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Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 613 total)
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  • in reply to: rotting Vetter windows #266634
    Anonymous
    Participant

    I am working on an investigation regarding claims on behalf of home owners with Vetter windows and am very interested in speaking with you about this matter.

    Thank you greatly!

    in reply to: My Crestline Windows are JUNK too! #266633
    Anonymous
    Participant

    I am working on an investigation regarding claims on behalf of home owners with Crestline windows. I am curious to know if you ever reached a resolution regarding your problems with your windows and would like to talk with you further.

    Thank you!

    in reply to: free 12×12 shed plans #265785
    Anonymous
    Participant

    I’m in need of free 12 x 12 plans/gable roof, thanks.

    in reply to: kenmore stove #264771
    Anonymous
    Participant

    The model # is 911 9358810. Tks Sam

    in reply to: kenmore stove #264749
    Anonymous
    Participant

    I hit the D instead of the S for Sam on the salutation. It should read “Sam”

    in reply to: Moen faucet repair #258925
    Anonymous
    Participant

    The Moen cartridges are usually a challenge to remove if they have gotten stiff. It often means a brass cartridge instead of a plastic one. You will probably need a Moen cartridge puller.
    The main goal after removing the C clip is to get the cartridge to turn before trying to pull. You can use some lubricant but it needs to turn first. The square headed plastic alignment tool, that comes with the new cartridge, is seldom strong enough to turn an old cartridge for removal.
    Another method is after the center of the cartridge comes out you can use a 1/2″ IPS easy out to get the cartridge to turn. The problem with this method is you can ruin the faucet body with an easy out. In plumbing things can always get worse.

    in reply to: tub retile #258823
    Anonymous
    Participant

    Sounds like you have a cast iron tub. Run your concrete board down to the edge of the tub without touching. 1/4″ gap. Fill the space between the backer board and tub with silicone or adhesive caulk. This will allow the bottom portion of the tile to hang down 1/8″ above the tub. The tub and walls will expand and contract at different times so this is a silicone or caulk joint.

    in reply to: my logic of thinking was: #258804
    Anonymous
    Participant

    I certainly agree that Moens get very stiff before they need repair. However, the handle only has to come down 1/4″ to impair the flow and often it is not noticed.
    I’ve thought that the characteristic of loosening instead of stiffing was an affect of the plastic cartridges vs the brass, but this has not proven to be true. In discussion with other plumbers some think that the o-rings have gotten worn and offer less resistance. When we open the easy ones they still have plenty of grease after many years.
    Another effect of Moen’s moving easy after awhile is that they can turn themselves on in homes that have higher pressures.
    Good faucets I like them and they seldom need repair.

    in reply to: tankless water heater venting #258789
    Anonymous
    Participant

    A gravity tank water heater is about 35,000 BTU’s and a tankless can be 150,000. The vent system must handle much hotter gases and you should use the venting specified for that unit.

    in reply to: faucet #258787
    Anonymous
    Participant

    Moen’s will sometimes shut themselves off from the weight of the faucet handle. The center cartridge moves too easily. I wipe off some of the lubricant from the center stem or you can replace the cartridge. They’re about $15.00 but you usually need a special tool that runs from 20. to $50.00.

    in reply to: Tub spout #258740
    Anonymous
    Participant

    Sorry for the language. The part where the water comes out is called the spout. If you have a set screw then the spout will probably relocate closer to the wall. Usually these are on copper pipes but can also be on CPVC pipes.
    Loosen the set screw and see if you can get the spout to turn and if so then push it in tighter to the wall. The set screw does not have to be super tight. Just snug.

    in reply to: RE: crazy #258727
    Anonymous
    Participant

    Sharing returns when you share supplies is common. Particularly on our commercial jobs. The duct work is not the problem it’s your wiring.

    in reply to: Tub water spout #258726
    Anonymous
    Participant

    The spout needs to touch the wall in order to seal. If you have a single handle faucet the escutcheon may have gotten tightened so much it has pulled the valve body forward bringing the spout with it.
    Or, if you have threaded nipples then you may need a different system as they only come in 1/2″ lengths. You can get a nose spout which will allow you to use a coupling to make up the 1/4″ of room.
    If you can’t fix it yourself you should call a plumber because spouts not sealing to the wall ruins the wall and the ceiling below if there is one.

    in reply to: Eutrophication #258725
    Anonymous
    Participant

    Pumping through the attic seems a little strange to me. It may be possible for you to kick out of the house where you want the washing machine and then run around the house and tie it into the main. 1/4″ a foot grade is 1″ for 4 feet . Forty feet would need 10″ of fall which you may have. Don’t forget the vent.

    in reply to: Not A Symptom….. #258723
    Anonymous
    Participant

    I wonder what kind of clamps or pipe you have that you are bending the pipe. You should not indent the pipe with your clamp regardless of kind.

Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 613 total)