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The first course of action in my area is to file a mechanics lein on the property which received the work. Besides the contract issues with the Roofing Company the protection for sub-contractors comes from state law. You can go to your state statutes and find the rules for the leins. Or you can go to your county attorney and gain filing information from them. The owners of the property that received the work are the ones liable for you getting paid. There is usually a short time line to file and it’s different for residential and commercial work.
Generally we don’t heat hot water further but…(old joke). If the sounds occur when you open a hot water faucet but before the burner comes on then it’s often cold water hitting the hot water and may be related to your dip tube. If the sound starts after the burner comes on then it can be heat bubbles coming up through sediment although that is unlikely with a three year old heater unless sediment is heavy in your area. Noise can also come from the baffle in the heater’s vent. And back water nipples in the tank can be a source.
When the noise starts, how long it lasts and when it stops can help identify the source.I don’t know what the pipe from the outside would be unless it is the drain pipe from the sump pump to the outside. But it wouldn’t be open.
Often the Kohler flush valves will collect rubber debri from the flapper. This is the seat the flapper sits on. If it’s brass we sometimes have to file them back clean.
Some copy Kohler flappers don’t work. The slot alignment issue sounds more like you are not in the right trip lever hole. Many do criticise the new Kohler low-flush toilets but the older ones are usually considered to be good toilets. Kohlers do require the correct parts.The most common reason for your symptoms is that your house sewer line needs to be cleared. The sounds are the sewer trying to vent. The washer dumps a large amount of water into the drainage system at one time and provides an early warning of forthcoming stoppages. Eventually your toilet will probably start causing the same noises.
If by valve you mean the drain pipe from the humidifier on your furnace then the pipe can be extended down further into the pit to lessen the noise. Code in my area is for sump pits to have covers which also helps reduce sound.
If by valve you mean other than my presumption, then where does the valve piping originate?Sounds like your drain has a partial blockage and needs to be cleared. This is also an early warning sign of the house drain starting to clog up.
The Kohler site still lists the parts for Neidenken and I can get them in my area. You might make sure you can get them before disassembly. I suspect that sometimes they need to be ordered. You should not need any of the brass nuts or parts.
You can remove the carpet but should not need to replace the tile. The floor does not have to be perfectly smooth to lay the foam underlayment for the laminate flooring.
I have not seen a paint system that works on a fiberglass tub. There may be but the attempts I have seen usually make the unit worse after a few months.
If they have to drain the pressure down then that’s usually because the pressure has built up higher from the expansion of the cold water when heated. The Pressure Reducing Valve could need adjusting or the expansion tank may not be working correctly. I do not see how shower usage would effect the backflow preventer except that a fast shut off of a valve downstream can result in spitting from the back pressure.
Backflows are to be inspected yearly and parts replaced every few years. They are a problem with spillage and require drain piping to an approved drain. If the downstream pressure is more than two pounds lower than the incoming pressure then the backflow preverter is designed to relieve that pressure.I don’t understand the part you have obtained. The rubber stoppers sometimes have a chain attachment to the overflow plate to keep from loosing them but I don’t believe that is your discussion. Are you replacing the face plate or do you have a toe activated closer?
It sounds like you may have two problems. The stems might not be reassembled correctly. Did you keep the stem loose while you tightened the stem body? What is the problem with the spout that you do not have at the shower. Do you mean you can control the water for the shower but not the tub? Do you have a three handle valve? Know the brand of valve?
There is no validity to the HD employees statement. There is not a lack of volume from the meter from which a lower pressure results. Call your inspection department or water department for their comments.
