[k smith]

have they started any drilling for gas or oil in your area lately? i know of some people who have been affected by the rigs either sucking there wells dry for the fracking process or contaminating their wells during injection.

[k smith]

the c-wall product i referred to previously is the same product at this site. probably not what your looking for, but i had to find it so you could see what i was talking about.
http://www.cmilc.com/applications/seawall.htm

[k smith]

let us know how it works out.

[k smith]

you would probably be better off in the long run to form up and pour concrete. dig a footer about 12″wx24″d, build a rebar frame on 15″ centers and pour 3500 psi concrete. not much of an explaination, but it works fine.
years ago i looked at a product called c-wall. if its still around it looked fairly simple to install. check it out.

[k smith]

personally i dont think a six foot bulkhead is a d.i.y. project if you want it to last. call a few pro’s in and get bids. j.m.o.

[k smith]

the key to successful asphalt is a good thick, compacted base. also, i would go at least 2″ thick when rolled.

[k smith]

call your county commissioners office and ask them why its not getting maintained.

[k smith]

you have them do a level up on the pot holes and they use a good tackifier between the old and the new. i do not prefer asphalt either due to the maintenance involved over concrete, but if it is done right and you use a good sealer every 2-3 years it will last for quit a while.

[k smith]

look in to rejuvinaters over sealers. sealing is like painting and only improves asthetics it does nothing to extend the usable life of the asphalt. I.M.O.

[k smith]

concrete is perminent and asphalt will require regular maintenance. asphalt is also going up in costs due to the rise in petrolium costs.

[k smith]

if you got 3-years out of a clay chiminea, you did good. we get a new one every one to two years. we use ours around once a week in the winter and can get two years if we never move it. once you start moving them they crack. they just arent built to last. we are considering a metal one this time around in hopes of getting several years out of it.

[k smith]

this may sound stupid coming from a texan who doesnt deal with ice much, but if you used cement you could have them broom in grooves before it dries. would help when ice is thin, but probably not when it is thick.
i cant see anything helping much with thick ice on a slope other than sand or salt.

[k smith]

locate the valves and see if they work manually. if they do you most likely have bad solinoids.

[k smith]

try these:

http://bbq.about.com/od/plansforsmokers

fix it forum archives/2002/10/24/

[k smith]

try hoseing off the area after she goes. its the salt in the urine burning the turf. warm season turf handles it better, but if your lawn is green now, odds are you cant grow bermudagrass where you are.

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