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Have you checked to see if there is not drywall under the existing paneling? If so, you may do a better job with less work by removing the paneling, filling in the nail holes in the drywall then painting.
There are guides, masking and shields, but I find that just painting with a steady hand is the best way for me.
The first place that comes to my mind is a local cabinet shop. Also, most any resonably skilled well equiped woodworker should also be able to duplicate your damaged cabinet door.
I have never seen generic folding ladder hardware for sale, and I have looked on a couple of occasions. However, if you can identify the maker of your ladder, you may be able to contact the firm and see if they will sell replacement parts.
Repairing the hole in the exterior wall depends on what type of construction you have. If brick or other masonry material, fill the hole with mortar. If other, advise what you have and we will give suggestions. The interior wall is most likely drywall, so the proper patching material would be drywall compound.
Come on Bruno, if you don’t think this is a good idea just say so. Don’t beat around the bush. (By the way, I concurr.)
This is not the sort of issue which can be resolved from afar. An on-site inspection is the only way to determine the cause of the leak and what should be done to prevent future leaks. As a general rule when you have a roofing/ceiling leak, you should check the obvious causes first such as clogged gutters/downspouts, or visible damage to the roof.
Thanks, RS. I believe this is just what I need. The actual unit is at my farm in Miss, and I can’t check it till later this week, but it seems to be the same as mine. The only difference that I know of from this distance (200 mi.) is that mine does not have a remote control.
I believe you have found the problem. If you cannot free up the sprocket you probably need to replace the chain bar.
It could be that the centrifugal clutch is worn out. Have you checked to see that the sprocket on the nose of the bar is turning freely?
Are you referring to a drop-in range or complete stove? The drop-in range usually literally drops in an appropriately sized hole in the counter top. It could have hold-down clips underneath, but not usually. Be sure to power off the circuit before disconnecting the electrical line. A drop-in stove normally just slips in and is supported by the cabinets on either side. There are probably screws into the cabinets through the flange.
My parents’ house had what sounds exactly like your patio door arrangement. It wasn’t necessary to remove the frame/jamb from the opening to get either the rolling or stationary door out of the frame. The rolling door just lifted out of the track, swinging the bottom out till free. The stationary one removed in the same way, except that there were one or two screws in the frame which had to be removed to allow the door to be lifted. But if you are just replacing the rollers, why do you need to remove the stationary door?
