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You replied to a question that was asked five years ago that did not get a good reply. There is a good chance if you post a new message (Not a Reply), you will get the answer you seek. See the link at the top of this page that says – Latest 50 threads – This will take you to the current board where you can post your question. By replying here, very few will see your question.
There are lots of old threads on the board that are dead-ends. Try a new question on the current board.
Texture compounds will adhere to luan panels provided you prime and paint when done. A spray texture will have the most random appearance, and you can retain a drywall pro very reasonably to apply it. You might like it better than if you try to apply it yourself. Call for an estimate, you will be surprised at the low price, and will get a nicer finish than trying to texture yourself. To save even more, tell the drywaller, you will do all the masking and painting after the texture is applied.
This is one of the easiest and most durable surfaces to paint. If there is chipping or flaking of the old paint, prepare by using a pressure sprayer. This will avoid creating airborne dusts and will clean the surface nicely. Today’s 100% acrylic (latex) paints are ideal for this surface.
I recommend that you apply paint using a high quality airless sprayer that you can rent reasonably. Brushing is fine, but will take longer. Talk to a local paint store such as Sherwin Williams, Kelley Moore or Benjamin Moore. They will have be best quality paints and can help you with suggestions whether priming is recommended. Most likely, this siding will not require priming if fading is the only problem. Be sure to ask for a preferred customer discount. Most of the pro paint stores have several retail price schedules, and if you ask for a preferred customer price, they will gladly give it to you to earn your patronage.
Post back if you have any other questions, and good luck.
With joists on 24-inch centers your floors are over-spanned at 12-feet and the deflections are to be expected. The ideal solution is to sister 2×8 joists alongside the existing joists from sill-plate to sill-plate. Nailing is done in a staggered pattern every 6-inches to bond the joists. You basically end up with 4×8 joists.
Blocking is the addition of 2×8 blocks perpendicular to the joists, between them. In your case blocking could be added every 6-feet, or right down the center of the span. The blocks are cut about 22-1/2 inches long (measure the open space between the joists). The blocks should fit tightly between the joists. They are then toe-nailed or attached using joist hangers. Blocking keeps the joists from twisting under loads and greatly increases the rigidity of the floor. Picture this, if you hold a metal tape measure and push on the edge, the tape cannot be pushed into a curve. Instead, the tape bends to the side (twists). The same thing happens with your floor joists. By installing blocking, the joists are held in alignment and will not twist.
As long as you only have 2×8 on 24-inch centers, you will always have bounce in the floors. Blocking will reduce that deflection. Increasing the lumber to 4×8 by sistering joists along-side the existing ones makes the system twice as strong. Blocking in addition to sistering should eliminate the problem, with or without a plywood subfloor.
A subfloor could be added, but will require removal of all finish floors. Subfloor is usually glued and nailed on the joists. It ties the joists together and helps the floor operate as a unit. I suspect you must have a subfloor, even if it is 1×6 planks, but current costs for 26/32 OSB tounge and groove flooring is $26.50/sheet (32 square feet). As mentioned previously, I expect OSB and plywood to increase in price shortly due to demand for building materials caused by Hurricane Charley.
A general contractor could very quickly tell if the wall is load bearing. Generally, if the wall runs parallel with ceiling joists or trusses, it is not load bearing. A wall that runs perpendicular to the ceiling joists may be load bearing. It is fairly easy to tell from above the wall if you have access. Permit requirements vary, but since you are not adding living space, this is a remodel. Generally permits are not required.
A registered designer or architect could also determine the construction of the house, identify load-bearing members, and develop a plan. This could give you what you need to proceed DIY or to bid the job to contractors. Remember that there will be a lot of work involved in the floors, walls and ceiling to bring these two rooms together seamlessly.
There are a number of cures for bouncing floors depending on your access to joists. Blocking can help distribute loads and prevent twisting of joists. This is a very effective way of getting the bounce out. If the joists are under-sized, lumber can be sistered to the sides of existing joists. This combined with blocking is the most effective approach. Problems are working around electric, plumbing and HVAC ducts. If you can post more details, concerning the floor construction, access, joist size and span we can be more help.
Adding to what was said above; I have had to deal with this requirement everytime I built an addition, or new home for that matter.
It seems you are in the process of bidding an addition, but that you don’t have approvable plans at this stage. All code requirements will have to be met as you submit plans to the building permit department, and this could cause you to have changes in the bids you are taking now.
Your carpenter was good enough to advise you of this change, but it would be prudent to submit your plans to a general contractor, designer, architect or engineer so you have a good set of plans for bidding and a permit package ready to go. Remember that there will be specific requirements for foundations, framing, roofing, electrical, plumbing, insulation, HVAC and possibly energy loss calculations.
Getting a set of plans, or at least a plan review, now, may save you time and money at the time you get ready to build. The sub contractors are only obliged to bid your proposal. Changes to comply with code will cause change orders that will not come cheap, and could undermine your budget.
Common asbestos siding was frequently applied between the 1950s to the early 1970s. It is approximately 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick and may be embrossed with a pattern. It is extremely hard and durable. The only way to definitely determine if a fiber-cement shingle is asbestos -containing is to take a small piece for analysis to a local analytical lab (see Yellow Pages).
Polarized light microscopy (PLM) analysis costs from $15 to $35 depending on how fast you want results.
There is a simple answer to all your questions: Professional paint store.
Whether its Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams, Kelley Moore or whatever, as long as their one and only business is paint, they want and NEED you to succeed and to return. So that is where you go for both supplies and paint. Not only are they going to answer your questions and provide the best products, you need only ask for a preferred customer discount, and 20% off is yours. So the best materials, advice and price.
The minor chipped spots require a small container of drywall compound or spackling and a piece of sanding screen, the painting supplies should be pretty straight forward, edging tools like a brush or pad, and a roller to do the big areas; drop cloths and good quality paint. The store will even help you estimate coverage. Give it a try, and good luck.
If water is penetrating the shower pan to the floor and ceiling below, the repair cannot be cosmetic. Grout is not intended to be waterproof. It is a cement product that bonds the tiles and can be sealed to resist most water to the back-side, but waterproof is not likely. In a 1985 home, the shower pan was most likely hot-mopped. This is a liner covered with a tar material, then a mortar bed applied and tile installed on top. If the liner has failed the solution is not the grout above, it is replacement of the liner; and that is the job you are avoiding. The use of caulk around the floor where it meets the wall may help. Caulk is a flexible sealant, and if the problem is really caused by leaks at the wall / floor seam, a silicone caulk may help. Grout should be sealed after repair with a penetrating sealer to make it as water resistant as possible.
If the problem continues, it would be good to have a look at the situation from below. That means making enough of a hole in the ceiling below, or from the wet-wall to see the source of the leak and what damage exists as a result. Drywall is easy to repair, but continued leaking can lead to problems that are not. Did you have a home inspection prior to purchase? Its surprising this problem went undetected. Perhaps the previous owners did not use the shower after the leak started.
The grout is cracking because the surface it is laid on has excessive deflection (its flexible). Can you describe more about the construction of the shower? Was a pre-fab shower pan used, and what material? Any chance the tile has a cement board backer? The problem that causes the grout to crack lies under the tile, and unfortunately, chances are the cure lies there as well.
What is the asbestos material you are talking about, and how did you determine it contains asbestos? What were the test results. Is this mastic? Is it friable? Are you willing or able to DIY?
Its impossible suggest a cost or approach to this without some details.
You don’t see it often because it is more expensive, requires some expertise to use different techniques, and its not sold at most DIY outlets. Stranded wire is more commonly used in larger amperage circuits and certainly supplies the power to your house. Don’t argue with the electrician, but ask questions so you know how to bond stranded wire in case you want to extend or modify a circuit in the future.
Good luck with the renovation. You are getting a top-shelf electrical job.
You need 2.5 cubic yards of washed drain rock. The supplier can do the weight conversion. The yardage is the most important number, because you are filling a given volume and weight per yard can vary. A calculator on the internet at this site says it is 3.5 tons at 2835 yards per ton. Give it a try inputting 1 foot width, 80 foot length and 10 inches thick (0.833 feet).
While contractors are highly regulated in California, the DIY owner / builder simply needs to comply with code requirements. There is almost nothing you cannot DIY, provided it is properly planned, designed and permitted. Its really no different than anyplace else, if you are willing to invest in proper design and engineering. Seismic considerations are usually detailed in drawings, and is more about attachments, bracing and nailing schedules than anything technical. Following a plan is easier than guessing anyway; but you usually have to pay for professional assistance prior to obtaining permits.
