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I would check with the manufacturer’s installation instructions. This sounds like the concrete was not pretreated against moisture and you may not have a qualified contractor. An 1/8″ gap may mean they didn’t get the first run in straight.
You may have an unfortunate situation here that you would not want them to try to do it again.Home inspectors cover many areas and usually don’t have depth in any one area. They identify deficiences in current systems not how to install new systems. Their certifications standards vary greatly from organization to organization and are not like a certified plumber or electrician.
Get bids from different remodeling contractors. It’s a great learning experience and there may be some work appropriate for them to do.I won’t think you would have any more of a water problem than at the side and valve walls. You should not have the treated 2×4 or drywall/concrete board touch the tub. Leave a 1/4″ space so moisture does not leach up into the wall board. Your water proof covering will go down on the tub. Fill the space with good quality silicone. Spend at least $5.00 a tube.
If you can prevent movement of the wall then you should get good life. Over ten years and maybe more.
Don’t give up on your glass idea though. Having light is a good idea. A glass company may have an idea if you get a bid from them.When I close up a bathroom window in order to install a tub surround and I am not changing the outside, I install a plywood board painted black or white so that it appears normal from the exterior. Then I insulate.
You could get bids from different contractors. They will have different experiences and suggestions you can shop from. They will probably want to have a plumber look at your room too.
You have a plumbing problem that needs to be fixed. The source of the sewer flies will continue until you do. Since you rent this is usually an owner’s expense and it may be an expense. Are you on a slab?
I agree with getting a company to evaluate however they often start talking big money right away. It’s like abestos removal with masks, HEPA vacuums and plastic sealed rooms.
Many jurisdiction’s Environmental Health Departments have employees that are trained in this area. Was the house like this when you bought it? Was this disclosed? Most insurance companies are now specifically excluding mold coverage.Would building a wall with the 2 x 4″ flat and hanging over the tub and flush with the outside of the tubs side wall be a possibility.? You would only have the 1/2″ wall board taking away from your 5″ of space. Run one 2×4 outside the tub from floor to ceiling for stability.
Hi willepbuck, yes see the last post in this thread @ http://discussions.tommmymac.us/wwwboard/messages/236431.html
Good Luck!
David Masher
Ceramic can’t be coated without firing to reglaze. Toilets are less than $100.00. Get a Toto that flushes. Not a Kohler or American Standard.
Better check the epa site on elimination and characteristics of different types of mold. Also your local environmental health department. This has become a fad but necessary business the past few years because of legal settlements. Insurance companies are writing exclusions from it because the settlements can be huge. People are affected differently by different kinds of mold. Mold is a normal part of air and does require moisture to live but can become dormant.
Most states have disclosure laws. Check with your consumer protection department or spend a free office call and call an attorney. They can advise on your state law.
You have a responsibility to your mortgage and insurance company.The UPC requires standpipes to be between 18″ and 30″ long above the p trap. Usually this is no higher than 42″ above the floor. Since the drain is already 24″ off the floor then 54″ would be preferred but another 8″ is not bad. The WM pump just works harder.
There should be no fumes. The P trap protects the washingmachine standpipe like the bathtub, lavatory and sink faucets. You should also have a vertical vent pipe that the p trap ties into.
