Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Dapoppa’s assessment of what is happening here is entirely correct:
http://discussions.tommmymac.us/wwwboard/messages/fumes_down_chimney_331609.html
The main CAUSE however is the cap that was improperly installed over both vent terminals.
The cap is obviously not allow enough space for the fumes to dissipate properly and is having the effect of sucking the oil fumes back down the chimney because of the negative pressure caused by the AC.
Remove the improperly installed ‘cap’ and your problems ill vanish.
And get your money back from the bloke who said this was a proper installation.
It isn’t.
See my previous post where I posted a link to a picture of a ‘decorative shroud’ and asked you if it looked like this:
http://discussions.tommmymac.us/wwwboard/messages/vent_cap_331604.html
You said it did.
My comments were based on your affirmative answer…..which you are telling us is entirely different.
The ‘decorative shroud’ shown in the link above cannot be used with pellet vents or oil vents.
What you describe is something totally different.
But whatever you have, it is having the same net effect: which is to disallow proper ventilation of these chimney terminations and should never have been installed there in the first place.
Caps for Type L vents (oil vents) and Type PL Vents (pellet vents) come specifically with their own listed caps.
NONE are interchangeable between vent types and I know of no caps or shrouds that are listed for use with both simultaneously.
Don’t care who says otherwise. Chimnet Sweep or Code Inspector.
I’m a certified Mechanical Code Inspector and based on your continued description what you have installed is extremely dangerous and violates every known mechanical code for vent termination.
Unless you can show me something different, I stand on my comments and you need to remove the shroud or risk asphyxiation.
Sorry
The type cap installed is not permitted over the terminations of these type of appliances.
It is a code violation to do so.
Whomever istalled this cap needs to come back and remove it and refund you your money.
Typically these decorative shrouds are only permitted to be used over gas appliances and must be of a type that is listed for use with those appliances.
Can’t be used or installed the way the technician did for oil vents or pellet vents.
Ridge vents work only if they are large enough to provide at least 1 sq ft of opening for every 150 sq ft of attic floor area AND there is at least an equal amount of eave venting.
They also do not work if they are installed in conjunction with gable vents.
Your house fan will also not work unless there is adequate roof ventilation to allow for the maximum cubic-feet-per-minute of air movement listed on the fan.
Otherwise, it will be like trying to blow into a bottle.
Bottom line:
The ridge vent is likely not large enough to provide adequate ventilation for the roof or the fan.
Did they install soemthing like this?
http://www.atlantachimneydoctor.com/images/construction_photos/101_0102.jpg
There should not be a single vent cap or ‘shroud’ covering these two appliance vents.
Each must be capped and terminated separately.
To install a single cap over both vents violates the listing of both appliances and should be removed.
You won’t have any fires but the paint is going to peel off and look like cr**.
Time to replace the cooktop.
It’s your only solution.
On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the most difficult…this would rank about a 15.
A job for a professional only.
Pine moldings, whatever type, are limited to use indoors.
They will not stand up to exterior exposure over time no matter how well painted.
That’s why only chemically treated wood and naturally rot-resistant species like redwood, cedar, cypress, douglas fir and tropical woods are used outside.
One clear-span method that can be used is to though-bolt a ledger board to the brick walls on all sides at the 10 foot height.
You could then use joist-hangers to fasten the floor joists to the ledger.
The down-side to this approach is that the bolts will be exposed on the exterior of the brick walls.
—–
Another clear-span method would be to frame four walls around the interior on the 1st floor on top of which you can install your floors joist for the upper story.
—-What type building?
Is is commercial or residential?
From what are the walls constructed?
From what are the beams constructed?
Where do you live? (Country and State, Province or County would help)
” Will a poured concrete pad be sufficient?”
It depends where you live.
Unless you live in the deep south where there are no issues with freezing, you will be required to install a permanent foundation that extends below frost depth for your region…even if you build a slab-on-grade.
If your current shower does not already have one, you can install a mixing valve.
A mixing valve mixes the hot and cold water, and tempers the water to a preset temperature.
Mixing valves are pressure and temperature balanced to prevent changes in temperature during use.
Call your local Building Code office for your region of Saskatechewan.
They will tell you the legally required footing depth for your locale.
There are places in the northern US with required frost depths of 100″ or more, so a 6 footing depth for your region may be too shallow.
Generally speaking, permanent structures need to have footings placed below the frost level for that region, extend to permafrost, or be constructed as ‘frost protected shallow foundations’.
Your local code officials can answer any questions you have regarding each.
