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Hi, please see this post.
http://discussions.tommmymac.us/wwwboard/messages/236431.html
We are trying to help our users out and Jeld-Wen is doing the same.
Thanks!
David Masher
discussions.tommmymac.usAs a plumber and contractor specializing in bathroom remodels I must note that I start replacing floors, where the tile only butts up to the flange, in about five years. A few don’t last a year. Flooring people are not usually licensed and insured leaving a customer with only a legal remedy available.
Not all thick wax approaches have limited life but it is rare to get 20 years out of this kind of work. Wax seals against odors and is not meant to resist the force of water from flushing.Remember that your apartment is owned by someone else and that unless you have an express statement you cannot make this change. Often the landlord will pay for material or compensate on the rent if a tenant makes an authorized improvement. I’d ask first.
I agree that the sink will have to be removed. Eight foot pre-manufactured countertops are only $50.00. However this 4 to six hour job can turn into a week for the unprepared DIY.e.j. you want a shower that is also a tub? I’m going to presume you do not mean a sunken tub or a tub at all. A five foot sectional shower fits most tub openings. Some have seats. I prefer the Sterling units but Lasco and most all fiberglass tub manufacturers offer models. You are probably going to have to relocate your drain although Swanstone has a unit with an end drain.
You should also be aware that you can cut a two foot section out of the wall of your tub and install a kit that seals the edges.I agree with t.b. that you’re probably too late to save the carpet now but you could call a carpet cleaning company to make sure. To save a carpet you must dry it quickly and within the first 24 to 36 hours. That means several dehumifiers and large fans with the carpet pulled up. The pad gets thrown away.
Insurance companies often pay to have a professional come in. But certainly not always. Policies differ and have different exceptions.Why was this line disconnected? It usually means a leak in the line so we abandon it if the owner does not want to fix it then. I agree with John Boy to get a plumber/gasfitter to air test this line. While most homes use only a few ounces of gas we put a 10 pound air test on the line to make sure it is okay.
2003 Uniform Plumbing Code 1209.5.2.3, “Copper and brass pipe shall not be used if the gas contains more than an average of 0.3 grains of hydrogen sulfied per 100 scf of gas.” Flakes are formed inside the copper and plug the gas valves.
Andrew, you “looked up at the ceiling… and lifted up the carpeting…. and saw the wood was refinished?” Did Elvis used to live there? I’m not sure about the 20’s but we do not bury the pipe in the mud because concrete eats on pipe. We drill through it.
I doubt if your insurance will cover if you attempt this yourself and it goes wrong. But then you may not be the one around that files the claim. HA! (It’s really not funny and people die every year from trying to do gas themselves).It does seem like you have a serious construction law issue. I would not try to fix it. I would use a construction law attorneys free office call. If you were in my jurisdiction I would find this case attractive because somebody’s gonna pay which means I would get paid. There is an implied warranty of hability without the need for an express warranty.
You also might try your local builder’s organization, government inspection department, or your own insurance company.If the existing bathroom and garage are both on the same level of slab then I do not know how to keep from breaking concrete. Perhaps you could relocate the new bathroom to an outside wall and run your house drain out that wall and then connect to your main house drain before it connects to the city.
Most pocket doors are only supported by the top rail. A door jam is added to the exposed stud like a swinging door.
Foam insulation gets a tight covering. However although insulation keeps the pipes from sweating and retains heat, insulation is not the best protection against freezing. Cold wind through foundation openings is the biggest contributor to frozen pipes. If your objective is to prevent freezing you need to caulk and seal your openings.
You need to remove the face plate on the tub overflow and pull out the stopper mechanism. If you’re lucky it will have hair on it and you can drain.
But you need to go through the drain with an augar to get it full open.
Many try to do this themselves but it really takes a professional with the right equipment and knowledge of what’s going on with the cable to get it full open.Yes you should buy a brass chrome plated shower arm. The manufacturer doesn’t matter.
You are probably not able to get the plastic one started because of the straight unthreaded end on the plastic arm. It keeps the shower arm male threads from touching the 90 in the walls female threads. It is the same with plastic male adapters. Sometimes we have to cut the end off with a hacksaw.covering the ground and closing the vents is not the education I am getting from my mold seminars. A crawlspace needs to breath.
From the post on the plumbing site I presumed you are saying the tape doesn’t stay on. From this post I believe you are saying the arm is not screwing in.
Having galvanized pipes should not make a difference. The plastic arms are not as well made as the brass chrome plated ones. Sometimes you have to cut off the extra 1/16″ flat part on the plastic ones because they keep the threads from engaging.
Try to get the arm started without lubricant. If you’re not getting the arm started try a straight nipple to check the angle of the threads.
