When spot-priming is dry…prime the WHOLE WALL(S). This’ll leave 2 primer-coats on the repairs.
NOW you’re ready to paint!!
>>> Because it’s a bathroom, USE A SATIN or SEMI-GLOSS sheen of paint…2 coats about 3 hours apart is mandatory. If you’re using a dark burgundy, have your paint store tint the primer with Black colorant to the limit the primer will handle…USUALLY 2 ounces for most (per gallon anyway).
This’ll help!
FaronI’ve been in paint for a few years, learning under a VERY knowledgeable paint-man.
>>> There is no “conversion” system from paint samples to a computer file. How it would look in a computer program vs. real-life on someone’s walls isn’t even realistic.
>>> Dried liquid paint reflects light in subtle ways a computer can never show.
>>> I’ve dealt with colors from ACE Royal, Behr, & Ralph Lauren; and used some colors in “room-simulation” programs, but it usually looks so hokey. It’s only a rough guide.
Sorry!
Faron
