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What type is the ceiling – is it drywall or plaster? If it is plaster, is it on wood lath strips,expanded metal lath or perforated plasterboard? What caused the hole? Did someone step through it from above, or was it water damage? If water damage, any leaks must be repaired first. Reply with a bit more information so proper advise can be shared. Thanks
Why did the plumber suggest that you replace the supply lines? What is the problem with the existing plumbing? Did this problem exist before the water heater was replaced?
If this is going to be a permanent installation, I would not use washer hose connectors within and behind cabinets. If you are going to have to tap into the lines anyway, why not go ahead and run a proper copper line to your washer. You did not mention how you plan to install the drain stand pipe for the washing machine. Have you considered that issue, or is it already in place where you will have the appliance?
With proper dust collection system for the individual tools and the ambiant air, I don’t think you will have any significant issues with your existing furnace.
Haclift – I beg to differ with you. Alabama does not have any hot dry weather. We have hot humid weather or cold humid weather!!
Pbranca – considering the basic nature of your original question, I assume you have very little practical electrical wiring experience. I suggest that you contact a qualified electrician to assist you.
Ceramic tile is one of those items which would not do well painted, especially for a floor. A hard slick surface is never a particularly good surface for paint to adhere to. Additionally the wear which a floor receives would exacerbate the adhesion problem. I think this would be an unsatisfactory project.
Had you considered shimming out the recessed studs rather than shaving down the ones that stand proud? This might be easier.
My guess is that you have some type of fuel problem. I would replace the fuel filter if that has not been done recently. You might remove the float bowl on the carburetor to see if it has any water or rust in it.
I personally like vinyl siding for relatively modern homes. The relative low cost coupled with the minimal maintenance makes it very appealing to me. I have it on my own home and have installed it on many other applications (mostly small churches). I also am quite partial to Hardieplank siding for painted applications. It is a cement fibre product which is termite proof, fire and rot resistant and holds paint much better than wood. I have used it on my pre-Civil War farm house in rural Mississippi to replace rotted pine clapboards.
I think that ease of running the lines is the reason for using PEX. I gather that it is not a DIY job, however, as some rather specialized expensive equipment is required as well as the learning curve needed. One of the plusses is the ‘home run’ style of plumbing to a central manifold with central stops for each line.
Here is a solution that I use with success to remove mildew from the exterior of a house: 2 tablespoons dish detergent
(Dawn, etc.)
2/3 cup Trisodium Phosphate (TSP)
1 quart bleach
3 quarts waterI mix the ingredients in a pump-up garden sprayer and apply to the affected area, let it do its work for a couple of minutes then spray the wall with a garden hose to rense off the solution. It works great. A commercially prepared solution which works well also, but costs a lot more is Jomax, mfd. by Zinsser (http://WWW.Zinsser.com)
Trim replacement is not necessary as long as there is no rot associated with the mildew. As long as the surface is properly prepared (mildew removed) a couple of coats of mildew resistant house paint should do the trick. Even if you don’t use their cleaner, I would recommend Zinsser paints for this.
