HKestenholz

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 1,603 total)
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  • in reply to: coleman furnace noise #307514
    HKestenholz
    Participant

    The entire fan shroud and motor are replaced. The permanently ( for a few years ) lubricated motor bearing wears. The factory matches the motor, fan and shroud for proper air flow, so it is replaced as a unit. Order the part from a local dealer that handles the Evcon replacement line.

    http://www.HeatProUS.com energy businessmen’s knowledge

    Yes, you really have to find out the MAKE and MODEL to get good answers. There IS more than one machine made.

    in reply to: No vex with pex #307489
    HKestenholz
    Participant

    Some settle for half a century with cool water or domestic water below 130F:

    http://www.teppfa.com/pdf/EPD/PEX-EPD-October2010.pdf

    And some for a quarter-century in heating below 180F or less:

    http://www.serparts.com/myths-of-the-pex-tubing

    http://www.HeatProUS.com energy businessmen’s knowledge

    Yes, you really have to find out the MAKE and MODEL to get good answers. There IS more than one machine made.

    in reply to: PEX #307488
    HKestenholz
    Participant

    Pex is only rated to last a century.
    Plumbers don’t like it when anybody can put systems together using fittings that don’t require solder.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cross-linked_polyethylene

    http://www.HeatProUS.com energy businessmen’s knowledge

    Yes, you really have to find out the MAKE and MODEL to get good answers. There IS more than one machine made.

    in reply to: holly gas wall heater #307453
    HKestenholz
    Participant

    Examine the gas pressure supply, the regulator supply to the burner, and check the pilot orifice for obstructions. The flame might be a bit small or have strayed from the thermal sensor due to pressure or dirt.

    http://www.HeatProUS.com energy businessmen’s knowledge

    Yes, you really have to find out the MAKE and MODEL to get good answers. There IS more than one machine made.

    in reply to: Question about Gas Oven Sounds #307446
    HKestenholz
    Participant

    It’s possible it’s a flexing of the oven sheet-metal as it expands while it gets warmer; which can be ‘normal’ though annoying.

    http://www.HeatProUS.com energy businessmen’s knowledge

    Yes, you really have to find out the MAKE and MODEL to get good answers. There IS more than one machine made.

    in reply to: warm morning heater #307445
    HKestenholz
    Participant

    As the gas shuts off, it has some residual gas that does explode. That can be from some excess gas near the burner that was incompletely burned, or a poorly shutting gas valve.

    Check the gas pressure regulation pressure in the burner manifold and check for some small leakage. That can also happen with misalignment of burner parts or one burner orifice clog.

    http://www.HeatProUS.com energy businessmen’s knowledge

    Yes, you really have to find out the MAKE and MODEL to get good answers. There IS more than one machine made.

    in reply to: fireplace insert #307270
    HKestenholz
    Participant

    If it is exactly the same as every fireplace, then it is repaired the same way. If it is different, then you need to find out what is on the walls and put that material in.

    http://www.HeatProUS.com energy businessmen’s knowledge

    Yes, you really have to find out the MAKE and MODEL to get good answers. There IS more than one machine made.

    in reply to: Siegler gas stove replacement parts #307191
    HKestenholz
    Participant

    They are more usually available at local plumbing/heating/HVAC supplies.

    http://www.surplussales.com/thermal/Thermal-1.html

    http://www.HeatProUS.com energy businessmen’s knowledge

    Yes, you really have to find out the MAKE and MODEL to get good answers. There IS more than one machine made.

    in reply to: Geo Thermal – Conversion Where should the ducts be? #307118
    HKestenholz
    Participant

    Which will be warmer, the inside wall or that wall next to the cold outsides?

    Would you want to cover a wall that is cold with warmth, or send warm air to the inside wall and have it rise toward the ceiling while cold air made by the cold wall sinks to the bottom near the floor.

    If you want cold air to be removed from the room, should you remove it from walls that are coldest, so it doesn’t flow across the room at ankle level?

    Which is better, to remove cold air from a room to be reheated or remove warm air to be reheated?

    Which is better, to remove cold air at the place it settles, or to make it move across the room and down the hall to collect it in one place?

    Thinking about these questions can eliminate mythic thinking.

    http://www.HeatProUS.com energy businessmen’s knowledge

    Yes, you really have to find out the MAKE and MODEL to get good answers. There IS more than one machine made.

    in reply to: Electric Floor Heat under carpet #306837
    HKestenholz
    Participant

    As you are planning to have it beneath tile, you are probably planning to put the electric elements in a layer of gypcrete or cement in the manner the manufacturer recommends, so the heat would be spread in the whole area under the tile and the carpet. The carpet acts as slight insulation, about R1, so there would be less expected heat transferred to feel on top.

    It’s a good idea to have a separate thermostat to sense the tile temperature and another one to regulate the heaters under the carpet, as they transfer heat differently.

    As the electric heaters would be embedded, it would have less probability of a problem than if electric baseboard on the walls was submerged.

    http://www.HeatProUS.com energy businessmen’s knowledge

    Yes, you really have to find out the MAKE and MODEL to get good answers. There IS more than one machine made.

    in reply to: 1962 day and night furnace #306651
    HKestenholz
    Participant

    It’s difficult to get an answer when not sure of what info to give. Make sure the gas valve is turned open; you might have forgotten that’s how you turned off the gas. When you turned it on some weeks later, it should have been in the same condition of high heat. Some machines start at high heat, in 1962, most only had one heat output and no complicated electronics. It is more probable there were loose connections and a part failed during that time.

    A fast, surer way to get heat is to either start replacing parts until you hit it, or call a qualified experienced gas furnace repairman.

    http://www.HeatProUS.com energy businessmen’s knowledge

    Yes, you really have to find out the MAKE and MODEL to get good answers. There IS more than one machine made.

    in reply to: Victory Gas Boiler #306606
    HKestenholz
    Participant

    Occasionally, the boiler ignition sequence will need service so the sensor can prover there is a flame. If it can’t the fans will keep running.

    You could try to see if the gas valve is moving by following page 12 here:
    http://www.slantfin.com/documents/268.pdf

    But you would do better to follow the factory instructions and call a qualified repairman.

    http://www.HeatProUS.com energy businessmen’s knowledge

    Yes, you really have to find out the MAKE and MODEL to get good answers. There IS more than one machine made.

    in reply to: Radient floor heating #306531
    HKestenholz
    Participant

    Fresh water carries about 5% air, which would add 1% oxygen to your system to rust the metal parts inside.

    The deoxygenated water in the system is now liquid gold, as it can’t be replaced with anything with less oxygen. Also, it is unusual that there is no anti-freeze in the system, so you might be making a very expensive replacement for very good fluid.

    If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

    http://www.HeatProUS.com energy businessmen’s knowledge

    Yes, you really have to find out the MAKE and MODEL to get good answers. There IS more than one machine made.

    in reply to: Chimney Cap #306413
    HKestenholz
    Participant

    The idea behind not having a cap over both flues is that they technically become joined under the slab cap. That makes it possible to have one powered draft running while the other is off, so the exhaust of one can go down the other.

    That is the reason a powered and a natural draft device aren’t allowed to be in the same flue. By extension, that situation becomes possible.

    The possibility of an AC unit exhausting air elsewhere adds a complication to establishing a dependable known draft.

    A chimney sweep usually knows chimneys and drafts, especially for natural draft fires; not so frequently with power exhausted heating devices.

    You had a bad situation where the two specialties refused to work together – to their detriment, as they have much to learn from each other.

    http://www.HeatProUS.com energy businessmen’s knowledge

    Yes, you really have to find out the MAKE and MODEL to get good answers. There IS more than one machine made.

    in reply to: They came, I heard, so conquer. #306405
    HKestenholz
    Participant

    Given this information that Homebild caught later; but when said first that you had the cap change, would have nailed down the answer that your two contractors didn’t know enough about:

    “There should not be a single vent cap or ‘shroud’ covering these two appliance vents.

    Each must be capped and terminated separately.

    To install a single cap over both vents violates the listing of both appliances and should be removed.”

    http://www.HeatProUS.com energy businessmen’s knowledge

    Yes, you really have to find out the MAKE and MODEL to get good answers. There IS more than one machine made.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 1,603 total)