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doing it from outside is ok if you can patch the siding ,so the holes do not show, either by replacing boards or putting up new siding.,so not to have all those patched hole marks in the siding. some contractors will install small round louvered vents in the holes drilled, so as to not need patches,,,still don’t look good.
from inside is a good excuse to patch all the cracks in the walls and repaint.and other than some dust from the insulation.
Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/
two types of door opener bulbs…
one goes horizontal…
one goes vertical…
hope it helps….Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/
it is possible to take a peice of sheet metal(10 feet lengths) that has a slight bend in the middle and slip it under the bottom of the bottom row of shingles(hopefully up at least 6 inches up, depending on nails) and have it overhang the solarium roof by 8 inches ,to prevent the facia drip and wind driven rain…the bend keeps it tight to the solarium roof to prevent wind chatter.
Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/
vapor barrier of 6 mil poly (plastic) on the ground. joints taped with tuck/sheathing tape. use accousticle caulck(interior) to seal around bottom edge of foundation..gravel can hold it down..
put r20 unfaced batts inbetween floor joist and there are wires to hold batts in if necessary.
but if you only can get faced batts,,have the facing up toward the flooring…insulation just helps add some balance to the open/vented crawl space and your feetys…Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/
vapor barrier of 6 mil poly (plastic) on the ground. joints taped with tuck/sheathing tape. use accousticle caulck(interior) to seal around bottom edge of foundation..gravel can hold it down..
put r20 unfaced batts inbetween floor joist and there are wires to hold batts in if necessary.
but if you only can get faced batts,,have the facing up toward the flooring…insulation just helps add some balance to the open/vented crawl space and your feetys…Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/
what kind of fireplace.
gas.
wood.
pellet.
chimney.tile or other non-combustable material under/behind/beside the fireplace to be up to firecode. etc…. unless its a unit that allows zero clearance.(1 inch or 2 inch.)
Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/
no vapor barrier if you are putting it between the floor joists. but….
vapor barrier on bottom will create water to sit on top of the insulation/plastic.
vapor barrier on top of the insulation (against floor) is not really necessay ,unless you have a subfloor that is not plywood or osb.with many cracks to allow the air to easily push past the insulation and then use accoustical caulk to seal the edges of the plastic to the side of the joist..lots of work..
spray foam is easier for the professional. seals up everything and will cost more…vapor barrier goes on the warm in winter side…
Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/
its called 6 mil poly (plastic).
and have you had that basement water-proofed..instead of just leaky old damp-proofed.
Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/
you can glue and screw 2 by 8’s onto those joists. and then using 3/4″ tongue and groove plywood that is glued and screwed down onto it. causing the new joist combination to act like a 2 by 10 or even 2 by 12 in carrying capacity.
but to meet code you would also need to add a joist inbetween the 2 by 6’s ,as some codes don’t like two foot spans for floors. and just cutting down a modern 2 by 8 to match height with a old 2 by 6 may be up to some codes at 12 inch centers..
Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/
first go out and get a humidity gage. perferably a digital one.
a good humidity is below 50% and even better is below 40%.
use bathroom exaust fans when using the shower or tub. use the exaust fan above the stove.Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/
the chain should have only a small amount of slack with the lever and flapper in the down positions.this will allow the flapper to rise up higher on flush and not get sucked back down on releasing the handle.
Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/
http://www.diyfixit.co.uk/nflash/painting/Knotting/knotting.htm
Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/
been used for 20 years in europe.
proven safe and can actually freeze without bursting.Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/
this will keep all water away from the wall itself and any pressure associated with it. and on the concrete you can put a coat or 2 of damp-proofing.alternate coating is a sprayed rubber membrane with the dimpled(link) product to protect it. then put 2 feet thick of drain rock or 3/4″ minus crushed rock to act as a good drainage bed. use the drain tile with a fabric sock on it and for extra protection from the silt of the ground plugging things up, you put a fabric cloth(like landscape fabric) on top of the drain rock. if you have any clay soil,you should backfill with a fill that will allow water to drain through it.
this is for outside ,which really is the best and permanent way of water-proofing a basement before finishing.painting ‘drylock’ on the inside is really only temporary (even though some will say its permanent) . but the wall has to be clean with no paint on it and no major leakage of water as the water can eventually push the drylock off the wall. leading to the wonderful mold you’ve probably heard of….
Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/
the modern age is here. costs a little more but is water proof….
http://www.schluter.com/english/products/2002/sectionh/overview-h/section-h.html
Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/
