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there is new chinking that is latex based. they put in the foam backer rod inbetween the logs on the inside and put some heat into the space (depending on how cold it is outside) and use the latex based chinking to do the inside and then wait until spring or later to do the outside. you may need to plastic the outside to cut back on wind chilling of the logs in colder applications.
i’d have to say that a one way valve has some debris in it and is slightly leaking. there should be one before the pressure tank. if the pressure tank is water logged then the pump should come on more with water usage as the presure tank can not develop as large a pressure reserve.
if it’s a clumping litter than you will need the toilet auger attachment to break up the hard clump that is stuck in the pipe.
with 2 by 10 rafters, you can only fit about r28 in there. that allows for a rafter shoot/vent to go in the 1 or 2 inches of space that is left all the way to the roof vent space. and did the roofers also put roofing felt under your (shingled?) roof. this always prevent any future leaks, plus any ice getting up under the shingles from dripping down into the roof sheating and down into the attic/vent space.
feel you main breaker for heat after using a larger appliance. does the main breaker buzz when the dryer or oven is on.
this can cause your symptoms. but requires an electrician to pull the meter and change the breaker.yes with the sleeve and caulk around the siding on the sleeve.
the sleeve is in two pieces. one nails to the siding and the other slides onto it.the crack will cause the porecelain of the bowl to slowly absorb water and eventually crack the bowl more.this could happen when you are not home and spill water all over.
change the code ,just in case someone has figured it out.(there are also code scanners that can shoot out a bunch of codes for the older manualy set coded openers.)
but this is becoming more frequent due to new millitary jamming tests in areas of the country.is the cables on the side still connected? and depending on your springs type are they still in a tension adjustment.(you can manually ,easily move door)
could also be the tension adjustment on the motor that is supposed to stop it when it jams or hits something on the way down.
use a 20 ton hydralic bottle jack.there is also a heavy duty screw jack but the hydralic one is easier to use in a tight space).
put a pad under the jack that is 2′ by 2′ next to the cinder block support.that is also high enough(in 2 or 3 peices) to not have to use a post on top of the jack.this is a safety item if the jack leans to one side, and it will not throw wood block at you.lift up one inch at a time at the lowest spot and block with shims of 1 inch wood.(this is to guard against soft ground under jack sinking). lift in different areas to slowly raise/level up the mobile as you won’t be twisting the frame as much and kitchen cabinates.(if you have to raise it quite a bit).
you can level across the the steel frame first and then tweak the leveling with a 4 foot level on the floor inside to achieve level in all directions.
and depending on how good you can crawl under there and the amount of leveling, it should’nt be more than a day. crawling from one end to the other with the heavy jack is usually what slows you down.put r20 batt insulation between the joists.
hold it up there with stapled string or wire.
if you have batts that have a vapor barrier on them the vapor barrier goes up against the floor.(warm in winter side)plus put a vapor barrier of 6 mil plastic on the dirt floor and seal around the edges with accoustical caulk.
you could also use 2 inch insulation wedged up between the joists against the floor and nail or glue with styrofoam safe glue.
could be both. i have seen 2 story houses where the sewer line in the yard gets broken during reno’s and then the sytem just slowly fills up the downstairs toilet,etc.
and i have seen some septics so full that only the water gets through.
pump every 5 years if you don’t treat the septic tank well in ingredients, 8 years for a well cared for system.(only organic wastes).do you have a horizontal cleanout in the wall of the foundation? put a bucket under it and open it and look down with the flashlight for backup. or a cleanout in the floor to check for backup.(which may be your case)
opening the septic top may not reveal a full tank unless you put a stick down through the scum layer to check for solids height.
is the noise from inside the tank.?which would be the fill valve with a loose shut off washer.
also makes a hammering noise when this happens and another tap is turned on then off after a few seconds.
but i have not heard of a drilling type noise..thats a good tip for people.
i had an older fridge where the drip catch drain pipe for the freezer in the refridgerater section was so full of gunk that it froze and then would spill water over into the bottom of the fridge.
you need to air it out for a while as the smell permeates into the structure.the plastic should be sealed along the joins and use accoustical caulk to seal along fonudation edge of plastic. if there are crawl space vents, then see that they are open for the 3 seasons of the year(unless winter is warm enough).
check for black areas on the joists for possible mold(if found ,then use a mixture in a spray bottle of 10 parts water to 1 part bleach). mold will react almost immediately to the mixture ,whereas just black water stains from construction will not react.
use an air freshner under there if you want to kill the smell further.
