[theeagle]

What you need to do is get a humidity gauge and get your humidity to below 50%. perferably to below 40%. this will help reduce moisture buildup from the warm meeting the cold.
all it takes sometimes is to run your fans for the bathroom or stove, instead of “oh. its just a little bit of steam and i don’t like the noisy fans”.

Toilet sweat has to do alot with the temperature of water coming in. you could get one of the insulated tank kits. or there is a plumbing crossover that allows some hotwater to mix into the toilet tank on every flush.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/
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[theeagle]

Put this on the floor first and be guaranteed that you won’t end up with moldy carpets.

http://www.dricore.com/en/ewhat.htm

Other method is too use the rubber backed ,glue down carpet.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

ummm… if this concrete was supplied by a concrete company,,,call them to tell them that they gave you a very bad batch and if their insurance will cover the removal and repouring..

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

ever thought about upgrading to geo-thermal.. the newer coolants run up to 600 percent efficiency and will extend your pool season at a respectable cost..couple it into the solar water panals and get extra savings..
estimate about $16,000 for a system with drilled wells.

http://www.econar.com/products/water_heater.htm
this is a smaller unit, but pool heating sizes are made to supply.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=%22solar+water+panels%22%2B%22installation%22&btnG=Search

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

http://www.dixieline.com/sceiling/suspended1.html

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

turn the tap so the valve stem moves inward to the pipe.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

call the house movers and they can raise the house up(you may or may not be able to live in it with temporary sewer/water/electrical hookups).
and then find a spot for the stairs.. upgrade a smaller electrical panal..upgrade heating or adding new ducts.
and then depending on the foundation upgrades needed or added too,etc. for the new basement walls plus a basement slab with plumbing underneath for new bedrooms, etc…about $30,000 and up, depending on work needing to be done.

pitfalls are if your current crawlspace has water problems..i never recommend going below natural drainage…..and having to climb stairs…or raising a house that is old with structural problems.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

try your local plumbing supply house or your plumber.

http://www.schluter.com/english/products/2002/sectionh/overview-h/section-h.html

leak proof and kit makes it that much easier than the old fashioned concrete base that leaks to the rubber pan and then eventually to the drain.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

Since the roof has been like this for awhile..and any moisture problems it has have not caused water marks into the ceiling..
you might as well wait until this oh so lovely winter is over and get the work booked for doing in the late spring ,early summer..
and just expect to have some extras to repair,other than the shingles.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

the condensation could be from inadequate ventilation from the bottom soffit vents to the top ridge or gale end vent…or the old shingles are allowing water to migrate down through them and cause what looks like condensation.

Have a trustfull contractor come out if you see actual water dripping down from leaking(if you have proper venting as above).
and then tear off all three layers of roof down to the roof boards….check for rotten or loose boards…then cover whole roof with roofing felt(30 pound for the first 3 feet up the roof and 15 pound for the rest of the roof) to give you a second layer of water protection..and then a decent 25 year 3 tab(or laminated shingle look) shingle…

by the way putting shingles on in the winter does not allow the tar/glue tabs on the shingles to be activated with the warm sun to hold down the shingle to the lower next shingle…this can cause some shingles to be bent up or torn loose in a severe wind…

quote:the house is 35 years old).unquote:
you must have bad ventilation as you should just be part way through a second life of roof..not four….also is it also better to fully strip a roof before spending money to reroof it….weight and the transfering of the warpage of the old shingles to the new shingles..

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

can’t remember if the light does not power on if the belt breaks causing the safety switch to cut out under the dryer.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

sand will initially repell water untill the static of the sand breaks(no details today), causing the water to just sink down through it making it less of a good grading tool for directing water away from the foundation.

compactable fill such as clay or roadbase, that will not allow water to easily go through it. and then sloped away from the foundation.. as well as having downspouts discharge 10 feet away from the foundation..

if the fill is on the bricks. the bricks will absorb the water or moisture and be damaged with freezeing in winter.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

if you think thats annoying..try phantom faxers.

i have a master switch for the phone lines with a seperate call display for anything that might of been important..

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

lets say between $400 to $800 dollars depending on wall thickness and thickness for batt or blown in the ceiling. with the install and air shutes to allow air to flow from the soffitts to the ridge vent.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

you must insulate the vent pipe with the sock insulation. this will eliminate the condensation from the cold attic, that will build up in the pipe or drip back down 10 minutes later after shower.

and use solid ducting in order to not have low spots that will alow water to sit in. slope pipe to outside wall if you can or put it straight up through roof with a proper roof vent that has a flapper .

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

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