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I am still a bit puzzled by the original question. It is clearly possible to lay any floor on a wood floor, and many subfloors are of wood construction, so application over a wood floor that is level and free of buckling is not much different. But why? This inevitably creates more problems than it solves. My personal approach to this has always been to remove the old floor, and sometimes to replace the underlayment. The objective for me is to match as closely as possible original floor height and if possible improve on floor stability.
While installation over finish wood floors may be possible, I don’t really want to advocate that as a recommended approach.
Tile can be placed on any floor surface that meets deflection requirements and to which the adhesive bond will not fail. You should test the adhesive for bond strength on the floor and determine if you need to add an additional layer of underlayment over the existing floor. Reasons that adhesive (including thin-set mortar) may fail include wax, poor surface finish condition, and very slick surfaces.
If the adhesive will function and the floor is reasonably level, installation can proceed. If there is any concern that the bond could fail, use a thin 1/4″ underlayment of Fir plywood or Luuan, glued and nailed to the floor, then proceed normally. Remember to account for floor level transitions at entries and stairways, and you may have to remove baseboards, and cut door moldings and casings to fit the new height.
You can install wood floors over existing wood floors, but it will add some thickness which may be an issue for transitions from other floor surfaces,as well as clearance at doors, jambs, cabinets, etc. For nail-down applications, use rosin paper between the floors and attach with fasteners recommended by the flooring company. Orient the new floor perpendicular to the old one if possible. For glue-down, you may have to sand the old floor to get good adhesion, or use a Luan subfloor nailed to the old floor.
If the roof pitch is not a problem, it can be a DIY repair. Rain caps are sold at most hardware stores. A roofing contractor is best equipped to handle steep pitches and can check the condition of flashing while he makes any repairs. Probably either trade could do that repair. If you are planning to service the furnace anyway,ask the HVAC company if they can make the stack repair. If you want to check any other issues on the roof like flashing, gutters, vents etc, then call a roofing specialist.
Better stated that it is the current imbalance which is what causes the GFCI to trip.
This should have been set up as either two individual circuits, or if the load was within tolerance for the wiring, a single 110 circuit. Lighting could have still been on one branch, while the GFCI would be on the second branch. I’m curious whether the OP used a 220 circuit breaker or two 110 breakers and a shared neutral.
If I have this right, you actually have a ground fault circuit interrupter, but have a shared common with another light circuit. Ground faults occur when current is leaking somewhere, in other words, electricity is escaping to the ground. By using a common that is shared with an unprotected circuit, the GFCI detects a fault and properly trips. You need to provide a dedicated ground and common on that circuit. Sharing neutrals is a dangerous shortcut on any circuit, and it will always cause a ground fault on a monitored circuit.
check for damaged or corroded wiring that may be causing a short. Perhaps in an unused jack. The problem is on your side of the interface, so without WirePro, you will pay a fee to have the phone company fix it.
Acetone is a solvent for cyanoarylate adhesives, but may harm plastic lenses and coatings. If you have plastic lenses, you may need to see your optometrist for a replacement lens.
Sounds like you have low water volume and soft water. For the water volume, it could be that you are using too small diameter pipes to supply water, or there is a constriction or water-saving device.
For soft water, you may want to bypass a water softener if it is in your system.
Since there are multiple potential causes, its hard to make suggestions without further details. Is the plumbing accessible? What size pipes? Is the faucet/control accessible and able to be replaced? What water pressure do you have in the house? Are you on municipal water supply or a well? Is there a softener in the system?
The lava rock is permeable and will let water through as though the grade was never changed. But you could place an impermeable layer on top of the stones angled the right direction to cause water to run off. Leaving them in place probably doesn’t hurt anything either as long as you understand a grade change is only effective to the extent it causes water to sheet away from the structure, and water problems are not from a sub-surface source such as a high water table.
You may find a piece of donor carpet in a closet. if not then it will be very hard to match. The carpet and patch need to be cut out to the same size and shape, then put in place with carpet tape. There are a number of tricks of the trade to make that repair invisible, so a pro can be worthwhile, and carpet installers/repair are not overly expensive.
Sounds like a big project that should be very nice. I agree with the upgrade to T-111, and it will have a much more finished appearance than sheathing.
For your climate, ask the builder about installing a radiant barrier in the roof, and be sure to incorporate adequate ventilation. This will avoid a good bit of solar heat gain in the roof which will radiate to the patio. We’re not talking about insulation, but a membrane with a reflective surface that reflects long-wave radiation back up. It can be applied under the roof deck, or in the roof space above the ceiling. Consult with your builder. Its an inexpensive way to make your shaded patio cooler…well nothing we can do about the air temperatures, but at least don’t add radiant heat from the ceiling.
Good luck!
Please follow this link for the manual in PDF Acrobat format
http://www.hunterfan.com/uploadedfiles/Support/Owner_Manuals/44200ab.pdf
T-111 is a finish siding that usually has a Fir finished face and comes in different grades and patterns. It looks a lot better in a finish application than sheathing plywood, but can serve the same function. T-111 is typically used in non-structural applications in a 5/16″ thickness, but may be 5/8″ when used for shear walls.
T-111 is often used on the eaves of buildings with the finished face down, where the rafters are not enclosed on overhangs. It is rare to see the entire roof sheathed in T-111 because its more expensive. T-111 can also be used as finished ceilings on porches, enclosed patios or soffits. Skylights are an optional item, you may want to introduce more natural light. Also consider using reinforced light-boxes that can eventually accommodate ceiling fans if desired in place of ceiling light fixtures.
What is the over-all style and architecture of the building? There are lots of possible treatments for the ceiling, posts, rails, etc.
The zinc strips are intended to be installed below the ridge cap shingles, exposed to any water flow. Cost is less than $1 per linear foot, and should protect up to five years. Trace amounts of zinc are oxidized from the strip and run down the roof and are toxic to algae. Generally focus on north facing slopes and any roof areas where trees may overhang.
Don’t use copper as you will have green staining. Install using a nail with a neoprene rubber washer. These are often used in metal roofing, and will seal out any water from the penetration. Roofing cement could be used on the back-side, as you roll out the strip, but that is pretty messy. If you use it, I would confine it to just a dab at the attachment points.
