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If the screws holding the hinges are loose or the holes are worn. Insert a couple of pieces of wooden toothpicks into the holes and break them off even with the doorjam. This will cause the screws to wedge, and you should be able to tighten them.
The felt is what actually makes your roof water proof, not the shingles. Some gaps around stacks and chimneys is not a big problem, since these are all covered with flashing. The material you are referring to, sounds like OSB (Oriented Strand Board). This is just about as strong as plywood, but probably 1/2 – 2/3 the cost. It is the standard for roofing over most, if not all, the US. The real only down side to it is it will seperate when exposed to a lot of water (as you have found out). This material should not have a problem with high humidity, as long as it is not subjected to standing or prolonged water exposure.
As far as the time it is taking them, I would definitely be on them about that. You could schedule the inspections, and speed up the process.
Good luck!!!
The mortar is easier to mount a hook into. Brick tends to chip and crack. You should be able to drive a good sized nail into the mortar with no problem. If this does not work, you will have to drill a hole and use a wall anchor. Any hardware or home improvement store should have all you need.
I have seen exactly what you need, but I cannot remember where or when. They make actual light bulbs that will shut off after a certain amount of time. It has been years, but if my memory serves me correctly, they had about 3 or 4 different kinds of bulbs that would dim, timers, or motion.
Sorry I could not be more help, and good luck.
I had new gutters installed 4 years ago, and there some things that make a difference. The first one to determine the size is what kind of weather do you have. I have lived in 4 states, and if I lived in Texas again I would without question use a 6″ gutter. When it rains there it comes down in literal buckets full. I live in Minnesota now, and it usually does not rain like that here, so it is not as important.
The next question is, do you have trees? If the answer is yes, then absolutely pay the extra money and go with a one piece leafless gutter. These are the gutters we have, and they are the best. As a matter of fact, my neighbor liked them so much, they bought the same ones. They also only come in a 6″ so that was an easy choice.
I hope this helps.
I would use a very good (something like Behr and more than $20/gallon) high gloss paint that is mildew resistant. They can also add an additional additive to the paint to help reduce the mildew. Also, do not use this room for a week or so after you paint. High gloss paint takes a long time to dry completely. The problem is it creates a “skin” that does not let the paint dry quickly (and is what gives the paint it’s glossy finish). The last time I used high gloss paint, I waited 2 days between coats, and then did not hang the item until a week after the last coat.
Have you tried a weak mixture of water and bleach to see if the stain is removed?
The only good way to get all the paint off is to sand blast the building. The paint gets into all the little holes and you could take a dental tool and pick at it for months, or use the sand blaster. You should be able to rent one, but they are very dusty.
Is the white line showing up through the paint? In otherwords, is the line bleeding through the paint? If this is the case, try priming the wall with something like Kilz. This should stop the bleed through.
If the paint itself has a water line, it should just wipe off. The only other thing I can think of, is what kind of paint are you using? Is it, gloss, eggshell, semi-gloss, or flat. In a bathroom it is usually best to use a gloss paint. The moisture does not adhere as easily to the glossy surface.
One other thought. Do you have an exhaust fan? If not, this would probably be a very wise investment for any bathroom, so that the moisture can be removed before there is a problem.
There are 2 more issues with this idea. The first one is the number of cubic feet of air that can be moved with both fans. I do not know the numbers, but my gut feeling is the bath exhaust fan is considerably smaller than a range hood.
The second issue is the distance away from the stove. A range hood is usually between about 20″ – 36″ above the stove top. If you mount a ceiling mount exhaust fan in the ceiling you would be looking at 48″-60″ above the stove top.
I don’t think I would try it, just based on my two reasons and the particularly on the previous one.
There are 2 ways to tell. The first is with an Ohm meter. The second way is with a flash light battery, a flash light bulb, and a couple of pieces of wire. Tape the wire to either end of the battery, tape the other end to the fuse. Run the second wire from the fuse to the metal side of the bulb, and touch the center post of the bulb to the other end of the battery. If the bulb lights, the fuse is good.
Most furnace install people know how to do this. They will run a stainless steel liner inside the existing chimney and attach the furnace to this new liner. It is dropped in from the top, so there is no external damage, and you cannot even see it from the outside.
When I removed the tile in my bathroom, I used a pnuematic air chisel. Once I got under the tile, they just popped right up. I did the entire bath, including the metal lathe and 1″ cement underlayment in about 2-3 hours. You should be able to rent a tool similiar in either air or electric from any tool rental store.
Dimmers always run warm, but not hot. A dimmer is nothing more than a variable resistor. If it is really warm, say more than 100 degrees, then there is something wrong with the dimmer. Not having the ground hooked up, could be the problem with the dimmer. If I remember correctly some dimmers require a ground to work properly, where a normal single pole switch only needs the ground for safety reasons.
Another thing to look at, is the dimmer rated for at least 400 watts? Most dimmers are 650-1000 watts, so it probably is not the problem.
