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Remember that ceramic requires at least 1 1/8″ of flooring under it to eliminate elasticity. Often we do not have this much under carpet.
It is much more difficult to rough in the plumbing for a leg tub than a conventional one. The water supplies are offset and the water supply pipes should only have the threads coming through the floor in order to cover them and the nut with escutcheons. Same with the drain. Also you need to adapt the 1 3/8″ drain to the 1/1/2″ drain threads that are also roughed in just above the floor.
splash guards can help but you need to stop the problem. You may have a shower curtain with an inner liner that someone is not getting closed or your shower door needs to be adjusted or reset?
Sounds more like polybutylene to me. How are the connections made? Plastic would use crimp rings and pinholes are common in PB where the water has high levels of chlorine.
I thought most lead water lines had been replaced. Particularly with the Safe Water Drinking act and all the warnings about lead in the water.The toilet flange has probably come loose from the floor. Pull the toilet and anchor the flange. Usually there is floor damage. You probably can’t see through vinyl.
Call the contractor back. Movement usually causes the cracks but adequate backing should have been used. If you grouted yourself you may have mixed too dry, not packed the grout in tight enough, and/or other factors. Wall or floor would be helpful.
There usually is only three 1/4″ holes on each wall. You can use grout for ceramic or caulk or silicone for other wall covering.
It is not easy to use a sump pump in a crawl space. The drain ditch to the pump closes off with mud as does the pump even in a screened pit. You also need electric.
If you have standing water then fans will not be much help. Do you have adequate crawl space ventilation? If the water isn’t standing then it may only be water seeking it’s own level. The depth of the water line outside is the same inside.The flange should sit on the finished floor using screws or anchors of brass or stainless steel. It is not easy to replace the flange on a slab floor. If plastic you usually need an interior cutting wheel and if cast iron you will need an internal or exterior compression flange after you remove the lead and oakum.
If you keep your flange low you can install a spanner flange (shaped like the letter C) to regain your bolt hole. You will then need flange extenders.You need to replace your flapper or tank ball. They are not all the same so be sure to purchase the correct one.
Hi all, Jen-Weld/Caradco contacted us. Here is what they said.
discussions.tommmymac.us
MESSAGE FROM CARADCO:
Occasionally, a window is installed improperly or improperly maintained. In rare instances there may be a problem with the preparation of a window.
Caradco products have been manufactured for almost 140 years. We take pride in our work and our satisfied customers. If you have concerns about a Caradco product we want to hear from you and we will do everything we can to help.
Caradco products recently became part of the JELD-WEN family. Please contact us at (800) 626-3105 and ask for Greg Braaten (extension 7678) or Bill Wiedman (extension 7604). If you can’t reach them, I am also available at extension 7472. I’ll be glad to help.
Jim Atkins
Warranty Services Manager
JELD-WEN Window DivisionHi there
I just noticed this thread and thought I’d put in my comments.
When testing a receptacle; get yourself one of those little testers with three lights on it for under $10 at the store. It will tell you if the receptacle is live or dead; if it is wired properly and if the receptacle is properly grounded.A multimeter can be used to test for noto only whether or not a receptacle is live, but also the actual voltage that is present.
If you are working with wires, the multimer is also indispensible.You should use the AC Voltage setting and be very careful not to touch exposed metal on the test leads and that the insulation on the meter leads is in good condition.
If the receptacle is ‘dead’, and you think it should be ‘hot’ then check the breakers in your service panel.
If the receptacle is “hot” you should take this opportunity to determine which breaker controls it, and mark this in the electrical panel for future reference.If the receptacle is ‘dead’ but all the breakers are OK, then you’ve got a bit of a problem, because it may indicate damaged wiring or a bad receptacle, and you may expose yourself to the danger of electrical shock by proceeding. I’s get a flashlight, or wait for daylight, and turn off the main breakers to the premises, then remove the cover plate from the receptacle to examine it for a bad connection or damaged wiring. If the problem you are tracing involves more than one receptacle, or includes light fixtures as well, then you’re looking at a problem in a branch circuit. This might occur in a splice point in an electrical box, or in the electrical service panel itself. These are more difficult (dangerous) and judging by your initial question, I’d say this levwl of troubleshooting is not for you.
hope this helpsI replace my old 3-way switch that control my stairway lighting. The unit works only on when the upstairs 3-way switch is activated downward that i can put off the light down stairs, dut the upstairs switch in the upward direction ,i cannot put-on the light downstairs.
I need at lease a diagram showing what i expect to do on the 3 terminal of the switch that may give an idea where i misplace the original wiring.
I would appreciate the help.Thank
Cris
