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Nothing negative with CSST.
CSST has quickly become the industry standard.
I inspect hundreds of installations per year.
No problems.
Even a B-Vent will be required to terminate at least 3 feet above the stone/masonry chimney.
Get used to the idea.
Since this is a commercial project, permits will normally be required for this work, and permits can normally only be issued with stamped drawings submitted by the design professional.
The minimum lighting loads for commercial buildings and rooms within building is regulated by the electric code.
The design professional is responsible for making sure the lighting equipment will provide enough VA per SF as determined by code, is appropriate for the use of the building, and can meet the general design needs.
Consult the project design professional who should have the specific luminaires already determined on the released plans.
Manufacturer’s installation requires the finished side of the drywall to be installed to the interior of the room.
Turn it around and do it right or void the warranty at your own risk.
Do a websearch for this product. You will get plenty of hits.
The real question is whether this product (with its added cost) will provide any energy cost reductions by using it.
That answer will depend upon where you live and what type roof system you have.
If you have a conventional ventilated attic with adequate attic floor insulation, then this product will offer no benefit in energy savings. It may keep your attic a few degrees cooler but won’t save you money on cooling costs.
If you have habitable space directly under the roof rafters (such as in a cape cod style house) using this reflective barrier “may” keep the habitable space somewhat cooler thereby saving you a few dollars in energy savings.
All that depends, too, on where you live. If you are in the South where summers can be extremely hot, the prduct can make sense. In the north, it won’t help enough to be of any benefit.
The 1/2″ foam board isn’t practical either since it is required to be covered and finished and painted by at least 1/2″ drywall as an ignition barrier….and requires relocating electric devices like outlets and switches flush to the surface of the newly finished wall….and recutting and reinstalling all moldings.
Compare all that work and cost to get an R-4 with foam and you can see where the thermal paint can provide a nice alternate…and cheaper…niche.
———-But you can still often get better results simply sealing the thermal envelope from air infiltration and exfiltration using caulks, weather seals, and spray foams like “Great Stuff”….all for a fraction of the cost of foam or thermal paint.
These type paints have been around for some time and the insulating claims about them are largely true.
They contain additives first developed for NASA that will produce about an R-4 insulating value.
http://www.nasa.gov/topics/nasalife/green_paint.html
Because of the cost, however, it will take so long to pay off the paint in terms of energy dollars saved that it really isn’t worth it.
You can save more by taking smaller measurers like caulking and sealing air leaks to reduce energy costs.
Other possible causes:
-Leaking Toilet Seal:
A leaking toilet seal could be allowing water to enter the floor cavity under it. You may have to remove the toilet to inspect for damage.
-Mold From Bath Vent:
A bath vent that terminates into the attic or to vented soffits can cause condensation on cold surfaces. This can lead to mold growth. Mold can emit the type smell you described. Check the termination of the vent in attic.
-Dry Traps:
Improperly vented traps for sinks can be vacuumed dry when toilets are flushed. This can allow sewer gas to enter the bath.
-Leaking Roof Vent Flashing:
Roof vents can leak when the flashing fails. Rainwater can travel down vent stacks and wet insulation, drywall and framing lumber. this can also encourage mold growth.
Condensation is a function of humidity and temperature.
But change (lowering) in temperature is the primary trigger that will cause it.
If the walls are kept at a temperature above the dew point, for ther air mass, condensation will never occur.
See the dew point chart to indicate how even a degree or 2 in temperature change can cause condensation…:
If the walls, therefore, are kept at the same temperature as the interior air, condensation will not and cannot occur….even when the relative humidity is at or near 100%.
The issue is therefore not really the humidty level, but the temperature level of the walls…or rather the lack of insulation in the walls.
Keeping humidty levels under control can certainly limit the chances of condensation, but keeping the temperature levels of the walls constant will eliminate the problem altogether.
The fact that the original poster thinks condesnation is a recent problem may be the result of settling of insulation in the walls as some types (like cellulose) is prone to do.
This can leave large voids in walls completely uninsulated.Cold air infiltration into wall cavities due to failed caulk or rotted air barriers (like building paper) over time can also cause what may seem like an increase in condesation.
So while humidity in the air is certainly a contributing factor, it is ultimately the temperature of the surfaces and how cold they are that determines if condensation will occur…and not the humidty.
The real problem is lack of insulation, not humidity level.
Without proper insulation, your exterior walls will become much colder than the dew point for the interior air pretty much no matter what the interior humidity level.
This will cause the gaseous water in the air to condense when it contacts these cold surfaces.
Add insulation regardless of type and your problems should cease.
“Anyone have a track record with these longer than the year or so I’ve know about them?”
Yep, and the track record is excellent.
Your plumber used them correctly.
Like slip-joint connectors or compression fittings, however, they cannot be used in a concealed location.
Other wise they will be fine.
Pricier than other transition fittings from one type pipe to another, but fine.
Apart from the fact one should never apply a water based coated over one that is oil based, it may be you had a bad batch of poly which would not dry properly.
Humid conditions can also affect drying.
For best results always use an oil based poly with oil base stains.
Perhaps you can clear up some confusion, because it appears that you are installing a 125amp subpanel yet only protecting it with a 60 amp breaker in the main?
Presuming this is a misprint and you are installing a 60 amp subpanel protected by a 60 amp breaker, individual #4 conductors should be run in raceway in all locations (even through studs) OR run as a cable assembly which can be run unprotected even when surface mounted.
You can run the cable through the 1 1/4″ holes but you will need protection plates if the edge of the hole is within 1 1/4″ of the edge of the studs.
” If I simply brace across the 2×8 rafters with 4×4 beams over some kind of small concrete footing in the center of the deck will that be good enough?”
NO.
In most locations You will need permits for the new hot tub and and engineer to do the design for the deck modifications in order to get the permits.
This is not a fly-by-the-seat-of-your pants installation.
Read about deck collapses with hot tubs or pools on them here:
