Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
I have a similar fountain. I received a split rubber stopper with a hole in the center for the cord. The stopper is coated with a thick wax-like material that is spread over the hole and seals the openings. You should be able to get the sealant and rubber stopper at a fountain supply. If not, it would not be hard to make your own. If you must make your own, clear Silicon caulk would be the best permanent seal. This would be far superior to using foam. Aquarium supply stores also stock stoppers and non-toxic sealants.
T-111 comes in 4 and 8 inch O.C. repeat patterns. It is a very common plywood siding and most lumber yards can either supply it in stock, or by order. Northeast Ohio covers a lot of ground, and could be Cleveland, Ashtabula, Youngstown, Akron and places in between, so a lot of territory. There is someplace within 20 miles of where you live that sells this.
I used to buy this product at 84 Lumber which is located throughout your area. (there used to be more, like Carters, Furrows,Busy Beaver) Call around and ask. Any lumberyard will know what you are asking for; but you need to know what to ask for: T-111 is commonly available in 5/8 (structural) and 3/8 non-structural) thickness. Repeat of the groove pattern is 4 or 8 inches, and grade is stain or select. You need to know before you go buy.
There are excellent articles at http://www.bugspray.com that address bumble bees and the similar looking carpenter bee. The articles should have enough information to help you identify your problem and they provide access to the best pesticides available to pros or consumers. I have been very satisfied with purchases (and great information) from BugSpray.
http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/bumblebees.htmlThe blue stuff is a latex sizing. As long as adhesive is washed off, the sizing can be left and painted over with an acrylic (latex) primer or finish coat. The sizing is a strippable surface that protects the wall.
The wall paper may be vinyl and the outer layer needs to be stripped by pulling it off leaving the paper and adhesive to be stripped chemically or by steam. Add a small amount of dish-soap (1/2 tsp) to your vinegar (1 cup/gallon) or DIF solution to improve penetration. A hot solution works faster than cold. Have you tried steam? Wagner sells a power steamer for less than $50. I have used it with good success on vinyl and paper wallcoverings.
I agree. It is blocked by Spybot S&D. I don’t know why the cookie is served, and according to spybot, Avenue A may no longer serve a reporting purpose. But, the cookie is blocked and I just go on. I’ll have to ask about this and see what purpose is serves. Its a nuisance to deal with the OK when spybot blocks this. My AdAware and Spysubtract don’t object to Avenue A. This is not related to registration and ocurred before voluntary registration started. Also as far as privacy, moderators and the board administrators cannot access personal identifying information about posters, but the IP address that a post was sent from is visible. This simply allows the ISP service being used to be identified through whois, but is not traceable to an individual.
1.) Should I replace the insulation in the wall spaces? Some if the insulation is discolored (black)in a few places. I’m not sure what caused that but suspect moisture. The insulation is dry.
Discolored insulation is probably from air leaks. Insulation should still perform. Add a vapor barrier before applying drywall.
Also, I have a 6 inch gap between the underside insulation and the floor. (The height of the floor joists). Should I insulate this space? IF so, to what depth? Should I completely fill the space?
Insulation may be beneficial, but be sure it is adequately supported.
3.) I plan on paneling or putting up drywall. Should I place a sheet of plastic between the interior wall and the insulation to serve as a vapor barrier?
Yes
4.)Through the course of removing the floor and paneling, the vapor barrier coating on the floor insulation has been punctured in quite a few places. I am concerned I may have compromised the vapor barrier. Should I repair the punctures? I was thinking duct tape might do the trick. The largest is 3×5 inches. (Major OOPS on that one).
The easiest solution is to use spray adhesive like 3M Super 77 and patch with plastic.
5.) Short of replacing the entire walls, how can I remove the smell? I’ve saturated the areas with bleach 3 times. The odor diminishes with each application but I worry I may be damaging the wood. Any ideas?
Kilz original primer or Zinsser BIN. Both are stain and odor blocking. I have used them successfully in this application.
6.) In the course of drilling the floor out between the bottom of the walls and the floor joists, I’ve punctured the outside metal siding in a few places. What should I use to patch the holes?
Not my expertise. 2-part body filler (bondo) comes to mind, or fiberglass mesh with resin can be molded over the gap. Final smoothing and filling with glazing compound.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Tile will adhere to laminate with square edged, that has been sanded to promote adhesion. A setting adhesive like thinset is best.
If everyone had your expertise, you would be unemployed. Its easy enough to reply to these requests, and it does not bother me a bit. Better to ask, than to make a mistake. This is a perfectly reasonable question to ask on this forum, and most of us who reply are satisfied if the information our experience allows us to give, is useful and apprecieated. There isn’t much more to get out of it.
I use 3 different anti-spyware programs. Spysubtaact Pro, AdAware 6 and Spybot. I have never had spyware loaded on this site and have been comming here for years. The site does load a cookie and appears to target advertizing based on the subject matter of the post you are viewing. The adserver and cookies can be easily blocked, and do not affect the use of the site.
If you don’t believe me, I suggest you load a good anti-spyware program and test for spyware before and after posting on this site. I have NEVER had tracking software added to my computer from here.
I agree with you, but there are so many variables we can’t see from here. Joist replacement would be done from below by demolishing the ceiling. It may be possible to sister new joists along side existing, and tying into the top-sill (if not ballon frame) where the joists have rotted. The rotted components and affected floor section would have to be removed.
What kind of span are the joists?
Is your ceiling drywall or plaster?
Is the house conventional framed or balloon?
What would your contractor use to support the column and beam?
If the joists have failed allowing the floor to sag, how does supporting them on a beam and column provide a long-term solution?
Does his proposal include replacing the rotted section?Sorry, more questions than answers, you probably need a second opinion (bid).
The fireplace produces radiant (short wave) and convective (long wave) heat. By far, the more useful is the convective heat that passes through the shell and is circulated to the room. The glass doors do prevent some radiant heat from entering the room. Radiant heat feels warm but does little to actually increase the air temperature. Operating the fireplace with the doors and screen open may increase radiant output, but its unsafe, and allows lots of heated air to be drawn up the flue. This can result in a net loss of heat in your home as makeup air infiltrates from outside.
The majority of useful heat in a zero clearance fireplace comes from air circulating between the shells, and returned to the room.
I don’t recommend installing a stainless panel over the refractory brick (I think thats what you mean), because, it will become non-reflective after a short period of use, and its a modification not intended by the manufacturer. Again, mainly a radiant heat enhancement.
You are installing a 20 year old fireplace. I can understand this seems economical, but if you are really looking for heat recovery and efficiency, the built in wood stoves are far warmer, cleaner and safer.
The built in fireplace has a double shell design. The inner shell is usually refractory lined. The space between the inner and outer shell is used as a sort of heat exchangeer. It recovers heat and sends it back to your room, and keeps the outer shell cool, allowing zero, or near zero clearance. As a result, these units are much more efficient at recovering useable heat for the living space, as compared to a conventional fireplace.
The thermal efficiency is not as high as a wood stove insert, but each has its place. The Zero fireplace, usually has doors that close and prevent lots of interior air from be convected up the flue, but it is not air-tight like a wood stove. Combustion air is not as controlled as wood stove. It is more controlled than an open hearth fireplace.
As dodegeman said, the refractory bricks are replaceable, and 20 to 30 year life is not uncommon in these units. They are much easier for repair or replacement than masonry.
Hope this helps. Post back if you have more questions.
Could you explain what is going on a little. You cannot modify the existing floor without substantial demolition and reconstruction. I don’t think there is a cheap, fast fix to what you want to do, but it would help if we had a clue what the problem is.
It would help to have a model number to diagnose this. Many whirlpool dryers have the drum suspended on a spindle that is in the back. The bearings on that spindle can fail causing the drum to squeal and eventually seize. Since you have already taken it apart once, you can confirm this. Post back the model number.
DanO our resident appliance expert may check in and will have suggestions, IF you can reply with the model #
