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Putting wood in there “would” be a mistake in the making. A good tiling job will last decades if sealed right. Only periodic cleaning/re-sealing is necessary.
Find nice patterns/colors in beige/wood tones for a nice “color-flow” from a wood area to the tiled area.
Thanks!
FaronHi Guys,
Another slightly better option is the shellac-based “BIN” primer by Zinsser. This is a very good primer for smoke-damaged structures, and sealing out pet odors that are in wood-flooring plywood.
It’s somewhat smelly due to the alcohol base (shellac resins dissolved in alcohol), but a very good primer for this use.
>>> For BEST odor control, 2 coats are needed.
>>> For ordinary pre-paint priming, 1 coat is fine. I used it in our family-room to prime over a Semi-gloss sheen.
Thanks!
FaronYeah, this isn’t going to be pretty (or easy!)
>>> ALL drywall HAS to come out. Clean studs, etc. with bleach and water…rinse. Let dry for a month. You’ll have a big health problem if you don’t…and it’ll only get worse.
>>> Invest in a good de-humidifier too.
>>> Many homes in Fargo had to go through this in a couple of floods we had.
>>> Before starting though: hire a good home-inspector. They can hopefully offer some tips too.
Sorry!
FaronHello Pat,
Most Exterior paints/primers need at least 50 degrees to properly flow/dry-down.
>>> Not only does the AIR temp have to be 50+, but the surface you’re painting has to be also.
>>> If you have a 55deg. afternoon for a couple hours, the surfaces on the N & E sides probably won’t be!
>>> Plus, most paints need 3-4 hrs. drytime between coats. If you can only do 1 coat/day, you run the risk of “dew-flatting” or other wetting conditions, if the night-time weather doesn’t cooperate.
>>> Just wait for reliably warmer weather. Don’t leave a primer on all winter either…after 30 days, most primers are too “hard” to accept a topcoat(s), and must be re-primed.
Thanks!
FaronHi guys,
You’re right…I shouldn’t keep things so “bottled up” 😉
(If anyone thought I was a little “heavy”, I’m sorry. I was just listing reasons to tell her dad)
Have a good one!
FaronHello jsp,
Your description tells me you used white primer under a very dark color, which 90% of the time results in more than 3 coats!
>>> Dark colors are very transparent because of all the added colorant. The darker you go, the less “hiding power” a paint has.
>>> Dry-time is also DOUBLED between coats.
>>> Where I work, you wouldn’t have gotten out the door without a gray primer, & instructions to wait 5-6hrs. between coats.
>>> What color/brand did you use???
>>> If you want to go back to Cream, re-prime with WHITE primer, then 2 coats of Cream.
>>> The paint peeled off on the tape because it forms a tough “skin” on top of the tape. You need to cut at the tape-edge with a razor when done painting.
Good luck,
FaronHello meme,
I’d LOVE to say this won’t take a long time, but it will. Oxalic bleach can lighten wood TOO easily sometimes, so be careful.
>>> To get a decent finish, you’ll need 3 coats of (maybe) a polyurethane, varnish, or Lacquer.
>>> From my experience, Poly’s and varnishes need a day between coats. 1 coat won’t do it…3 will! You also need to lightly sand between each coat.
>>> Get some estimates from some cabinet shops. They could spray in a day (usually with spray Lacquers) what would take a week of hassle for you or I!
Thanks!
FaronHi Guys!
Another idea…Zar has an “Antique Flat” polyurethane-VERY low gloss.
However, you would need to lightly sand your wood with some 220 grit paper after they’ve been cleaned. Otherwise, your just sealing-in dirt & oils.
It’s time-consuming, but the results are worth it! Use a $10-$15 black china bristle brush for OIL finishes, and put it in paint-thinner to clean after each of 3 coats. Each coat takes about a day to dry enough before re-coating.
Good luck,
FaronHello Leah,
Wow! This is a new one! Chemically, most primers get too brittle after a month, and lose their ability to bond to new paint coats. If he waits a month to paint, the primer has lost all of its ability to do what he put it on for.
>>> Primers have no ingredients to form a “sheen” on the wall to resist water vapor.
>>> Primers are chemically built to bond to a paint coat, which is what gives “color-depth”.
>>> Primers ARE NOT EVEN REMOTELY cleanable.
>>> Even if tinted, most primers are somewhat transparent. The color-eveness must be horrible!!
>>> Bring him some paint chips!! You can’t just put the same formula into a paint and have it be the same color.
Good luck!
FaronDo you have separate burners (coil-style)?
>>> Or is it the “glass” seamless style?
There may be some specialty coatings out there, but long-run durability is questionable.
>>> It’s done so rarely from what I’ve heard about anyway!
>>> MAYBE an appliance dealer might have some leads on coatings and/or a different color replacement top.
FaronBecause you’re going to a light color from existing DARK surfaces, use Zinsser’s 123 Latex primer. In your case, 2 coats of primer might be called for. Another good one is Zinsser’s Odorless Oil-based primer. YES you CAN use latex over oil just fine.
>>> Then TWO coats of the actual paint color.
First: Lightly wash the walls with a gentle back&forth motion (using clean water) and let dry a day. Don’t use swirling strokes.
>>> This’ll give PRO results if you use top-line paint, rollers, and brushes.
Thanks!
FaronThis is a thought-provoking thread!
A few years ago, I was kind of curious why our paint mgr. had a 4′ x 1′ board with stripes of white, gray, pink and burgundy on it.
>>> First section was white, with wine paint strips painted on it, each representing one more coat of paint. I could still see through the 4th coat of the color.
>>> 2nd section: primer tinted 75% of main formula. Primer looked pink, didn’t fare any better than white background.
>>> 3rd section: Medium-gray primer (pencil-lead gray). Burgundy looked like color chip after 2 coats of color.
REASONS:
*** The dark tinting-bases don’t have much TI02 in them (Titanium dioxide). It’s a heavy white powder that hides great. However, for deep colors to look vivid, most of the TI02 has to be left out.
*** PLUS, some colors take 12 oz. of Red/magenta colorants. These colorants have almost no hide by themselves, since they aren’t “earth-based”. If you picked up a qt. of Magenta colorant, and then picked up a qt. of the TI02, the white is a LOT heavier!
— Soooo, when you have a lot of “thin” colorant going into a transparent base, it’s like painting red “kool-aid” on the wall.
— Optically, white reflects all colors. That’s why reds are so “see-through” over white.
— Optically, gray reflects little. Therefore, Burgundies look more color-correct with usually only 2 or 3 coats. I have honestly heard horror-stories from people (and Painters) needing 4 and 5 coats of these colors over a white base, even if it was a white primer.
— Bottom line…Primers can usually SAVE you money, especially in these situations.
Regards,
FaronA couple of my comments might’ve been “heavy”
towards Homebild. I apologize.
>> However, my “now admitted” tangent of priming scenarios is 100% correct though.
>> My “strawman” arguments are 100% fact if a repainting scenario involved what I described.
>> IF their sheen is a Semi-gloss, I’d prime, because it’s a slicker surface.
>> Yes I mix a lot of paint, but have done a lot of painting too. I’ve developed a lot of “behind the scenes knowledge” from both sides of the fence, which I’ve found rewarding.
>> Also, I never meant to imply priming between each coat of paint had to be done!!
THAT’S a little ridiculous! From a chemical-bonding-property viewpoint however, new coats of paint bond better to a NEW primer-film, than to existing paint…some of which are slick/dirty, and therefore won’t hold a new paint-film as well as it COULD.
Have a good one,
Faron…I have to point out a few holes in your logic:
P.S. I work in a busy Hardware/Paint/decorating center (NOT Home Depot or a big-box), and I can’t afford to tell people it’s OK not to prime…we’ve been thanked way too many times for our advice!
** Primers have different resins in them than paint. There are different primers for different situations too…obviously!
** MANY times, people ask me why there’s small stains in their new paint coats. 99% of the time, they’ve taken down wallpaper and THOUGHT they’ve cleaned it good enough. Turns out, they didn’t use a good stain-blocking primer. The water in a Latex paint film reactivates the glue-bits, and sure enough, it bleeds into the paint film.
** Older homes have plaster walls and/or many other repairs. If you just slap paint on, the “sheen” of their new paint will look like hell, because of uneven surface porosity. Priming eliminates this porosity variance, letting the sheen develope to its proper level and eveness.
** Dark colors often need a GRAY primer under them because the base to handle all the colorant is very “transparent”, and so are the colorants themselves. Violets, Magentas, and yellows are “manufactured” colorants, and have little hiding power. Because of all the colorant in these colors, each coat takes twice as long to dry between coats too. So unless you like putting on 3, 4, or 5 coats of some burgundies/reds, use a GRAY primer! I’ve seen many instances of this, and some customers have come to our counter to thank us for educating them.
** Please try to refrain from making such blanket statements when it’s obvious you don’t have much expertise in THIS area.
Respectfully,
Faron
