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Was your Kilz well stirred prior to use? I have used it in the past with no problems covering drywall patching. What size nap did you have on your roller when it sagged? You may have been using too much paint on your roller. I imagine you purchased the latex Kilz. Their most effective primer is the solvent-based product. It dries much faster than the latex product, also.
If you are removing the drywall, it is usually simple to replace one bowed wall stud. Just cut it two at an angle with a sawzall and pull the two pieces out, toenail in your new stud.
I personally would not paint laminate, but as this is such a frequently asked question, I have saved a previously posted thread on the topic. I’m sorry, but I don’t know to whom it should be attributed.
“Painting regular laminate is really one of the easiest surfaces to cover. All you will require is some sandpaper (about 80 to 120 grit), trisodiumphosphate (TSP), a high-density foam roller and tray and Melamine Paint.
First, you need to sand the laminate surface. This may require a little elbow grease to really remove the gloss of the laminate but it is worth the time it takes to do this as it is integral to long term paint adhesion. Once the surface has been well sanded, wash with TSP, which is a detergent that you mix with water and is good for removing gloss and grease from surfaces (be sure to where gloves when handling TSP). Once you have washed the surface rinse thoroughly with clear water and allow the laminate surface to dry completely.
Melamine Paint is a relatively new paint product designed to cover laminate surfaces. It is an oil paint with urethane reinforcement so it does not need a coat of urethane applied on top once it is dry. Melamine creates a hard and durable paint surface but it best to be applied in three thin coats rather than one thick coat. The high-density foam roller is an ideal way to apply Melamine as it will not roll bubbles into the paint so the surface appears smooth and even. For vertical surfaces like cabinet doors, it is best if you remove them and place them on a horizontal surface while painting. For high-traffic counter tops I recommend creating a granite or speckled look with several colours of Melamine applied using a sea sponge. This will help hide any marks or dings that end up on the surface.
Be sure to allow the Melamine to completely cure before you put anything heavy on it as this may mark your painted finish. Curing takes around six days.”
Is this a new sound, or has it always sounded like this? If new, have you changed anything such as the water valve or flush valve? Does the sound quit after the tank refills?
From your photos it appears that there is no shower pan membrane extending up the wall. If this is the case, your shower needs to be completely removed and rebuilt in an approved manner. A particularly good source for advise concerning bath and shower tile issues is found here: http://www.johnbridge.com/about/
It looks as if your shower wall on the right lacks proper support for the tile substrate. I doubt there is any simple or quick fix for the situation. You will probably need to remove and reframe at least that wall, then retile it. This is not a DIY project for someone who has not had at least some minimal tilework experience.
A little clarification is needed. Do you mean that the bottom of the sash is rotten, or the sill? The sash is the part of a double-hung window that slides up and down. The sill is more likely to have rot. It is the bottom frame member of the window opening, that the sash comes in contact with when it is closed.
Cobblewood is a very rare type of lumber, and now nearly unavailable as the scarce cobble trees are a protected species from the upper amazon region of Brazil. I believe that Canada bans it import with the exception of lumber harvested prior to 1995.
Look carefully when you purchase TSP (Trisodiumphosphate), because in recent years most products that I have seen labled as TSP indicate that they are “phosphate free”. How can trisodiumphosphate be “phosphate free”? Be sure you get the real thing, as it will be more effective.
Cash Acme, the mfg of Shark Bite fittings says that their fitting is “certified for no access applications”. I don’t know whether it is permitted by code, however. I have some plumbing renovation to do in my basement and I probably will use a couple of SB connectors, but not in a hidden location.
If what you have are truly attic turbines, then they are wind-driven and no electric motor is involved. An attic turbine can be seen from outside the house. This is what it looks like: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&q=attic+turbine&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=676695954162678353&ei=P0qqTKj9FoKBlAeGvMW3DQ&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBYQ8wIwAA#
If this is what you have, the noise is probably a worn bearing on the turbine. My mother has two on her house and one became noisy. I just jammed a small wooden shim between the rotating head and the body which stopped the spinning and the noise. The turbine still works fine as a static attic vent. If this is the type of vent you have, an electrician is not needed, just a typical handyman. Good luck.This type of fix can be done either from the attic or on top of the roof, whichever one is easier to access and safer.
