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I removed tiles in a small bath with a hand pnuematic hand chisel. I got the chisel under a tile, and then just pushed it through, and they popped right up. It will take some time, but it does work.
This can also be caused by a presure build up. Have you raised the temperture on the water heater? As the water heats it builds up pressure. The pressure has to go somewhere. There are 3 places the excess pressure can go.
1) The hot water pipes.
2) The cold water pipes.
3) The pressure relief valve.Since the hot water pipes are all sealed when all the faucets are turned off, if cannot be releived there. The cold water side, normally has a valve installed that will not allow water to flow back to the street, so this is also sealed. This leaves only the pressure relief valve. If changing this out (which would also be my first guess) does not help, and it continues to drip, there is still hope. You can buy a pressure relief tank. This tank is about the size and shape of a small LP tank. Inside the tank is a rubber diaphram in the middle of the tank. The bottom half of the tank is pressurized with air (air compressor or bicycle pump will work) to about 60-75 lbs. The top part of the tank is attached into the cold water side of the hot water heater. When the pressure builds up in the water heater, the excess water will now have some place to go, into the top half of the tank.
We have a similiar problem in our downstairs bath. We added an exhaust fan in the bathroom, and that help a termendous amount, but not completely. The best solution is 2 fold. First you have to get rid of the mold you have. The easiest way to do this is let the area dry fairly well. Try no to use the shower for a week or so. Second, mix a mixture of about a 25% solution of bleach and water into a spray bottle and spray the are well (not soaking). This should kill all the mold. Now, let this dry for a day or so, and paint the ceiling with a good mildew resistant paint. This should eliminate the moisture build up on the ceiling, since the humidity can not soak into the popcorn. If you have the mold show up again in the future, just spray the bleach mixture on it and it will clear it up!!!
This can be done, but you HAVE to be able to get to each light. The only way to do this is to have a seperate circuit to each set of lights. The circuit would have to look like this:
PWR -> 3-way -> 3-way -> light -> light
and a second circuit:
PWR -> 3-way -> 3-way -> light -> light
It does not matter if you have a 3-way switch or a multiple 4-way switches. It will always have to be wired the same. The round romax is probably a 12 or 14-4 cable going from the switch with the power to the switch where the lights are coming off. To go between the switches (by code) requires 4 wires. Two hot leads, a neutral, and a ground. It does not matter how many lights you have after the last 3-way, you could have 1 or 100. If you want 3 switches (4-way circuit) then you would insert a 4-way switch in between the 3-way switches. You can insert as many as you want of these as well, 1 to 100. If you need additional help, you can email me at sauerkraut_57@hotmail.com and I can help you.
I would NEVER put any vinyl flooring of any kind on a counter top. It is NOT heat resistant, not does it stand up to any kind of scratches or cuts.
I personally think cermaic tile on a counter top is only slightly better than that!!! It is IMPOSSIBLE to keep the grout lines clean. Ceramic is OK if you use a 12×12 or bigger tile to reduce the amount of grout lines.
In my opinion, the order of counter tops would be:
1) Granite or any equally as hard stone.
2) Quartz or Solid surface
3) Marble (too soft but good for baking)
4) Formica or laminate
5) Large ceramic tile
6) Smaller ceramic tile (6×6 or less)AND vinyl flooring would not even be on the list.
There are solvents you can buy at home improvement stores (usually sold in the carpet or paint sections) that will remove parafin from carpet.
I would absolutely put up at least 2×4 walls (2×6 would be better), insulate the walls, and put up a vapor barrier. If there is a possibility of water in the basement, you may want to consider using a tile backer board on the lower part of the wall. This would save you from having to rip out all the drywall if water does get into the basement. I am getting ready to do some drywall work in my basement, and I do not have a water problem, but I am still going to use green board below the foundation line.
This is the best ventallation combination there is. It allows cold are to enter along the soffets and exit at the ridge (where most of the heat is). An ideal attic would be less than 32 degrees all the time in the winter. Ice dams are caused by the attic temperature rising above 32 degrees and the snow on the roof melts. This water runs down the roof until it hits the soffet which is below 32 degrees. As soon as this water hits the cold soffet it refreezes. You really want the attic as cold as possible. The insulation on the ceiling of the living area is what keeps the cold air in the attic and not get into the house. The vapor barrier should NEVER be cut. This allows moister to get into your attic, condense, and fall back into the insulation. Once the insulation gets wet, you are going to have MAJOR problems.
A modern single line phone only uses 2 wires, and they are always the center 2 of the jack (usually red and green). It is hard to tell which wires are being used from the old wiring. I would try black to red, and the black-red to the green, and see if you have a dial tone. If not, try red to red and red-white to green, and so on until you find the pair that work. Be aware that you can get a REALLY good buzz from a phone line. The phone only runs on low voltage, except if it rings. The voltage jumps to 110v during the ring cycle, and it can hurt (take it from someone who knows)!!!
This is usually caused by one of 3 things:
1) The flapper inside the toilet tank is old and hard and will no longer seal.
2) The seal that the flapper seals against is old and chipped.
3) The seal between the tank and stool is leaking.
To repair #1 is very simple and inexpensive. The flapper can be purchased at any home improvement or hardware store. Turn the water off and remove the old one and purchase one that is similiar. To repair #2 and #3 is more difficult but is still inexpensive. To do these repairs you will have to turn the water off and drain the tank. Once the tank is completely drained, the tank itself will have to be removed. These parts can also be purchased at any home improvement center or hardware store.
The best way is to remove all the rtrim from around the window, and use the spray polyuerathane (low expanding) and pump it into the crack. Then let the uerathane expand and set up (about 6-24 hours depending upon the temp and humidity). After it is setup, trim off the excess with a saw or long knife (a serrated blade works well) before reattaching the trim.
You will probably will not have a problem. Most electrical conduit is galvanized, meaning that the outside of the conduit has been electroplated with zinc, which does not react with copper. The only way this will be a problem is if the zinc has been rubbed off right where the water pipe and conduit cross.
Usually this is caused by a leaky seal in the door. This can be caused by many things, like a torn seal, bent door, or a loose hinge. The problem is caused by moist outside air leaking into the refrigerator and condensing.
There are many ways to soundproof a room. There is also many different price ranges depending upon how well you want it soundproofed. You can get as complicated as you want as well. Here are some different options starting with the easiest and cheapest:
1) You could applying a soundproofing material to the existing walls.
2) You could use blown in insulation in between all the studs in all the walls.
3) You could tear out all the drywall and insulate the walls and re-drywall the walls with either standard drywall or soundproofing drywall
4) Tear out the drywall and frame a second wall not attached to the first. Insulate between these 2 walls and re-drywall the walls. (Common in home theater rooms)I did option 3 when I installed a jetted tub in a bathroom, and it cut down the noise by at least 50%.
Good luck.
