[theeagle]

http://www.lsj.com/yourguide/howto/howto_bathliner.html

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=%22bathtub+liner%22&btnG=Google+Search

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

http://www.schluter.com/english/products/2002/sectionh/overview-h/section-h.html

spend the money to do it right the first time.

grout leaks. rubber membranes that don’t slope or installed wrong leak. water goes through grout and saturates the drywall.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

just above the counter at the bottom is the info links

http://www.daviscaves.com/index.shtml

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

they like permits for things such as structual and wiring to make sure it is up to code. even though some places have strange codes that are barely up to code.
electrical ,just to be sure the circuit is not overloaded and is grounded.
structural is so you don’t pull out a load bearing wall and leave the floor hanging or the plumber gets crazy cutting out joists. also to be sure an extension does not cause house to be to near the propery line or over the lots house capacity square footage.

and just submit a new floor plan when you go in for the changes and include beams and distances.

and if they decide to inspect the work…you may have to rip open the wall and ceiling so the inspector can see the major supporting areas of the work. including insulation,etc.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

to repair the wall from a safety point would be to tear it down to the cracked area and build up from there.
check that the wall is also still plumb on the supposed good part so that you are not going to have future issues with the wall shifting.
and check for small cracks that you might not have noticed.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

yes you can vent an electric dryer inside .use nylons on the end of the pipe to catch extra lint. there are kits that have a flap to divert to inside or outside.

remember that doing this will also cause an increase in house moisture.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

cover the ground with 6 mil vapor barrier plastic and then use accoustical caulk to seal the plastic to the bottom edge of the foundation walls.tape any joins with tuck/sheathing tape.
if you live in a damp area of the country,,a powered vent fan that has a duct to pull the moist air up off the floor of the crawl space and out. this will create air flow in the crawl space.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

http://www.hvacmechanic.com/txv.htm
for details on the part.

and did they somehow over pressurize the system with the refridgerant gas.causing the pressures to rise too high for the parts to work proper.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

this is usually used for retrofits.
like adding hot water piping/heat under the sub-floor structure to help reflect heat back up instead of going down.
to put over that one window that get the intense heat of late summer sunsets.
put on the inside of a wooden garage door ,for a little more heat to stay in the workshop.

part of its ‘r’ value is reflectiveness.

batt insulation or blown in insulation is better. sprayed foam is still somewhat expensive.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

both sides of soffit should be ventilated.
ridge vent or gable end vents. using both may cause the ridge vent to not fully pull air from the soffit vents.
if you live in snowy areas, a ridge vent will get covered in snow and not work vey well.
attic ventilation is to remove heat and moisture from the attic.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

the moisture of the treating in the deck can cause deck stains/sealers to not penetrate into the wood.
you might get lucky and get last years stock. being dryer.
usually 3 months constructed is a good time for the wood to dry out. then you also have to remove the mill glaze ,which also causes the stain to not penetrate as easily.
a rule of thumb is to pour a few drops of water on the decking. if the water absobs quickly ,you can seal. if the water just beads up, then you have to wait to seal.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

seems okay.other than it could be a touch bigger.and if you could make the access in the hall would be better but depends on your layout.
since you have a hill slope,putting it down lower is okay,and also makes the adding on to the roof line give you enough roof pitch to allow for regular shingles with the extension of a normal pitched roof..or tying into a round roof.
you can use a foundation or use the same method of mobile frame and pier blocks that the origional is. by using 3-2 by 10’s to act as the chassis with some cross 2 by 10’s to act as to tie the chassis together. and then add your 2 by 8’s and plywood floor.
remember room for the stairs. about 4 feet out by 3 feet wide.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

no real negatives.

have 6 mil plastic on bare dirt,,,or concrete poured. keeps the moisture in the ground and not in the house.
foundation not leaking.
basements are just extra space.. and some people will raise a house up to allow for a basement.

besides the reason you have a crawl space is to have the base of the foundation below frost depth for winter or to allow for mechanicals(ducts/pipes). basements really got popular when someone decided that “hey, if I’m digging down 5 feet, why not dig down 8 feet and have more room.” then the dreaded dillema of the wet basement started. dampproofing is bare code minimum. waterproofing is treating that foundation like a boat. keep the water out.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

http://www.sidinghook.com/

or you can crete one with the not-easily bendable metal to hook up under the siding.
the remover tool for siding does this type of action.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

[theeagle]

as long as the air is always going out the vent.

but it should have it own roof vent ,,,perferably with a flap to stop wind from blowing air back down when the fan is off.. if you’re in a heating climate ,then it would also be good to use an insulation sock around that vent pipe to prevent water from condensing in the pipe in the cold and dripping back down the inside of the pipe.

Remember the past or all is lost. http://www.geocities.com/theeagles_page/

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