Forum Replies Created
August 10, 2007 at 7:59 pm in reply to: Slippery Tile #285090
The cheapest and easiest way to make your tiles non slip is to pour is a solution of Hydrofluoric acid on to your tiles.
Hydrofluoric acid is used for acid etching tiles and has the ability to dissolve the glass that is on top of your tiles preventing them from being slippery.
Since you have a pool you are use to using Hydrochloric acid to keep your pool in balance so Hydrofluoric acid also needs be handled with the same safety precautions.
You can buy matching timber coloured wood putty that is designed to fill nail holes.
Below are a couple of the products you can buy.
While you are filling the nail holes you will be up close to them and you might think you are still going to be able to see the holes when your finished. But when you stand up and take a step back you will find you wont even notice them.May 30, 2007 at 7:30 pm in reply to: non slip solutions for shower floors #282468
There are a few of ways to make your floor and shower stall non-slip.
The first way is use tastefully looking self adhesive non-slip stickers.
The second way is to apply a do it yourself slip proof coating.
The third way is to have a professional apply and chemical non-slip treatment.
http://www.posigrip.com/posi/products.aspMay 25, 2007 at 10:45 pm in reply to: remove wood stains #282352
I afraid to say the sulfuric acid in the battery has eaten though the lacquer on your oak dining room table.
The only way the fix it properly is the strip the entire table back to the bare wood and re-lacquer your table.
For now as a temporary fix, is to keep putting timber oil on the damaged area so it’s not so noticeable.
Don’t forget to have a look at your house hold contents insurance to see if you have accidental damage cover. You might be able to get them to pay for your repairs.
If you would like to fix your table yourself the site below gives you good instructions.
http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detailed/10282.shtmlMay 24, 2007 at 7:12 pm in reply to: deck/patio #282328
If it was me and needed a quick fix, what I would do is, pull up the raised or sunken uneven bricks and back full or remove the soil or tree root that’s causing the problem. I wouldn’t get too carried away, just concentrate on the obvious out of place pavers.
Next I would wet down the area and pour on the pavers house hold bleach or pool chlorine and scrub the pavers with a broom then rinse off. Leave the pavers are for two days without rain to completely dry, then seal the pavers with concrete sealer. The concrete sealer protects the pavers and gives the pavers the wet look.
Just a note: Make sure the pavers are completely dry, if there is still moisture in the pavers and you put a sealer on them, the sealer will go a milky colour when it dries.
If your deck has tannin stains use a deck cleaner that has Oxalic Acid in it. Pour it on and scrub with a broom and rinse it off. If it has mould and mildew stains use Oxygen Bleach cleaner or 30 Seconds Outdoor cleaner.
After a couple of days when the deck is dry put on two coats of deck oil.
If you have garden around your deck and patio cover your garden with plastic for protection. The deck and paving cleaners can harm your plants.
When you have cleaned and sealed your deck and patio you want even notice any imperfections that may still be there. I am speaking from personal experience. I am half way though doing the same thing with the paving around my pool. Then next I will be doing my timber deck.
Try using Liquid Nails or Construction Adhesives.May 9, 2007 at 9:01 pm in reply to: mold on outdoor decking #281983
There is a great outdoor cleaning product called 30 Seconds. It kills Algae, moss, mold, mildew. I have used it myself. Just pour some of the 30 seconds into a pump spray bottle and spay it all over your timber deck and leave it for a couple of minutes, Then spay it off with your water pressure washer.
Have a look at the site below for more details
http://www.30seconds.net/May 3, 2007 at 9:10 pm in reply to: smelly bathroom #281847
Hope this helps solve your problem. A friend of mind had a similar problem with there basement bathroom that they hadn’t used in months. The smell was awful. It turned out to be the U Trap drain in the bathroom floor had dried out. They poured a couple of buckets of water down there to re-fill the trap to stop the raw sewage smell coming though. In know time the smell had gone. Also if you haven’t used your shower in a long time pour water down there as well.
What really helps to get your drain pipes flushed clean is to bring your garden hose though the bathroom window and turn it on full strength down the traps and into the toilet. Don’t forget to put some old towels on the floor to prevent water escaping out of the door.
Lets hope it’s a simple as that.May 3, 2007 at 7:33 pm in reply to: concrete patio fix #281846
The easiest way to level your concrete patio it to buy self leveling cement or self leveling concrete. Also to make sure it sticks to the old concrete add a concrete bonding agent to the mix.
The sites below show you some of the products available on the market.
http://www.edisoncoatings.com/html/Self_Leveling_Concrete_Floor_T/self_leveling_concrete_floor_t.htmApril 23, 2007 at 3:39 am in reply to: Salt water swimming pool #281533
I have a salt water pool and have gone though 3 Salt Chlorinators. I think they are hopeless. When this one decides to kick the bucket I won’t be replacing it. The brand of salt water chlorinator I have is called WATERMAID and I have a Hurlcon Sand Filter. You can see them in the site below
The problem I find is they don’t make enough chlorine in time to stop the pool going green when there are a lot of people in the pool. If one body swims in the pool it’s fine.
Even when I make sure the salt levels are good and I balance the ph and run the filter for 12 hours its still not good enough.
The only way I can make sure the pool stays safe and balanced is to top it up with dry chlorine. I put around 2 cups of dry chlorine into an old odd sock, tie the end off and put it into the skimmer box. It works great doing it that way, I have tried several times dissolving the dry chlorine in a bucket of water but it still stays cloudy and full of chlorine residue. The old odd sock trick works great preventing the chlorine residue getting into the pool.
I am the one how is in charge of taking care of the pool, my husband hasn’t got a clue on what to do. (Some how I think he likes it like that.) “Less work for him”. I find you practically need to be a Chemist to keep the pool balanced making sure the pool is not to acidic and not to Alkaline and working out how much soda ash, acid and chlorine to add. In summer holidays when the pool is in constant use I have the test the pool at least twice a day to stop it going green or if we have a lot of rain.
Like I said above, I find the Salt Water Generator works fine if hardly anyone uses the pool. As soon as there is a heap of kids in the pool the Chlorinator can’t manage. We use our pool all year round because we gas heat it in winter so we always have people in the pool.
Hope my answer helps you out.
Regards from NoeleneFebruary 9, 2007 at 11:19 pm in reply to: Tile And Tub Surround #279604
Yes you can tile over the old tub surround. When you buy the adhesive let the supplier know what you are tiling over so you can get the best adhesive for the job.
If you remove the old tub surround, you may find you can’t remove the remains of the old adhesive so you will end up having to replace that part of the wall.December 25, 2006 at 11:47 pm in reply to: Yellow Paint (toning the brightness) #278133
I painted my family and kitchen rooms a nice happy yellow and had to go running for my sunglasses. It was a bit like looking at the movie National Lampoon Christmas Vacation. When Chevy Chase …. Clark Griswold turns the outside Christmas lights on and it just about blinds everyone.
I decided to give it a week before I did anything. I hung my pictures back on the walls and to my surprise it didn’t look anywhere near as bright as it first did. Try giving it a week before you do anything else in case the same thing happens for you. I did do one thing and that was I painted one of the walls in dark blue as a feature wall and then hung some nice stainless steel famed prints on there. The dark blue feature wall complements the yellow. Maybe give that a try. “it doesn’t have the be dark blue”
Hope this helps you out.
Regards from NoeleneDecember 6, 2006 at 5:55 pm in reply to: skytunnel installation… #277644
The Velux Australian site has download installation instructions.
in order to download the instructions you need to have Acrobat Reader on your PC. Click on [TWF – Sun Tunnel] for the download
Hope this helps you out.
regards from NoeleneNovember 22, 2006 at 4:49 pm in reply to: Can ceramic tile be laid over ceramic tile? #277173
I have also tiled over old tiles and it turned out great. The main thing is the correct adhesive for tiling over a smooth surface. A good friend of mine is a professional tiler he told me it would be fine to tile over tiles, both floor and walls. He said that’s what a lot of professional tilers do.
If the doors in your new home have already been hung you will most likely have to have some timber shaved off them.November 21, 2006 at 5:24 pm in reply to: Floating wall shelves #277148
Here are 2 sites that will help you out. The diynet site looks like a good way to install the shelves. When I first took a quick look it didn’t make sense. But then I realized they turned the L shape bracket on its side and screwed it in the underneath hollow part of the shelf and then attach it to the wall.
So instead of the shelf sitting on the flat part of the bracket were you would be able to see it either going up the wall behind the books or down the wall below the books, it’s now turned on it’s side so the shelf rests on the sharp side edge.
After seeing how it was done I’ve decided to build some myself.
Regards from Noelene