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AnonymousParticipant
You should fix it and determine why the tub is cracking. Is it not supported properly? Are you jumping up and down. Fixing this crack may not keep it from cracking more.
AnonymousParticipantCast Iron is a preferred quality. But not Americast or the new tubs that are just a coating on a steel tub that the manufacturers say is as good as cast iron. Real cast iron.
AnonymousParticipantBuilding a 2 x 4 wall would probably be the most reasonable. You could make a glass block end wall but they are more difficult to get installed so they seal and you don’t want to knock the wall down when your kid slams the door open.
AnonymousParticipantThe water needs to stay away from the house and you cannot tie into a sanitary sewer. The underground french drain probably has perforated pipe to allow the surface water to seep into the ground. Normally the water should be gone before it gets to the well. Few in my area have rock basins. Can you extend the underground drain? Does your jurisdiction have storm drains?
AnonymousParticipantChlorine eats rubber. That’s what caused all of our polybutylene pipe failure.
AnonymousParticipantIt’s unlikely there is air in your system. Any air left in a tank when refilling purges in a couple of minutes.
Is your water real hot? Perhaps the thermostat has come loose from it’s housing on the heater. It must be pressed tight to get a good temperatureAnonymousParticipantA backwater valve is a check valve that keeps drainage water from backing up into the structure. A backflow valve is in the water line to prevent water from a contaminated source from backing into the potable water.
If you have a cast iron floor drain you probably have a ball type backwater valve with threads. Cleaning the threads on the floor drain is a chore. A wire brush wheel in a drill helps but you usually have to chase the threads with a pipe dye. It is not easy to do. Be patient and allow a couple of hours.AnonymousParticipantTry a 6″ straight nipple to determine the angle of the threads. You can look through the nipple to see which way you need to go. It’s up and down in addition to sideways.
August 26, 2004 at 10:12 pm in reply to: What type of clamp would you recommend for polybutylene? #250593AnonymousParticipantPolybutylene has only been around the last fifteen years. I cannot imagine a home built in l970 having a lead water service installed. Ask your water or inspection departments about what kind of pipe they think you are likely to have.
Two stainless steel clamps installed in opposite directions on a brass adapter is preferred.AnonymousParticipantNo ice, no water, not freezing, not stop making cubes? If no water your screen into your water valve could be clogged. You could identify the brand and go to their site for more detailed problem solving. Ice makers are not all the same.
AnonymousParticipantRemove the toilet and vanity if you have one. Remove all upper layer wood flooring and if the floor underneath it is bad (I call the flooring attached to the joists sub floor) then remove it also. Repair joists as needed.
AnonymousParticipantYou may want to check the Ceramic Tile Association web site or the johnbridges web site. Installing shower pans takes some skill or luck if you’re not experienced. A leaking pan ruins the whole job.
AnonymousParticipantYou need an electrician. You can also try the manufacturers web site and try to identify the sensor.
AnonymousParticipantI don’t like the no seep wax rings with plastic inserts because I’ve found toilet paper balled up on them after leaving the horn.
Some plumbers in my area are starting to like the fluidmaster seal when they have to reseat a toilet several times. Wax should last a lot longer than 10 years and if you have a warranty claim what do you get? Another one or your few dollars back. In commercial (advertising) speech this kind of warranty could be more of a marketing tool than an indication of expected life.AnonymousParticipantYou must have a fiberglass tub and most manufacturers recommend setting them in mortar.
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