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I follow a couple of plumbing forums, (one exclusively for pros). The main impression that I get about Shark Bite connectors is that they are not very well received by the professional plumber because it makes anyone feel as if they can be a plumber, regardless of their basic understanding of the craft. I believe that most plumbers admit (grudgingly at times) that Shark Bite fittings work as advertised, but point out that they are not ideal in many situations.
Glass blocks would not be useable in the method that you suggest, as they are too thick. They come in 8X8X3″, 8X8X4″, 12X12X3″ and perhaps others. But as you see, all are too thick to use in a door. Have you considered installing a transom window over the door which will let in light while mainting privacy. We did that in an addition several years ago, not for the light, but to use leaded windows, as my wife has that skill. If you have your heart set on a window in a bedroom door(??), how about just using an exterior door with whatever size light you want. You could either use a curtain or cover the glass with translucent contact paper. Removal of a panel in a true panel door is not very practicable.
Itsreally… Was my comment about the liklihood of the adhesive permanently staining the terrazzo incorrect? Just aksing for information.
I believe some of the info you received is incorrect. Terrazzo is a stone/masonry product and I don’t think that the adhesive could “eat through” it. However, it probably is permanently stained by the adhesive. Additionally, where the tack strips were nailed into the terrazzo you will have holes chipped out. My guess is the terrazzo is no longer useable as a finished floor surface.
What type of shower do you have in the upper bathroom? Is it a one-piece fibreglass stall, constructed in place tile shower, bath tub with shower? More info is needed.
More detail is needed in your question. Specifically what is the problem with your replacement ceiling tile(s)?
It takes weeks for the putty to cure. As the DAP 33 is oil based, an oil based primer will remain tacky for quite a while also.
My question is ‘did the door close properly prior to the replacement of the liner?’. If so, I imagine that in replacing the interior of the door, that you have warped or pulled the door out of square to some extent, which hinders the proper closing action.
I have a 11721, which although not identical, I’ll bet it works the same way. Place the front roller against a firm surface (I use my work bench) and press forward firmly with the handle. This compresses a spring in the belt tension assembly. Rock the body slightly to one side (I forget if it is to the right or left) and it will lock in the compressed position which gives slack in the belt. Slip the old belt off and the new one on, being sure to note the proper rotation of the new belt. Release the roller in the reverse manner.
Unless the blades have been sharpened too many times, there is no reason not to have yours sharpened and reinstall them.
Removing the decking for re-use would require a greater degree of care to avoid marring or damaging the boards, as would being careful to retreive all the clips. I would just expect a professional to charge for the additional time such care required. I hope all goes well. This sounds like a win-win situation. Your Dad gets a new deck, you flip over the old decking and get a new high-end deck surface and less material is dumped in the county land fill.
I would think that the careful removal of the decking and salvaging of installation clips would greatly increase the cost to your father, as disassembly will be much slower and require significantly more labor, for which he will be charged by the contractor. Have you considered salvaging the decking yourself and save him some of the expense?
When one says “drop in” stove, I think of a range unit which is dropped in a hole in the countertop. I consider a built-in stove to be a “slide in” appliance. The drop in range is usually removed (after disconnecting the fuel/power source} by just lifting it up out of the counter. Sometimes there are clips underneath which must be removed. A slide in stove is usually held in position with 4 screws, accessed after the door is removed. After turning the power off at your breaker, slide the stove forward enough to get to the power cable. Disconnect the stove cable and finish removing the stove.
