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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 82 total)
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  • in reply to: TSP #285932

    Use odorless mineral spirits to wipe down all areas inside and out of the carcass, (including the drawers and bottom/back sides).

    TSP may de-gloss and damage the paint, and will likely remove the decopaged roses. If the roses are decals the mineral spirits may ruin them.

    After you have aired out the freshly cleaned (with mineral spirits) furniture you can seal it with clear de-waxed shellac.

    in reply to: moth balls #285269

    You’d have to specify which type (chemical basis) you used to provide the most effective solution.

    Generally the most common form – one would hang the clothes for several successive days OUTDOORS on a clothes line to off-gas to the atmosphere.

    DO not place these clothes in a dryer (electric or gas fired!).

    Or hang indoors until the odor is reduced – as the vapors are eye, nose, and respirtory irritants and poisonous.

    in reply to: Marker or crayon on leather couch #285268

    regular children’s non-toxic crayon would usually rub off of finished leather – some saddle soap and water may help this process.

    Another way to extract wax is to use heat and some non-coated absorbant non-bleached non-printed kraft paper and an iron on a low setting. (Kraft paper is what brown shopping bags – paper bags – are made of). Be sure to cut out a portion that has NO glue or printing, place it on the offending wax, and iron it slightly. (test in a hidden area first in case it negatively effects the finish of the leather).

    Regarding marker or pen ink – there are different types of inks. Water soluable (washable) children’s markers – are non-permanent – and can sometimes be floated off again with saddle soap and COOL water (warm water may set the stain – especially some of the more bold colors).

    Ball point ink will more likely set if warm water or hot is used, especially RED – the usual way to remove is to use refrigerated alcohol and the best source of this is some CHEAP alcohol containing hair spray (NO lacquer) which comes in a spray can (not a pump) spray it on the mark, and wipe it off with a sponge with COOL water and saddle soap. Sometimes a bit of naptha applied directly (get in a can labeled NAPTHA at the hardware store). Both the alcohol containing hairspray and the naptha are HIGHLY flamable – so make sure you have good ventillation, no open flames anywhere nearby (no cigs, candles, pilot lights near appliances – etc.) when using, and wash using a good saddle soap followed by a detergent surfactant (like liquid dish detergent and water – not dishwasher detergent) afterwards. Both the alcohol and the naptha may also remove the stain/dye which colors other than natural finished leather so you may have to resort to touching up the finish. If it is natural leather – you can restore the finish using products for example that are designed to “condition” leather baseball gloves (certain oils are rubbed in) to keep the leather supple as both alcohol and naptha will dry out the leather.

    Sometimes even permanent markers (like sharpe marker marks) can be successfully removed using the above. If the marker or ink stains have been heat set, however, you may never get them out.

    India ink, if it has penetrated the leather itself is also not easily removed (if not downright impossible).

    in reply to: gas range #285267

    You’ll find a black model a bit tough to locate via regular sources; suggest you look at RV dealership contacts and/or mobile coach home suppliers. You may well have better success with SS than black lately.

    24″ and 20 inch widths are more common to locate, although white or bisque is the usual color, terms like “apartment” or “studio sized” are sometimes used as descriptors.

    Tappan and Magic Chef are known brands of 24″ and 20″ free-standing gas ranges.

    I suspect you may have better success for your desired 28″ size looking at european models and comparing using a metric equivellent – don’t limit yourself to the descriptor size of the range, but look at the specifications (installation instructions etc.) themselves – you’ll likely find that several european brands (for the US market) are actually significantly narrower than the “standard 30”).

    You didn’t mention NG or Propane Gas either, this makes a difference as some narrower ranges aren’t easily retrofit (mfg don’t have the proprietary regulators and parts readily available always for these narrower ranges) and there could be some wait involved in acquiring the necessary parts prior to installation.

    You’ll also likely need to consult the Fuel Gas Code, for its references in the installation and safe operation instructions will reference this (even if your local authority hasn’t adopted the most recent version of this code standard).

    You can review the Fuel Gas Code on-line for free (but you can’t search it or print it) let us know if you need to reference this (or check your library).

    in reply to: Kitchen flooring #285153

    the condition of the sub-floor, if you’re remembering that the floor underneath free-standing ranges, dishwashes (sometimes, more often than not), refrigerators, etc. should be finished; the type of flooring finish existing, what will and will not be removed; what type of flooring material, AND the method of installation being proposed;

    size of the area (especially important depending on the type of flooring covering being proposed!); configuration of the area (U-shapped or L-shapped flooring pattern if after or before -pinched floating flooring etc.) too many variables to consider, esp. since you offered not even the least worthy of factual information NECESSARY to MINIMALLY offer a CONSIDERED OPINION.

    What did you pay for? nothing! How much did you minimally invest in offering up the question? Nothing, in fact LESS THAN NOTHING, since you afforded not even the minimally necessary information to afford a MINIMALLY CONSERED opinion!

    Keep quessing and pay twice or more to eventually it minimally right in the first place.

    in reply to: hardwood floors #285152

    have you considered the POSSIBILITY that your floors mnight contain a layer of WAX? regards removal of paint splatter? Tried a wet removal tactic involving some super fine steel wool?

    A few clues about the present floor finish, what you’ve tried, vintage, age of the home, etc. MIGHT (read: would, obviously!) be helpful.

    Such ambiguous questions…do you even bother to think about what you’ve written before you click that post button?

    in reply to: Mold in air conditioner vent??? #285151

    you said: “The air conditioner is at least 12-years old, by the way, and I’ve never had any maintenance done on it.”


    Is it fair to ASSUME that despite your infrequent use of the system, that these odors were evidenced after a perior of USE?!?

    It is patently obvious by your post, that you have neither acquired nor performed minimal maintenance of your HVAC system. You also provide NO useful information to minimally assist a resonable hypothosis.

    Advice: get off your *** and spend a few bucks and have your system minimally serviced! expect to pay mor than a FEW bucks to make up for your failure to assure proper maintenance. At a minimum expect to pay T & M plus diagonositcs and travel time to replace or clean your condensate drain line/tube and clean the tray. This of course assumes you don’t have something awful (like the mere accumulation of dust, dirt, grime and possibly growth of nastyness in either you supply or return venting.

    in reply to: odor and stains #285150

    1) water sample testing by an INDEPENDENT EPA CERTFIED lab.

    2) IF WARRANTED, a call … “Hey culligan man!” for service.

    in reply to: removal of parque adhesive #285149

    look up cut back adhesive, coal tar based, removers. Be sure to review and pay attention to those that warn against using same with wood (porous) substraits, especially those of a conifer species.

    Your own milage may vary.

    The parque flooring lead was deciptive but interesting.

    in reply to: ice #285148

    Bleach and water or vinegar and water.

    How old is this refrigerator/freezer with ice maker?

    How is the connection to the house water supply made? (leaky saddle valve, for example?)

    How is the connection configured? flexible copper, clear vinyl tubing, etc.?

    Did the ice EVER taste good? do you know?

    Got stink in the fridge or freezer? (rotten food, strong onion or garlic, etc.?)

    Just what does “BAD” mean? what does it taste like? (nasty rotten, sulfur, rusty, iron taste? salty? like poop? what?..DUH!)

    How if the smell/taste of the “regular” water from the house tap?

    When was the last time you cleaned the drip pan? cleaned out the entire fridge/freezer and washed every thing down?

    To many other questions possible, you offer no useful information, period! (not even, for example your HISTORY with this appliance, its age, nor IF IT EVER made “tasty” ice cubes in the first place!!!!)

    in reply to: private well #285147

    You had the water supply independently evaluated (a sample taken and tested) by an EPA certified indenpendant laboratory. So you already know if you had a fecal coloform, heavy metals, awful chemical, had radioactive contamination, etc., before you even purcahsed this property, and have paid for similar compound analaysis every year since (at a minimum), that you had the pump, well, pressure tank, etc. inspected and maintained regularly by a certified agency/contractor. Lets further assume that you have same regularly serviced, inspected, maintained by same.


    You provide nothing useful nor relavant to even begin to investigate.

    It could be anything, for example a failure in a multitude of areas, a clog, a short, a drop in the table, a local drought, local activities diverting the path of the feeding aquifer, too many to much to hazard a guess.

    Form the stupidity, grossness, and ambiguous of your question, It could be ANYTHING. If you haven’t even EDUCATED YOURSELF on the BASICS of your PROPERTY’S WATER SUPPLY nor the system that provides it…you deserve nothing less than total amusement being displayed at your own stupidity for having made such a silly post in the first place! Caveat Emptor, you deserve whatever you get. Shame on you for not knowing even the basics about your situation to even pose a fact set WORTHY of a considered response!

    in reply to: Mildew on River Rock #285146

    need you have asked?

    2 things remove mildew stains/kill spores: UV light and chlorine bleach.

    Massive amounts of hydrogen peroxide and/or oxygen bleach might also have an effect.

    Whether or not this may inadvertantly effect your UNKNOWN TYPE of “river rock” can not be determined. Any old stone recovered from a river (universally considered rounded or “polished” by the tumbling action of water force and/or errosion can be called river rock!).

    Silly ambiguous questions deserve condensending replies!

    in reply to: Finishing an apartment #285145

    The chinese don’t even have universal plumbing codes, your health is at risk having purchased a sub-terranian un-occupiable space (with out so much as a fresh water tap!).

    the answer is simple (in this undisclosed region of China, the most populous country of the world!!!!). Move and purchase somethiing at minimum above ground level with finished, occupiable space.


    Does the cat have claws? front or back feet?

    If yes, then yes. If not, then no more than a fan blowing or basic air movement, or for that matter a rodent tracking fiberous dust.

    Asbestos wrapped pipe insulation should at MINIMUM be encapsulated, plain and simple. It should further be protected from invasive abrasion, or deteriorative action which could lead to fibers being available to airborne transmission.

    Our govenment is only concerned about friable asbestos fibers that are greater (measured in microns) in length and girth of a particular size and lesser than a maximum range of size, which in the great lobby influenced government policy makers and enforcers has been determined to (in this limited size range) to irritate and collect in certain areas of the lungs to cause scaring and eventual cancerous cell mutation – caused aspestosis and/or meso..phill..ioma (spelling?). Any fibers that are either shorter, thinner, fatter or longer than this determination has not been “found” to cause cancer by a judge and appellate and supreme court review to be “causal” to cancer. Its all a bunch of gobble-de-gook. Asbestos is asbestos period. If your cat can in any way crush, disturb, rack, rake, damage this covering either create a housing that prevents her from doing so, (by weight compression, stepping, vibration, or…egad, scratching, puncturing, etc. with her claws!) the known asbestos containing pipe insulation. Airborne..so as to be able to be inhaled or ingested via….contact, etc. fibers are at issue.

    The EPA site via USA.gov is full of info search asbestos.

    When in doubt have testing done, if found, when in doubt have professionally remediated or removed, and post action testing done. Don’t forget to retain such results and disclaim to any/all future interested parties. I suspect your worries should be focused beyond your cat. have or are planning on children in this house or future creation? What else do you have to worry about…mercury in tuna or swordfish you ate 10 years ago?….its all relative.

    in reply to: Which Wire is the Neutral One #285143

    on which side of the cable is attached to the white and black wires up in the fixture box.

    remove the fixture plate (after cutting off the CB or removing the fuse) and see which side, smooth, or ridged, each side of the lamp cord cable is attached to.

    It is kind of important to make sure you are connecting the correct side to the light fixture, otherwise changing a light bulb later might lead to a zap irrespective of the switch postion controlling this light fixture if you reverse “neutral” with the “hot”, should your body be grounded in the process of screwing in a new light bulb.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 82 total)