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the moisture from the new concrete (?) is causing things to shift. but you will have to wait a while to get the moisture down as the concrete cures. put in a vent fan in the basement or put a fan blowing out the basement window for a while a day to help drop the curing concretes moisture.
or if no new concrete, . then did you push up the new walls too tight onto the joists. or did you shift a wall over for the new space.
you can also find the creaking spots and glue and screw 2 by 2’s under the creaky spot to stop the extra movement. have someone walk up top and find the creaks. to pull the floor down with the screws after the block is screwed into the joist. you drill a hole in the 2 by 2 that is larger than the flathead screw and the screw should not be too long as to go through the upstairs flooring.just long enough to go into the subfloor.
as i posted in the other boards you need a screen filter and not a membrane filter before the pump to allow it to suck with no resistance.
no the seal is broken. there are little drilling kits that cut a hole in the glass and let the moisture out (window breaths). but really you have to get new sealed panes.
the air that got in when the seal failed causes the condensation as double glazed widows have an inert gas in them.or are you taling abot storm window double panes where they are 2 seperate windows?
the outer pane should not be sealed tight to the weather as it needs to breath a little bit. the moisture comes out from the living space and gets trapped in that colder space and condences with no way out.have you taken the burners out? if the powder got on them then it will smell every time. if you can pull them out easily, then depending on the coating you could try a
(nylon)brush ,plus or make a paste out of baking soda and scrub with a nylon brush on the burners and oven walls.
but a quick google search says that it may be baked into the oven and any scratchs in the oven won’t help to get it out.a large natural sponge and a damp paint brush ,if it is the type that is pointy. practice on a scrap piece of board first to be able to achieve the proper effect. also there are rollers that are meant for applying the popcorn type ceiling.
but you may not be able to match it close enough if it the smooth type. there should be small quart containers at the builders where it has the nessessary popcorn in the mixture with drywall mud.
http://joneakes.com/ca/ls/cgi-bin/getdetailscals.cgi?id=341have you removed the trap? it could have sand in it and depending on the way your washing machine discharges into the line, with a blockage the sand could be floated up in the turbulance.
and to clean the line itself you need to get a line snake to push out any blockage that the sand in the line is holding back. snake down the line about 5 to 10 feet to start.the screws are on ears outside the fan box.
providing there are no wires on that side then you could use a sawzall with a long blade.or if it is a flimsy box, then bent it in on itself with a pair of vise grips so you can get at the screws.
and if putting a new one in, cut off the ears and put two screw mounting holes inside the box.and hopefully the duct connected has some extra length to make it easy to reconnect.
and put a vapor barrier around a new box.short of drilling a hole with a masonary bit and putting in a large anchor. another way is a big concrete nail, but may bust the plaster.
is it 3m that has those stick on hooks that have the tab you pull to release the adhesive.
that would be the best bet and they are strong and won’t break the plaster apart.is the bubbles coming from the drain hole or the refill tower. if coming from the refill tower then get a new toilet flap as the old one is probably deformed.(possibly due to a chlorine puck in the toilet tank ,as these will warp the flapper.)
air bubbles coming out of the drain hole itself is a mystery.
