Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
This is not a big problem and is done all the time. There is a wax ring on the bottom of the toilet that has to be replaced. It should just pull off. If the flange in the floor is flush or higher than the new floor, then you can use a standard ring. If it is lower you will need an extra tall, or an add on wax ring. The standard ring has a rubber seal that goes into the flange on the floor. The extra ring is only wax, and does not contain the rubber seal. The extra ring must be on top of the standard ring so that it seals against the toilet.
I did not try the tester until the lights did not work. I went home last night and tried pulling the GFCI out of the circuit and put the dimmer back in, and the dimmer worked. So I put the GFCI back in, and it worked. I have no idea what was wrong, but it is now working like a million bucks. I even checked the lights this morning and they did go off when the sun came up. Thanks for all the input, because I thought I was going nuts. I knew it had to work.
The order that the wiring is done is as follows:
Power->Photo Cell->GFCI->Dimmer->Lights
The GFCI does not contain an outlet. It is a box mounted GFCI that is inline with no outlet.
The dimmer is controlling two outlets, that are single plugs under the deck (Outdoor weather proof boxes and face plates).
The rope lights (according to the vendor) can be dimmed. They are not LED but are standard lights.
I should have explained a little further. You can have as many lamps as you want off the last switch, like:
PS – 3WS – 3WC – 3WS – L – L – L ……
If you want 3 switches to control x number of lamps or lights it would be:
PS – 3WS – 4WC – 4WS – 4WC – 3WS – L – L…
I hope this helps…
This should not hurt the deck material, since cedar is very mold, rot, and insect resistant. The down side is you may have to reprime. Primer does not hold up to the weather very well.
