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This works very well, but do not leave it on too long, since it will eat into the cement. Just follow the directions on the bottle.
If the hole is not very large, there is an easy trick to fixing it.
1) Cut out the hole so that it is square.
2) Cut a new piece of drywall, but make it about 4″ bigger on both sides.
3) Score the patch on the back side of the drywall to the size of the hole, but do it so that there is a 2″ piece on all 4 sides.
4) Snap the drywall patch to break off the 4 pieces, but DO NOT cut the paper on the front of the patch. Instead, just peel off the drywall and leave the front paper attached to the patch.
5) Use the front paper on the patch as the joint tape and just mud the patch into place. The joint compound will hold the patch in place.
Easier than trying to cut a big hole and screwing boards in behind a small hole. This is good for holes that are only a few inches in both direction. I have used this method many times, and it works great.
Yes you can have foam insulation sprayed directly to the backside of the drywall.
Before doing that though, I would look for other causes. Are the bathroom vents or kitchen hood venting into the attic? This is a BIG no-no. This causes all the moisture to go straight into the attic. If this is the case, odds are if they are properly vented (directly to the outside) the moisture problem will go away.
One other thing to look at: Are the soffet vents plugged up with insulation? Sometimes when they blow in insulation, they are not careful about making sure they are left open.
When doing outside corners, there is not much of an issue. Inside corners are the ones that are difficult. Here is a website that tells how to do inside corners with a miter saw.
http://www.josephfusco.org/Articles/Crown_Moulding/crownscript.html
The spray in insulation is the best there is. As a matter of fact, where you are it would definetly be the best route. With this insulation there is no requirement for a wrap. The insulation itself is the wrap. All the wrap is really used for is a moistier barrier. It is used to keep the warm moist are from coming into contact with the cooler are on the other side of the wall, which with any other insulation will occur. Because this insulation is sprayed on as a liquid, there is NO air infiltration past the insulation. It is also the only insulation that maintains the R-value no matter what the conditions are. Fiberglass insulation drops the r-value as the temperature drop. Also, moistier in the insulation will cause reduced r-values.
The down side to this is the price. It will be considerably more money to have it done, and you will probably need some sort of air exchanger. The up side is the engery costs are going to be considerably lower, and they are perpetual (especially the way gas and oil prices are going).
If I were building a new house, I would VERY seriously consider it.
I recently broke up a cast iron tub. A BIG word of advice. Make sure you cover the tub with a heavy tarp. The poreclin finish is like glass, and is VERY sharp. Cover the tub with 2 or more layers of the tarp. The tarp will be trashed when you are through, but it will keep the pieces from flying everywhere. I replaced mine with a fiberglass jetted tub, which my wife loves.
Do no use them. This is only going to cause problems. Look for the correct lights for direct insulation contact.
You need to level the house not each room. There is a reason why the floor is not level. This could be something as simple as jacking up the center of the house and leveling it with correct supports. Or it could be a sign of something as serious as rotting sills or crumbling foundation, and the entire house is sinking. Fixing one room is a stop gap measure and does not address the root cause of the problem.
You need to strategically place either 4×4 or 6×6 posts around the porch to support the weight. You can use a hydralic jack to raise the roof and slid in the temporary posts. Once you are done, jack it back up, slide out the temporary posts, and lower onto the new posts or walls.
I would also highly recommend that you do NOT use a standard 20 amp breaker. I would use a 20 amp GFCI, so that there is no chance of electrocution in the shed.
I just did this very thing about a year ago. Here are 2 good tips for you:
Before you start, be SURE you cover it with a heavy fabric tarp that you do not care about. The tub has a porcelin coating that is like very fine glass. If you do not cover it before breaking it up, the porcelin will fly everywhere. The down side is it will also ruin the tarp, by cutting it all up. Better the tarp than you though.
Also, to remove the concrete, I used an air chisel. Just work it under the cement and it will peel right up. You can rent one from most home improvement stores.
This site is good for figuring the angles for doing crown molding. Your problem sounds similiar so try here first:
http://www.josephfusco.org/Articles/Crown_Moulding/crownscript.html
I did the same thing about a year ago. I attached the filler strip to the cabinet with biscuits, and then scribed it to the wall. Then mounted the vanity and installed the top last.
This is a very serious decision. The amount of weight that a beam can carry does vary greatly based on the material it is made from. The weakest would be the wood, second is usually the engineered material, and the strongest is a steel I-beam. The problem is you need to know what kind of weight this beam needs to support (I.E. roof structure). This is not easy to calculate and should ABSOLUTELY be left to someone who knows!!!
The shinges are only there to protect the felt. See:
