MistressEll

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  • in reply to: Original poster idea. #283959
    MistressEll
    Participant

    I forgot to say that from your intersecting string grid, to mark the floor, before you snap a chalk line, use your plumb bob to mark your points along the floor, then from those points on the floor, snap your chalk line.

    Also meant to explain that for example a project like vinyl square flooring, if your floor has those hills and valleys or a pitch – your flooring will conform to the un-level plane and you’ll find yourself losing square – this is why you want multiple line grid on the floor and also why you might have to make corrections to a flatter level plane before you start laying your floor finish to maintain squareness and conform with the flooring manufacturer’s instructions (for example a laminate plank floor, ceramic tiles, vinyl tiles, sheet flooring, or whatever.)

    in reply to: floor #283958
    MistressEll
    Participant

    lawr78,

    I suggest you get yourself four nails or tacks and a bit of string, and a $2-5 dollar “speed square” and a measuring tape. Also get yourself some “chalk line”. You’re also going to need a floating bubble level, and a plumb bob to assure your string lines are actually level (most floor areas are never exactly a level plane, in fact they often have multiple pitches, etc. and may have hills and valley areas. You might try first marking a level line along the walls about a foot or so up from the floor using a 4′ bubble level for a straight edge and a coffee can with a long fish tank tubing with water and food coloring or using a laser level to mark a line (to attach level your intersecting string lines for establishing a square point in the room).

    Find your important visual points, like thresholds and determine your centerlines where you want patterns, etc. to be centered. Work a string line taught, then using your speed square to find the approximate attachment point of the second end of this second string, and attaching one side of your opposing string, at an intersection to your first mounted string line. determine 90 degrees off of each of the four corners. You can use your speed square to help get you at least close in this. Next, before actually marking your floor, check your squareness of the intersection measuring off of these intersecting strings using the 3,4,5 method (off of this intersection measure 3 units off of one leg, four units off of the other leg of the intersection, then measure between this 3 unit and 4 unit mark (using a marker on the string for example) the distance between the 3 unit point and 4 unit point should be exactly five units.

    This will establish your Square grid intersection.

    From this elevated grid you can then use the chalk string line to snap off square grid/lines on your sub-floor. (never assume that any wall is straight, plumb, or square).

    From this lay-out grid you can find square for even a round, ovate, whatever area.

    Hope that made sense, and/or it might have helped in your project.

    in reply to: oops, grr wrong link #261165
    MistressEll
    Participant

    is to use “adjustable” pulls. On the hole spacing, near the end of the drop down menu, choose adjustable for some more ideas (111 choices).

    in reply to: 2-7/8″ pulls (or 73mm pulls) #261164
    MistressEll
    Participant

    http://www.thehardwarehut.com/cabinet_knobs_pulls.php

    use this one, then click on “power search” and use the drop down menus to search ALL finishes, and 2-7/8 (73mm) size. They have 16 types listed for example.

    Hope this works better for you.

    in reply to: Pulls.. #261163
    MistressEll
    Participant

    There are many cabinet knobs/pull suppliers on the net, this is just one of them:

    http://www.thehardwarehut.com/cabinet_knobs_pulls-search_result.php

    When searching, use 2-7/8″ or 73mm pulls. Some searches will be found by using the decimal equivalent, i.e. 2.875 inches.

    (note, 2-3/4″ is more common are you quite sure of your measurements?).

    Good luck to you.

    in reply to: glue reomoval #260314
    MistressEll
    Participant

    acetone, or common nail polish remover.

    in reply to: Removing Facial Wax From Carpet #260312
    MistressEll
    Participant

    any hardware/box store. Usually find in the painting area.

    have you tried 1) freezing the area with an ice cube and scraping with a dull instrument, or
    2) placing kraft paper (like brown paper grocery bag paper) on top of the wax and ironing it (the paper on top of the carpet) with the iron on low (nylon/rayon) setting (no steam), changing paper often to draw/absorb the wax off of the carpet? Check tips on removing candle wax/parafin wax from carpeting, other tips might be found regards to removing ski (snow ski) wax.

Viewing 7 posts - 76 through 82 (of 82 total)