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The storm has weakend to 105 MPH at last report. Still plenty strong to do a lot of damage, and the size is incredible. Hurricane winds extend 110 miles from the core. This is going to cover a lot of area. Yesterday, Florida requested assistance from states as far away as California to help after the storm passes. Our Office of Emergency Services will be responding.
With the wake-up call from Charley, Florida is well prepared, but debris from previous storms could pose a hazard in the current one. At least we can count on moderator doug for updates if the phone lines hold out. Here in California, hot dry weather has led to perfect storm conditions for fire. Stay tuned. Today, high winds and fires resulted in visibility less than 3-miles with all the smoke and dust in the air. A lovely brown color to the horizon and foothills. So, lets see, given the choice of rain and wind or fire and wind…..Its a sure bet we won’t see rain till October.
Good luck doug, and thanks for keeping us posted. Plenty of tarps out here if you need any, we can send a parcel specially for you. My guess is that a lot of tarps installed after Charley are going to be flying this weekend.
To be honest, I don’t want to be following you down the road with a home-made trailer assembled with wood, screws and glue. I think the logical starting point here is a small, inexpensive steel utility trailer that is modified by adding a padded cradle for the boat. This will give you a welded steel frame, suspension, lights and will meke me feel much safer behind you on the way to the fishin hole. All attachments for the cradle should be bolted through the frame with lock nuts. Keep in mind, you still need to license this contraption to use it on the roads. This could mean an inspection, especially if you don’t start from a fabricated steel trailer.
I have used Marine Tex for boats with some smaller amounts of glazing putty for finish. The Marine Tex is difficult to sand, but is waterproof and holds up well in a repair, but you have to be careful not to over-apply. All fiberglass repairs need gel coat or paint to waterproof the repair.
I have repaired fiberglass boats and even fabricated a fiberglass canoe from scratch. Your repair is fairly easy, because you will have access to both sides of the repair. You will need polyester resin, catalyst, fiberglass cloth, body filler, and a grinder or sander as well as some application tools. Start by using the grinder or sander to sand down the surface around the hole. You need to completely sand the outer surface to get a dusty looking finish. There are often vapor suppresants used when new fiberglass products are originally made. These can leave a residue that must be removed to get a good bond.
A new canoe is made in a mold. The smooth outer side is against the mold, which is sprayed with a gelcoat, then laminated with fiberglass and resin. You need to re-create this mold by applying a sheet of fairly rigid plastic over the outside surface of the hole. Coated with wax (release agent) this is your mold. You can then laminate from the inside by applying fibergalss strips saturated with catalyzed resin. Be sure to roll out all air bubbles and voids. When the repair has set, remove the piece you used as a mold. Sand the surface and apply more resin and glass if there is a large void, or just use body filler to smooth the surface. This can take several coats to get right. Final step is painting to match.
Depending on your experience, it can be a good investment to just have a body shop or fiberglass repair shop do the work for you, but if cosmetics are not a critical issue, no reason not to DIY.
The clock can be adjusted by shortening the location of the pendulum upwards. This makes the swing interval shorter and should solve your problem. Kind of a process of trial and error.
I like to use #6 finish nails or 16 ga pneumatic 1-1/2″ finish nails. For the baseboards #8 is usually needed. These are fine nails and allow you to remove the molding in the event you need to make a change in the future. If you countersink and fill nail holes you will have a neat secure installation. Drilling is only needed if the molding splits easily. The #6 nail should not split most moldings.
This is a big one right now:
MAXIMUM SUSTAINED WINDS ARE NEAR 140 MPH…220 KM/HR…WITH HIGHER GUSTS. SOME FLUCTUATIONS IN INTENSITY ARE EXPECTED DURING THE NEXT 24 HOURS.HURRICANE FORCE WINDS EXTEND OUTWARD UP TO 70 MILES…110 KM…FROM THE CENTER…AND TROPICAL STORM FORCE WINDS EXTEND OUTWARD UP TO 175 MILES…280 KM.
Right now it looks like an East Coast event that misses you to the North. That said, lots of uncertainty between now and Saturday afternoon or evening when it is projected to landfall at ???Daytona Beach???.
I can think of a great management option for a large project. If you consult with a certified interior designer you will get both a professional plan and guideance in selecting and working with contractors. I have been surprised at the very reasonable fees that professional designers charge. Keep in mind, this is not an interior decorator, but a qualified design professional. They do not have the credentials of an architect, but it is the perfect person to assist on difficult renovation and remodeling projects with relatively few structural issues.
You get a professional design, assistance and discounts on contractor services and materials, and you can have project management. Its a great buy. Interview a couple of designers and believe me, you will save much more than their fees.
Dodgeman, my personal experience is similar to yours. I shot one with the 12 ga that was going after chicken eggs. Nailed him straight on too, but whew, what a stench. I carried the body off on the end of a pitchfork and was banned from all family social events pending a complete scrubbing. The expression “wouldn’t touch it with a 10-foot pole” holds true. Just being within 10 feet of a fresh kill can deliver the smell. Ruined some perfectly good hay too. Remembering the expression on the horses faces after the loud shot and the release of noxious gasses still makes me laugh.
What I want to know is how would you relocate these critters or even approach them after live trapping?
The *** **** board receives many inquiries about this and it is included in the FAQ here http://discussions.tommmymac.us/Global/FAQ/FAQ_BulletinBoard.html
The link you want is http://www.pbpipe.com
We are going to have to have you look at the door and the hardware, and provide some observations. Usually when this happens, a counter-balance cable is either broken, or has fallen off the drum-spool, or the springs may have broken.
Take a look at the counter balance rig and note whether the cable on the side of the door has unraveled from the spool on the bar above the door or broken, and if the springs are in one piece over the door. There are several possible configurations of springs and counterbalances and it would help to get a good description of yours.
Finally, before we get into repair methods, because these parts are not easy to replace or repair, let us know if you feel up to dealing with this fairly challenging task. If not you may need to call a garage door company.
Nice to see you pop in here once in a while. There has been a lot of news of scam artists and price gouging in your area, as well as good news of volunteer and neighbors pitching in to get things done. I would have thought you should have power and phones restored by now. Florida without air conditioning in August does not sound appealing.
A long thin and uninvited worm in a water flooded basement more than toe deep. What could possibly happen next! The only thing I found on the internet was Horsehair worms that are parasitic only to insects. Absent a better description, thats my current guess.
Hey, whats with the judge. things must be getting serious to convince a judge to trudge around the basement! How do you get a judge to go wading in a basement anyway? Sounds like a convincing uninhabitalble dwelling case to me. This does not sound like something that a dehumidifier alone will solve. LOL, Good Luck AJ truckers wife a.k.a. minifoxx. Post back with a better description of your worm, but there are thousands of species out here. Who knows, maybe we will find a Helminthologist to answer your question. (search helminthology)
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2112.html
http://creatures.ifas.ufl.edu/misc/horsehair_worms.htmFirst, I am going to say I have no experience in removing this stain, but the composition of an alkaline dry cell battery offers some clues. The battery consists of metal oxides (zinc and manganese) and potassium hydroxide. It is alkaline, not acid. The stains are basically what you describe, rust stains, but probably not iron oxide. Normally, metal oxide stains are removed by acid reduction using oxalic, muriatic, phosphoric, sulphonic or other acid materials. The problem here is that your pool plaster has a high marble dust content that can be severely damaged by acids, not to mention, you really can’t do this underwater. Oxalic acid or acetic acid (vinegar) are the only materials that might work and not harm the plaster, but your should obviously test this first.
Try to scrub the stain using a stiff brush or even a metal brush. Also, talk with the company that did the replastering to get their blessing for any cleaners you use and, if all else fails, estimates for repair / recovering the affected area.
The toilet flange should be replaced at this point. Its an easy repair, and you can simply unbolt the old one and apply a new metal ring or complete flange horn. It will make installing the new floor easier, and you will still need the wax ring.
Search toilet flange replacment if you want to learn more about flange parts. They are available at all plumbing supply stores and most home improvement centers. They are usually connected to the floor around the closet bend with wood screws. Pictures of some alternatives at this link:
http://www.quickfixplumbingproducts.com/closet%20flange%20extenders.htm
