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I decided to check out Renovate with Tommy Mac, and to be honest am disappointed to see this antiquated BBS style forum format has been continued.
Any hope of upgrading to a more modern dynamic forum format?
My advise is to install some nice new laminate! I have attempted to restore old pine flooring, and in most cases have found its not worth the effort.
If you want to proceed, check for lead content. If lead free, then rent a drum sander, and buy plenty of replacement 80-grit paper. Use the coarse to remove the paint and most wear damage, then use finer grades to finish. Pine floors are soft and will not hold up to dogs, heavy traffic, appliance moving, etc. Finish with Polyurethane, and enjoy for a year or two… or just get some wood or laminate floors and save yourself the effort.
Good luck with your search. New laser torpedo levels are commonly available for under $40 to $60. Finding parts for a product made by a company no longer in business is unlikely, although you may find someone willing to sell their used level.
I wish you the best of luck, but if you need to get back to work, just buy a new one. Tools for a lifetime are unfortunately rare any more.
I am eminently qualified to answer this question as I am currently demolishing 600 square feet of saltillo which will result in an estimated 6 cubic yards of debris. I lived with saltillo for years and have restored and refinished it, and now, I no longer want anything to do with it. In my case, it is laid on a 2-inch mortar bed with thinset adhesive. Someone, didn’t want this stuff to go anywhere 😉
First, it sounds like your saltillo is pretty badly weather-damaged if it is spalling. If the tile is extremely damaged, your only recourse is replacement. The interior is very soft and permeable.
Saltillo tile must be sealed. If you can live with the appearance problems caused by existing flaking, you may seal the tiles using a waterproof penetrating sealer. I had great results using Roval Saltillo Sealer 1088. It won’t repair the damage, but leaves a great looking finish and prevents further water penetration and damage.
For preparation, you may as well use a pressure washer. That will remove algae and dirt from the tiles and mortar. Allow the tiles to fully dry before attempting to seal.
I used a finish nail gun and 1.5 inch or 2-inch nails. Fast and strong. You’ll appreciate a nail gun since you can hold the board and fasten and countersink at the same time. You will need to field nail the first board, but if you nail through the tongue and angle in towards the board so the next groove will fit, you can conceal most nails.
Your description is inadequate to say whether “side, top or end” is the best location. If this is simply recirculating air in your garage, it really doesn’t matter since the same volume of air will pass the filter for any size fan. Another question is why? What’s the point? Is this for local dust collection of tools, or just ambient garage air?
Joists are sometimes spliced or sistered in the manner you describe. Codes vary. If the sistered board extends far enough, and has a frequent nailing or bolt schedule or is bonded and nailed, or uses a rated mending plate, it may be just as strong as an uncut piece.
You should ask your local building department to confirm the code or consult with a structural engineer in your area and ask whether local code prohibits this, and what to look for in terms of lumber rating and nailing schedule. For a rule of thumb, a proper sister joist must be a minimum of 1/3 of the span of the joist plus the length of the damage that is being repaired. The sister joist should have a triple row on nails every 12 inches on center to properly transfer the floor loads from the damaged joist to the sister joist. Bolts are better, and using construction adhesive with bolts or nails is very strong.
The condensation is on the outside, inside or between the wall? What temperatures is this occurring at? Is the observed moisture, melting frost?
Your table is light compared to things like a pool table, piano, granite counters, aquariums etc which are commonly used in living space. We could check load span tables, but I don’t think its needed in this case.
Happy new year.
I just turned off adblock plus and now I see what you mean! Here is the solution to your woes:
Install it and give me a thumbs up. 🙂
Chlorine bleach turns wood black, but oxalic acid (often called wood bleach) can lighten a stain. Give that a try. Available at hardware and apron stores, or try this.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19462&source=googlelps&cookietest=1You could just live with seasonally high water table, if it doesn not do any damage, or you would need to install a curtain drain around the perimeter of the foundation, and drain water away with a sump or gravity drain. I dealt with a similar problem and just ignored it without any problem other than the efflorescence it left on the foundation and soil. If ventilation is adequate, the crawl space humidity is the same as the outdoor air. If its a problem, it can be drained, but it can be a challenge to install an interior or (preferably) exterior curtain drain.
I’ll assume that the garage ceiling is mounted to the floor joists of the bedroom and that you have access. Teh best way is to remove the ceiling and apply insulating batts to the floor above, is not too practical. The easiest way to do this is to blow-in insulation. Either cellulose or fiberglass is fine. Be sure to fill the end-walls where the joists meet the walls. That ceiling is a fire-rated drywall, and its important that you restore the integrity of that fire-barrier when you are done. You should be able to patch in fire-rated drywall plugs where you cut ports to blow in insulation.
In Northern CA, insulation is important not only for cold protection but to keep heat from rising to the living space in summer. Blown in insulation will work fine for that purpose as well.
Its a common sense thing really. Flashing exists to ensure water or condensation that enters above an opening is conducted back to the outside. When the outlet is blocked, it flows back to the inside. Sometimes you see water inside, or sometimes it can cause a situation that leads to damp or rotted siding or structural members in that area. It is not a correct practice.
This is a forum. We don’t email replies.
Cyanoacrylate based glues do not come out of cloth with any solvent. These adhesives actually can react with cotton and other fabrics, and produce heat,so you do need to be careful when handling this material. Acetone and methylene chloride are solvents, but may leach the dye from the jeans. Acetone would be your best bet.
