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One is to get some magnets – you can find some peel and stick flexible magnets that are for example designed to convert business cards into refrigerator magnets. use a pair – and place one on either side of the screen (nylon or aluminum) and they will hold to each other through the screen via their own magnetic power. Attach the (revealed by removing the waxed paper on one of them)desired design or sign to the sticky adhesive coated side.
Another easy to locate item are placards or tiny 3-D plastic painted figures which have been cut in two, and have a recessed (placed directional N-S pole magnets) magnet inside – you place one side of the figure on the outside of the screen and the other side on the inside – again the magnetic power of the magnets holds the item in place.
The other idea is to use screen paint and paint a design in bold contrast color upon the screen (in the early part of the last century it was very fashionable to have mural images painted on window screens!).
or the square root times four total.
I meant to explain this in stages, but in the middle of composing was interrupted by a phone call.
Then in my haste, having meant to click on PREVIEW message I accidentally clicked on the Post Reply button instead.
For the life of me I can’t figure out how to edit a post!
In the meantime, I had to scurry off to tend to the needs expressed by the telephone caller.
So, square root times two times two again, or simply the square root of your area times four (IF a perfect square or rectangle).
Of course if the poster could have just gone to the property NOW and actually measured the perimeter, something tells me he/she would have just done that.
I suspect it is a case of exploring a realty listing, or a tax assessor’s property evaluation, and doing some quick guestimating on a surface improvement materials cost, or comparing the assessed valuation report figures for a particular property. OR possibly that the poster didn’t understand the definition of linear meaning IN A STRAIGHT LINE.
A direct short – wiring error – I suspect you have made a wiring error, at the ceiling location. Your description (or lack thereof) of the branch circuit and the switch loop indicates this is the most likely.
You may have damaged (or excellerated the aging process) of your wiring and created a dangerous situation presently. I expanded further on another post in this topic string.
you should have determined if power from the panel was first at the ceiling fan location, then to the switch box, if power from the panel was first to the switch box, and looped back, or if power from the panel was first to the outlets then to the switch box, and where power returned from.
It sounds as though you made a wiring error in your ceiling fan installation.
With switch loops and light fixtures, not all black to black or white to white.
A clue that you have made a wiring error is evident in your description of the problem. A second clue is that you indicated 14/3 sheathed electrical cable went from the light/fan fixture TO the switch.
You need to determine the circuit path, and if it is a branch circuit which shares a neutral with another circuit or not (presently).
Second, you need to share information regarding what was there previously.
Third you need to supply information on what type of switch you have and how you have wired the fan, note you mentioned a SINGLE switch.
I suspect you have wired a non-grounded conductor to a grounded conductor (a HOT to a “neutral”). A common DIY error especially when they don’t have an understanding of switch loops, nor have they verified where power from the panel is, nor where the return is in a branch circuit (nor the switch loop).
the square of a number is a number times itself.
To have found the square footage (area) of the structure – you took one side of the square, the linear measurement(distance of a straight line) measurement from one corner times the linear measurement of the other side from the same corner and multiplied them.
The square root of this area measurement will give you the total linear measurement of those two sides. You then multiply that square root by TWO to get the perimeter linear measurement of footprint of the square/rectangle structure.
If you have indentations, protrusions (like alcoves, entries, cantillevers, or an ell shape, something other than a square or rectangle you’d have to say so.
Now, if your structure is a roundish shape other than a square or rectange (like an octagon or circle, or whatever) you’d have to say so also.
I really dislike ambiguous questions.
its likely acting like a sponge for moisture and off-gassing its nasty formalgihyde (spelling?) resin/glues and will continue to do so no matter what.
You *MIGHT* be able to seal the smells with a shellac sealer like original BIN.
Here is the rub: The underside, back (against the wall) edges, drawer backs, etc. would still be unsealed – yet able to absorb the ambient moisture produced in the bathroom during normal bathing/showering activities.
A bathroom exaust fan run during any water activites, and for sufficient time thereafter would be a must.
Of course if the “sweet” smell comes from something else (like a spill or other nasty odor) which was sucked up by the vanity via the FLOOR contact point – nothing is going to solve the problem other than replacing the vanity.
Something as simple as condensation from the toilet carried along a tiled floor to the vanity base can be responsible for this – of course other liquids/combinations could be responsible as well.
One man’s sweet is another man’s stink.
Then applying contact cement to both your surface base and the back of the veneer and letting it cure.
Next you take clean dowels or personally, I use recycled (CLEAN) vinyl Mini blind slats, placed on the surface of the flat area with the crown up, then set the veneer on top of the blinds. Next pull out the centermost blind slat and make contact – using a laminate roller, slowly roll out from the center, removing one slat on either side at a time, rolling, then pulling a slat from the opposite side of center, rolling, until you have finished.
Next you trim the veneer carefully.
If you are veneering a square edged table/desk top, first do the bottom/floor side of the overhanging sides, then the sides, then the top last.
IF the poster meant to indicate a flat ceiling but wanting to place square tiles in a diamond type pattern, again there will be waste on the perimeter, as with floor tiles, ceiling tiles ARE DIRECTIONAL normally, and when scribing to imperfect walls/planes – there is almost always waste (the second half of square cut on less than perfect triangle or needing more than half-a tile, often not able to be used.
The poster indicated the ceiling was pitched.
For example lets say that the North wall was 20 feet tall, and the South wall was 10 feet tall. The east and west walls go from 20 feet to 10 feet.
What the poster didn’t tell us was which way the ceiling pitched to the dimmension of the rectangle.
Your “square footage” calculations, Jasper, would give you the FLOOR area, and be fine for a FLAT ceiling above same.
The Original poster indicated a 45-degree angle, or a 12-6 pitch.
If the poster comes back and tells us WHICH dimmensional side of the rectangle is the HIGH wall and confirms his 45-degree angle with actually measuring the height of the walls to the ceiling – I can explain the EXACT formula to calculate the AREA of his PITCHED ceiling (or a roof area for that mater).
There are door stops which actually go on the hinge area – and are mounted using the hinge pins.
These are adjustable for the amount of arc swing you wish to set (using a threaded rod which you screw in to allow for a greater arc swing, or screw out (making the protruding rod longer) to restrict the arc swing. On the ends there are rubberized caps. Since their pressure/stop is in at the hinge area of the woodwork/moulding you don’t suffer damage to the walls, and since the rest at the hinge corner of the door – there is nothing protruding to catch your self on (stubbed toes, ripped pockets, etc.).
It is wise to have these on both the top and bottom hinge if the door is heavy. Solid wood doors, etc. with three hinges – consider having one on each hinge, carefully adjusted so as to avoid any stress on a particular hinge should the door be stressed in its open and stopped position (like someone falling against the door).
you LOSE the grandfather of that shut-off/lock-out requirement on the hard-wired appliance location when you replace the ORIGINAL appliance (with a used or new one).
in residental situations, especially since the microwave has user servicable parts (specifically usually several different lights etc, and cleaning activities) which the safety instructions include warnings to disconnect the appliance from electrical power prior to proceeding with activites.
If they are hardwired they MUST include a lockout/shut=off which is reachable and in sight of the appliance prior to moving it OR have lock-out breakers at the panel (doubtful either situation exists with 220 3-wire configuration).
Your kitchen aid appliance should have a set of wiring diagrams – usually these are packed and stored within the cavity of the appliance, often behind a panel which must first be removed.
Included in this diagram will be indications for wiring the applicance to a CORD SET (not included with the appliance) which can be acquired from the manufacturer, OR a compatible cord set meeting specifications can be used.
Then one would need to install a compatible receptacle for the appliance.
Electric power and home wiring is entirely different here in the US, as are our required safety provisions.
I suggest you consult a licensed qualified electrician.
this can be accomplished using a scribing tool, or even a cheap item called a compass.
Sometimes one needs to use an “offset” in addition – a “given” straight edge as a reference point, to transfer the scribed cut-line to the length of the board.
You should also find a reference for square before you begin and snap some chalk lines on the floor, not work from an “unknown” like a wall edge.
Finally, you can always scribe a pattern, using for example some stiff paper or builder’s felt, then trim the edge towards your work using a scribe and straight edge to shorten your pattern to line up with your straight work already laid.
Then transfer the scribed edge to your plank using the scribe tool of choice.
For determining angles from a straight plane one can use a simple plastic protractor. Then you’ll have to bisect the angle to adjust for your miter saw.
The additional charge computed for the 5th window installation likely low, as the first one or two would bear the cost burden of the “trip charge” etc.
You contracted to purchase the 5th window regardless. They likely left this 5th window with you for future installation.
Yes, it was entirely “professional” and contractually correct for them to re-compute the labor charge for four windows and still charge you full price for the five windows. About the only thing that “might” be questionable is the $150 amount regarding the credit which they should credit on the FRONT end of your financing contract, and if a “rule of 78s” type financing agreement (like a car loan, where the interest for the entire period is figured up front, so even if you pay it off early you still have to pay that interest that was computed for the entire original intended “life” of the loan), include in their “credit” the five or four years of interest. If it was a credit account type financing agreement (like a credit card/revolving credit etc.) where you can pay off the balance at any time and end up NOT paying the interest for the time after the payoff, then the first correction to the loan retroactive to the first date of the “charge” should be the adjustment credit for the labor installation of the 5th window.
Make sure you get a “credit memo” or adjustment letter IN WRITING from the dealer, AND confirmation from whomever they “factor” or sell the loan to (or the loan/financing underwriter).
And whether or not your local authority having jurisdiction requires/d a permit for the window replacement (many jurisdictions do).
Without some sort of indication about just what this “problem” was/is supposed to be we’re not going to guess for you.
If it is some sort of structural DEFECT which was hidden (like for example some yahoo created a window opening without a proper header/framing etc.) then Yes, it was professional for them to refuse to install a replacement window and advise you to get the “problem” corrected.
Your installation contract likely spells out some sort of limitation as to the scope of their work. Working on existing construction is always a risk that one will discover a surprise.
Hopefully you will monitor this thread, or posted so you get an email when others have responded (checked the watch box below the content field when you created this post).
Soliciting email from board participants isn’t likely to be responded to by the savy internet user, its a common phishing tactic.
