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to just have a two independant switch loops, one for your dimmable light, and the second a three-way switch loop and have one control be at your dimmer location, and the other at your remote location. That’s the simplest way to do it.
wiring two light fixtures in series (a.k.a. daisy chaining, i.e. as in xmas tree lights) even if a single-throw switch is between the two light fixtures, would not be legal.
The light fixtures would need to be wired in series-parallel.
Regarding dimming only the one light which in your design would be only controlled by your master or all off switch first switch, for the master switch loop, then series parallel to two switch loops, one off of dimmer, the other off of a single pole, single throw switch. In order to accomplish this I think you would actually need two regular “one way” switches and one dimmer control. Either way you can’t wire the two light fixtures in series interupeted by a simple switch. You don’t need a four-way switch or a three-way switch at all.
You could wire this by having a regular single throw single pole switch as your master on-off control, then two series parallel branch switch loops, each one to a single switch loop to single light fixture, one via a dimmer, the second via a simple single throw single pole switch. You can accomplish this so both your “master off” stiwch and your dimmer switch are at location A and your sometimes on, sometimes off, but always off if the “master” is off switch is at location B, or at location A.
was this paper or vinyl border?
a Solution of 1/2 laundry liquid fabric softner and 1/2 warm water works well for regular wall paper if it was a modern application.
If you have a natural fiber carpet after neutralizing the bleach you MIGHT be able to dye it, first touching up the bleached area, then dying the entire carpet.
If you have a ball valve then you probably wouldn’t be unsure that you have the valve open completly, but a gate valve is hard to know. Make sure you have it opened completely (if a knob, its right tight(closed), left-loose (open). If a gate valve- these are prone to fail/stick. Could be of issue.
Also, regarding the hammer, you might need to re-charge your plumbing system, as air chambers may have lost their air. Let us know if the other investigations didn’t resolve the problem.
you probably wanted an Oil-Based Polyurethane for your floor (these tend to mellow a golden yellow overtime), Poly-yer-a-thane (end rhymes with stain).
You need to tell us exactly what was put on the floor, better yet CALL THE COMPANY that MAKES whatever you have on our floor. Most have very helpful consumer hot-lines and will advise you.
Hopefully it wasn’t a mildew-cide containing deck top-coat. You wouldn’t want that IN your home/cabin.
Get a bucket and a stop watch, open the faucet all the way and measure how much time it takes to fill five gallons.
All shower heads have to be sold in the US with water saver features that restrict the flow to a certain Gallons per minute. California shower heads are even more restrictive.
I suspect you’re getting your correct flow. Report back your measurements. (time it takes to fill five gallon bucket).
Next the powerful “feel” of a shower is actually “kicked up” due to the aerator assembly. Possibly some gunk in there, read your instructions as to how to disassemble and clean out.
Gentle “rain” type larger shower heads are not designed to aerate the water flow – perhaps you might want to re-think your selection.
Since there are like 20 oversized shower heads, and LeonardoII isn’t a listed model (Romano or a SERIES NUMBER) try providing a model number.
Better yet call your contact number for the “Pegasus” brand and ask them FIRST.
yeah but MUCH LONGER.
You are substituting the threaded chandiller support rod for the micro-hood securing bolts, you’d need LONGER than your 14″ rod, as it would have to go through supporting structure ABOVE your ceiling finish, up through, say a hole bored throughjoist, or cross brace – that was ABLE to SUPPORT THE WEIGHT AND STRESSES of the microhood (prevent from twisting, racking, swaying, falling). Then the top of this threaded rod is locked washered and NUTTED (acting like a really long BOLT) and LOCKED from the top side of your ceiling structure.
Before you thread in the top of the microhood cabinet, you can slip on a decorative SLEEVE (like used in lamp assemblies, etc.) could be plastic/vinyl, painted or finished metal, etc. to HIDE the threaded rod (and keep grease,dust, etc. from accumulating on it).
You can get threaded rod in numberous different machined threadings and strengths, almost unlimited in length selections, then cut to length needed.
a combination switch can have two switches in one position.
There are also combination switches made especially for ceiling fans with lights (so you can control dimming of light/off/on and fan speed from a single switch location). Some really neat ones don’t even require extra wiring for a second switch, instead they work from a remote in the wall.
Although you’d need a 3-gang box for space requirements, you could use a 2-gang bevel and faceplate for your 2 combo switches.
The micro-hoods (combination range/stovetop exaust hood and microwave) are actually mounted on a bracket that is on the wall behind the microwave, said bracket has to be attached to stud support in the wall.
The front of the cabinet is then secured to the underside of the cabinet above. You could accomplish this with chandiler threaded rod but you would have to cross support the threaded rod so it couldn’t allow the front of the microwave to twist.
The elecrical receptacle (duplex) box is also contained in the overhead cabinet – because you MAY NOT have the microwave plugged in BEHIND the microwave as the plug itself has to be accessible and easily un-plugable WITHOUT REMOVING THE MICROWAVE (since you have to unplug it first before servicing it, certain cleaning activities, and changing light bulbs).
You can’t plug it in BELOW – that gets you into trouble with exposure to the cooking activites on the cook-top as well as the rules regarding height access and GFCI protection for countertop small appliance receptacles/circuits. That’s why the outlet has to be IN the cabinet or above.
There are “in wall” mounting kits available for REGULAR microwaves – that are designed to install in 18-24″ deep cabinets on a shelf – they are usually called “trim kits”, sort of like a wall-oven installation.
likely nothing. Only thing exausting should be warm air and condensation.
Granted your nearby open window may draw in some of that warmer air – and you might find that disagreable – but that’s about all.
Another good link
(the unlocking rail adjustments on the under side (floor side) are a major no-no – they don’t stay locked and a child underneath can dis-engage the rail and injury to the child can result (some deaths).
http://www.aap.org/family/inffurn.htm
I’m getting off my soapbox now.
If you cannot get the assembly instructions and parts list and verify that your specific model and componants haven’t been recalled, please don’t even think about using the crib.
Here is a link to the regs:
http://www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/waisidx_03/16cfr1508_03.html
Have been re-written since 1987. Check out same on the CPSC site.
many, many were recalled to to failure to meet even the improved standards developed in the earlier 80s.
Much has been learned regarding many previously unexplained crib deaths, and the many, many injuries suffered by infants and tots in cribs (entrapment, strangulation, hangings, falls, slide doors failing to remain locked, matress supports or brackets failing, etc. Not to mention the many recalls due to improper paint finishes, and small parts. Many cribs of that vintage (including ones that were never officially recalled – i.e. silent recall) posed entrapment hazards even by their design (corner posts, etc.).
Simmons themselves have had mandated publicized recalls as well as several silent (retrofit kits only upon private notification or request because of limited or no reported deaths/major injuries to the CPSC) recalls.
Frankly, even considering using a crib of such vintage, and especially without instructions, let alone knowing if it might have been identified for a recall – IMHO is completely irresponsible to even consider.
