Handyman

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Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 421 total)
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  • in reply to: Framing non-load bearing wall #305862
    Handyman
    Participant

    seen a wall that ends in the center of a room to divide the room. say between a kitchen and dining room? Sure. As long as it is well secured to top and bottom, You may want to secure it to studs on top of the pocket door frame to prevent movement. But it should be fine.

    Greg
    Webmaster
    http://www.discussions.tommmymac.us

    in reply to: oh, great ! now the webmaster doesn’t,,, #305816
    Handyman
    Participant

    and in your expertise. But is DIYer going to think. “Elephant Snot, I gotta get me some of that!!”

    I also hear that Seawater from the Gulf of Mexico off the coast of Alabama, Louisiana or Mississippi can now also remove varnish.

    Greg
    Webmaster
    Winter Park Homes For Sale

    in reply to: ‘ elephant snot ‘,,, #305814
    Handyman
    Participant
    in reply to: Remove a lacquer/varnish from soft brick #305810
    Handyman
    Participant

    Here is the answer that has been posted before:
    Removing paint or varnish from brick is always a challenge. And no matter how hard you try, there will always be a residual of “paint points” in the brick. The method I have used and like the best is to use a 7″ hand power grinder, using a 40 grit carborundum disk. This really rips the old paint off but doesn’t seem to damage the surface of the brick. Hearing, eye and ear protection are a must……and having arms like Arnold Schwarzennegger is a big plus, as the arms do get a bit tired after a while. But its fast!! An acid wash following the grind off process will help get most of the paint off. Try 1491 Acid which is more user friendly than Muratic and safer. Still a chemical hazard namely if it gets under a finger nail so always where chemical resistant gloves and eye protection. Hope this helps.

    Greg
    Webmaster
    http://www.discussions.tommmymac.us

    in reply to: table #305809
    Handyman
    Participant

    Use a deglosser or sand it a bit to get something for the paint to get a tooth in and then paint it.

    There are kits you can buy to paint formica. I am guessing they would work on this surface.

    Greg
    Webmaster
    http://www.discussions.tommmymac.us

    in reply to: i guess a leak #305808
    Handyman
    Participant

    A leak. could be tile and grout failure.

    You definitely have some type of failure or you would not be able to take off the tiles. But it may not be a leak (well it is now since you have removed the tiles but that can be repaired.

    If your shower has been leaking for 13 years you should have some mold or damage in that wall and I would get it checked out.

    Greg
    Webmaster

    in reply to: Insulation #305803
    Handyman
    Participant

    Or become a fire hazard.
    I would remove

    Greg
    Webmaster
    http://www.discussions.tommmymac.us

    in reply to: T’Chisel’s new PBS show “Rough Cut” #305762
    Handyman
    Participant

    We love you Man

    in reply to: Why not crimp the pipe? #305761
    Handyman
    Participant

    How about we fill the pipe with lawyers? They are like sharks so they can swim down there on their own.

    They can be greasy and slimy so they will fit right into the pipe.

    Tell them they are doing a good job. and their ego’s will expand sooo much it will clog the pipe permanently.

    in reply to: Plugging a hole in a high pressure line #305760
    Handyman
    Participant

    If its a steel pipe.

    Why not crimp it until you drill into it later.

    It may not stop the flow but wouldn’t it at least slow it down.

    in reply to: Plugging a hole in a high pressure line #305756
    Handyman
    Participant

    Wait I think i heard that was one of your scientist’s ideas.

    How about plugging it 1,000,000,000 pounds sterling. That ought to do it.

    in reply to: I’d never buy one either #305748
    Handyman
    Participant

    Just like driving a car.
    Mowing the lawn.

    I would be willing to bet most accidents are caused by being in a rush, not paying full attention, not using all the safeties etc. It is more than likely the operator who is at fault.

    That said I still like the idea of the adding the safety.

    in reply to: MOBILE HOME EXTERIOR #305603
    Handyman
    Participant

    you can probably use stucco.

    in reply to: April 1991 Hampton Bay Fan Manual light pull #305602
    Handyman
    Participant

    where you bought the fan.
    i do not believe you will need the exact part number as they sell a standard pull switch.

    the pull switches wear out all the time.

    Make sure to turn off the power at the breaker.

    in reply to: I see your point… #305598
    Handyman
    Participant

    My father ran much his middle index and thumb through a saw when he was hurrying through a project in my grandfathers work shop.

    After cleaning blood off the ceiling of the workshop and off the ceiling of the kitchen from when my grandfather looked at the wound and the blood expelled from my fathers hand like a fountain at the Bellagio. I have an extremely healthy respect for these machines. I have not replaced mine since this device came out but if I were to, I would get one with this device. I just read on the saw stop site: “If you activate the safety system brake, you will need to replace or repair the blade and replace the brake cartridge. Replacing the brake cartridge is simple and takes less than five minutes. A standard brake cartridge costs $69 and a dado brake cartridge $89. SawStop saws are designed to absorb the force of activation and are not damaged by it.”

    And if you are cutting wet wood, disposing of a body or other conductive material you just put it in bypass mode.

Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 421 total)