Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
You REALLY need to get all the adhesive off. This can be A LOT of work. Paint will not stick well to the adhesive, and it will bleed through over time. One of the best methods I have found to getting off the adhesive is to get a garden pump sprayer. Put a diluted mix of wall paper remover, and very hot water in the sprayer. Spray down the wall and keep it moist for 30 minutes or so. while keeping the wall moist, carefully use a scrapper and scrape as much of the adhesive off as possible. Once you have it all scraped, use Scotch Brite scrubbers and scrub the wall with the same mixture until the wall is clean. Let the wall dry for a day or 2 before painting.
GOOD LUCK!!! (And yes, I HATE WALLPAPER TOO)
The window is nailed in from the outside and possibly through the window frame. You will need to pull and/or cut the nails to remove the window. Once the window is free and removed, you will need to cut the studs off below the window. Next frame in the new doorway with 2x# (what ever the wall is framed with). The new framing should be a 1/4 – 1/2 bigger than the new door frame. This will allow for shiming to get the new door square and level. If the height is incorrect, you will have to reframe this as well. Once you have the new opening framed to the correct size, run a bead of caulk along the bottom the opening. Place the new door and frame into the opening on top of the caulk bead. You will need to square the door in the hole by measuring corner to corner and making sure the frame is square and shiming it into place. Once you have it squared, nail the door frame to the wall framing by nailing throught the shims that you inserted. Cut off the shims with a utility knife, and add the trim around the door, and caulk around the outside of the door frame on the outside.
The first question is, why do you need a new box? If the answer to this is, there are no more slots, then you will have to. If the answer is anything else, then the answer is better off not to.
If you have significant electrical experience, then you can do this. If not, I would call a professional.
The first step is to determine what is the maximum size main can be supported by the incoming wiring. Second, you will have to have the power company cope out and pull your meter or disconnect the incoming power. Third, you can then replace the breaker box with the proper box.
If what you are referring to as a pot light is a CAN light, then you are going to have some big problems. These are usually attached to framing in the ceiling, and the power box is attached to the light. All of this will have to be removed, and a new power box attached to framing in the ceiling to support the weight of the new light. This is going to require ripping out part of the ceiling and retapeing it.
Sorry
My guess is there is one of two problems. Either the channel above the window has a hole in it that is allowing the water to enter the house, or it was improperly installed.
In either case, a good silcone based caulk applied around where the siding meets the window should stop the leak.
The first question is, have the wires throughout the house been replaced, or is the old wiring attached to the breakers. My guess is that if they went through the trouble of replacing the fuse box for a breaker box they may have begun replacing the wiring.
If it were me, and the basement is accessable, I would pull new romax to the outlets and replace them with 3-prong plugs. It would be much safer in the long run.
This is a good bet if it is only wet in the front or side of the bowl. If it behind the bowl as well, it could be a leak from the tank. The next question is, has the flooring been changed around the toilet, so that the bowl sits higher than it did when it was originally installed? If so, you may need to use either an oversized (higher) ring, or an secondary ring on top of an ordinary ring. The secondary ring is different than a standard ring, because it is only wax, and there is no rubber seal. This work very well for me, when we retiled our bath, and the floor was about 1/2 higher than the old one.
I would try popping out the breaker and reseating it. Sometimes there is buildup that forms on the breaker contacts and reseating it will correct it. If this does not work, try replacing the breaker.
I removed all the particle board flooring in one of my bathrooms before putting in new tile. You just get yourself a good wrecking bar and start prying. I personally would not replace it with particle board either. It has very little strength, and makes your floors spongy. I would replace it with either plywood or OSB (oriented strand board). These materials have many times the strength, and do not cost that much more. When you put the new material in, screw it down, do not nail it. This will prevent sqeeky floors in the future.
Good Luck!!!
If you are talking about the sill, then this should be a fairly easy job if you can get to the studs on the inside and/or outside of the wall.
First, I would use a sawzall to cut the studs off, instead of pulling the nails (much easier).
The sill plate, must be pressure treated if it comes into contact with any masonary. If it isn’t pressure treated, then you will be doing this job again in a very short time.
You just use the box itself as a template. I have added boxes many, many times, and you can do it with no problem. I would look for one of the boxes that has the flip up tabs that come up when you tighten the screws. These hold very well, and are very simple to use.
If it is dry, you should just be able to wipe it down with a dry towel. If the grout was wet, try a weak solution of muratic acid. Follow the directions, and it should remove it without any problems.
This is a REALLY BAD idea. Why do you need or want to paint it? All you are going to end up with is paint in your food.
Your best option is to tile over it, even though I am not big on that either. If you do tile over it, it is best to use the largest tile possible to eliminate as many grout lines as possible (they are impossible to keep clean).
