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ceilingfanrepairParticipant
I take it Home Depot no longer sells the fan? If it is a recently discontinued item some stores may still have a display or old stock. Otherwise your best bet is eBay.
ceilingfanrepairParticipantThe switch should be wired just like the old one– whatever wire went to L goes to L, whatever wire goes to 1 goes to 1, etc.
Am I understanding that the original switch only had three wires? There are two different types of 3 wire switches, one for 2 speed fans, another for 3 speed fans. How many speeds is your fan supposed to have?
PS what make and model is the fan?
For more information about ceiling fan replacement parts:
ceilingfanrepairParticipantOk, what changed? Did you jsut install the fan? If so, what did you wire it to, and what was there before? Or has this always been installed and the problems just started happening?
Chances are if it is tripping something isnt wired right. Here are instructions on how to wire most ceiling fans:
ceilingfanrepairParticipantThe easiest thing to do would be to go to Home Depot and find a downrod that matches. However most fan downrods are standard, if you cant find what you need at Home Depot (if it was a Hampton Bay fan Home Depot should sell all the downrods you need), try a lighting showroom or any other place that sells fans.
For more information on ceiling fan parts:
ceilingfanrepairParticipantYes, they need much longer downrods. A 2′ downrod would be acceptable. But that may not be the only problem, you may have crappy fans! What make and model are they? On a higher ceiling it is especially important to have quality fans. I recommend industrial-grade fans, American-made fans, or something with a similar type motor.
For more information on ceiling height and fan quality, among other things:
http://www.ceiling-fans-n-more.com/ceiling-fan-faq.php
If you’re interested in industrial fans or american made fans, here are the links to more info on both:
http://www.ceiling-fans-n-more.com/american-made-ceiling-fans.php
http://www.ceiling-fans-n-more.com/industrial-and-commercial-ceiling-fans.php
ceilingfanrepairParticipantThere’s no such thing as a generic diagram– many fans are different.
Do you still have the original (presumably) broken switch? Are you sure you got an exact replacement?
Did you keep careful note of where the wires were connected on the original switch and connect them to the exact same places on the new switch?
For more information on ceiling fan parts:
ceilingfanrepairParticipantHere are instructions on how to balance a ceiling fan to keep it from wobbling:
http://www.ceiling-fans-n-more.com/blade-balancing-issues.php
ceilingfanrepairParticipantAre you talking about replacing broken pullchains in existing fans and lights, or adding new ones where none existed?
Assuming the former . . . replace the pullchains with those identical to the broken ones and wire them the same way.
Assuming the latter . . .
If your fans do not have pullchains then chances are they have remote controls or the like. Light fixtures without pullchains, the only way to add them is to drilla hole in the housing the size of the pull chain coller, attach it, and wire it in series with the socket(s).
FOr more information on ceiling fan parts:
ceilingfanrepairParticipantCheck with the manufacturer first. If you dead-end there, ceilingfanparts.com and lampdepot.com are reputable companies that offer a variety of 4 and 5 wire capacitors.
For more information on ceiling fan parts:
ceilingfanrepairParticipantThe most straightforward way would be to bring the supply from the panel to the switch, and from the switch to the fans. You take hot from the panel to one lead of the switch, the other lead of the switch to the hot leads of BOTH fans. The neutral leads of both fans to the neutral from the supply, and all the grounds together.
Do the fans have lights?
For more information on ceiling fan wiring:
ceilingfanrepairParticipantAre you sure the problem is with the remote and not the light itself? I dont recognise the model number, if I knew the model name I could give more specific help.
Is it the type of fan with the remote receiver mounted in the canopy, so that you can bypass the receiver to see if the light works without it?
Lastly, when you push the light buttons on the remote, does the remote (LED) or fan respond in any way?
Ceiling fan troubleshooting information is here:
http://www.ceiling-fans-n-more.com/ceiling-fan-general-troubleshooting-and-FAQ.php
Ceiling fan remote issues:
http://www.ceiling-fans-n-more.com/ceiling-fan-remote-controls.php
ceilingfanrepairParticipantLet me get this straight: Right now your room has two switches, both controlling the same outlet in a three way fashion. You wish to replace one of these switches with a dual switch giving you a total of 3 switches. Yes?
First of all, make sure the dual switch you bought has a 3-way option.
Second of all, determine if the ceiling fan is being fed from the same junction box as the switches or outlets. You will somehow need to run leads between the switch box and the fan, but depending on how the room is wired, they may already be there.
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ceilingfanrepairParticipantAre the other wires on the switch purple and brown?
It is not common for there to be more than one wire of the same color going to the same spot on the switch, but usually they are wire nutted together. Sticking two wires in the same slot doesnt work.
Do you still have the old switch? Can you confirm it only has slots for 4 wires?
For more information on ceiling fan parts and pullchains:
ceilingfanrepairParticipantHa! That is one of the more amusing installation stories I have heard. I hate the ugly square recessed fixtures, but this wasnt the best way to deal with it.
Best way to do it would be to remove the fixture, install a fan brace and box in it’s place, depending on how large the fixture was plaster/drywall patch around it. I suppose you could also use a ceiling medallion to cover the hole if it’s not too large.
ceilingfanrepairParticipantYou do have a separate light wire from the fan– that’s the black/white striped wire. The question is, do you have the appropriate number of wires in your house wiring from the fan to the switch? You will need a separate hot lead for the fan and light, plus a neutral (or supply if it’s wired as a switch loop), such as a run of 12/3. I cant tell from your post what wires you have in your ceiling.
OR . . . are you talking about a radio-frequency control where the receiver mounts inside the fan?
For more information on ceiling fan wiring:
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